I have air in my abs pump as well. I tried the bleeding tip posted above and it made it better. However I still get the noise for about 2 seconds when I start up the car. My ABS light pretty much stays on the whole time i'm driving.

While the sound isn't so bad the light is annoying. When I bleed it now I get no air coming out but the noise is still there.

Does any one have tips on completely eliminating this problem? I have a 95 LS btw.

 

the sound is NORMAL! it will always make this sound while pressurizing at start-up. pull your ECU fuses to try and clear the ABS codes.

 

You pull these ABS codes the same way you pull check-engine codes, but it's the ABS light that's blinking. Here's the sequence...

Insert the jumper, then turn on the key.
Long (2sec.) flash - long (2sec.) pause - this isn't the code yet.
Short flashes for the first digit of the code - 1sec. pause - short flashes for the 2nd digit.
Long (5-second) pause, then the next code.

(94-97) ABS DTCs...
1 - ABS pump motor over-run
1 2 ABS pump motor
1 3 high pressure leakage
1 4 pressure switch
1 8 high pressure system
2 1 parking brake
3 1 pulser RF
3 2 pulser LF
3 4 pulser RR
3 8 pulser LR
3 12 different diameter tires
4 1 wheel sensor RF
4 2 wheel sensor LF
4 4 wheel sensor RR
4 8 wheel sensor LR
5 - rear wheel lock - R/L
5 4 rear wheel lock - R
5 8 rear wheel lock - L
6 - fail-safe relay - F/R
6 1 fail-safe relay - F
6 4 fail-safe relay - R
7 1 solenoid - RF
7 2 solenoid - LF
7 4 solenoid - R
8 1 ABS function
8 2 CPU comparison
8 4 IC self-check

Beginning in '98 there's a whole different system, with a different set of error codes. The new system doesn't have it's own reservoir & bleeder.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure that the air was not the only problem since I reset the light by both pulling the fuse and disconnecting the battery and it came on again.

I was thinking about just disconnecting the ABS period and running without it. I've never relied on ABS in my driving experience but it has come in handy on a couple of rainy and snowy conditions so I'm conflicted.

 

Read the code & see!! If you've got a broken wheel sensor they're kinda pricey. But if you've got a broken wire maybe all you need is electrical tape. Why give up before you even know what's broke?

 

Forgive me for such a noob question but where is the jumper? Is it near the fuses for the ABS pump?

 

Oops, I forgot that part... Look under the glovebox, way over to the right where it goes into the kick panel. Stuffed up in that corner is a green rubber holder with 2 blue plastic electrical connectors. The green thing just holds them in place, it's not really a plug. One connector has 2 wires, other has 3. You want the plug with 2 wires, & jumper between them with a paperclip.

This is the same jumper you use when setting your spark timing & reading check-engine light codes.

 

I got the code 8-1 ABS Function, which to me couldn't be more vague.

 

Yeah, it sure is... I'll try to remember to look it up, but in the Helm book that code probably points to a testing procedure that goes on for several pages. If it's more than a couple things to check, you'd be better off getting your hands on that book. All together those checks probably take up 100 pages...

 

this is when you take your car to a service tech, if you're anything like me h: