Installing Polyurethane Bushings
Is there any step by step instructions to installing the polyurethane bushings into a 95 2dr teg. I have heard its very difficult but I just need a set of instructions so I know what to do. Anything will be of help.
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Well, basically:
1)Remove the part with the bushing in it. Follow the instructions in your Helm's/Chilton's/Haynes manual.
2)Press out the old bushing.
3)Press in the new bushing.
It's not hard, just time consuming.
1)Remove the part with the bushing in it. Follow the instructions in your Helm's/Chilton's/Haynes manual.
2)Press out the old bushing.
3)Press in the new bushing.
It's not hard, just time consuming.
I did this a few months back and my only advice is to find and use a shop press, 10 ton should work. The old ones can be removed and installed by hand, but you'll be amazed at how hard something so simple looking is to remove and install.
The instructions are pretty simple, but basic. I was a bit overwhelmed at first, but once I started pulling things apart it was pretty evident what went where.
Also grease 'em up. I went overboard with mine covering everything. I used Mobil1 synthetic, $5 at AutoZone and I haven't heard a peep yet.
Having a shop manual is a good idea too for torque specs and disassembly/reassembly procedures.
I installed the Energy Suspension master kit. I didn't have the ability to take pics, but if you have specific questions let me know here on via PM.
There are plenty of posts on here on this actually, but I wanted to add my $0.02.
The instructions are pretty simple, but basic. I was a bit overwhelmed at first, but once I started pulling things apart it was pretty evident what went where.
Also grease 'em up. I went overboard with mine covering everything. I used Mobil1 synthetic, $5 at AutoZone and I haven't heard a peep yet.
Having a shop manual is a good idea too for torque specs and disassembly/reassembly procedures.
I installed the Energy Suspension master kit. I didn't have the ability to take pics, but if you have specific questions let me know here on via PM.
There are plenty of posts on here on this actually, but I wanted to add my $0.02.
What's "ideal" can be debated forever.
I was just stating what I did and the results so far.
I know white lithium will work fine too. The old school stuff waaaay before the synthetic stuff was around. Similar temp, waterproof, and breakdown properties.
I ain't no chemical engineer tho...
I was just stating what I did and the results so far.
I know white lithium will work fine too. The old school stuff waaaay before the synthetic stuff was around. Similar temp, waterproof, and breakdown properties.
I ain't no chemical engineer tho...
Oil is thinner, it's not made for the same job as an actual grease. It works well to lube it for installation, but I would be a bit more concerned a few years down the road if oil was used instead of grease. Nothing major though.
Sorry, maybe I should've been more specific. :doh:
It's a Mobil1 Sythetic grease, the kind in a long tube grease cartridge for chassis grease guns. Although I just pulled off the cap and scooped it out with my fingers.
I agree, oil of any kind won't last more than a few days...If you're lucky.
It's a Mobil1 Sythetic grease, the kind in a long tube grease cartridge for chassis grease guns. Although I just pulled off the cap and scooped it out with my fingers.
I agree, oil of any kind won't last more than a few days...If you're lucky.
Unfortunately I'd be pulling numbers from my a$$ if I tried to estimate this for you. It depends on the tools that you have, I have air tools, and the condition of your undercarriage, I live in NE, so mine has seen some uglyness.
I measured my changeover in days, not hours.
I almost guarantee that your rear lower control arm/shock bolt/bushing will be WELL frozen. From what I can tell this is VERY common, but again depends on what your car has seen. I actually had to cut my shock, but I was installing new ones anyway. I also needed to replace the bolt from the dealer, $15.
I'm really worried that I'll scare you with this stuff, but I'm trying to set the bar properly, based on my experience of course.
I will add the caveat that it was worth it for me.
I measured my changeover in days, not hours.
I almost guarantee that your rear lower control arm/shock bolt/bushing will be WELL frozen. From what I can tell this is VERY common, but again depends on what your car has seen. I actually had to cut my shock, but I was installing new ones anyway. I also needed to replace the bolt from the dealer, $15.
I'm really worried that I'll scare you with this stuff, but I'm trying to set the bar properly, based on my experience of course.
I will add the caveat that it was worth it for me.
So what else will I have to replace? Theres no way to get it off without cutting strut? I have alot of tools, air tools, a press thats not a problem. I just need to know what im gonna have to replace and if its worth spending my time doing all this.
Thanks
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