Reccomend a Good Mod for a regular driver
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Miami FL
Originally Posted by bbasso
What about a very simple mod like TIRES? what do you have on the caR now?
Maybe...?
Also what about the brakes, do you have better pads, fluid and lines?
Maybe...?
Also what about the brakes, do you have better pads, fluid and lines?
The original tires were swapped out at about 12k mi for Michelin Pilot SX-GT's (they had great ratings from tirerack and drove about 80% as well as the factory ones). At 32k miles one of them picked up a nail at very high speed so by the time I got to the shoulder it was ruined. those pilots are no longer made so I had to swap out for the kumho ecsta's. (but they werent balanced well, it now pulls right a little on a downshift for example). so that's the tire story (well' you asked).
Nice new lightwieght red calipers would be nice, what would you recommend ?
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From: Edmonton
Originally Posted by George Knighton
[quote:622f0aa8f6="CanadianR"]For $2000 US dollars i'd buy a Mugen intake, a good header with a 2.5" collector, and 2.5" high flow cat. If you want to get a good header get something like the Toda header, it usually goes for $980 US, or if you want the best bang for your buck, get a DC JDM 4-1 stainless steel header, which goes for around $350 US.Or you could go for the best out there and spring $1400 US for a Hytech, but i think in your case it might not be the best choice. The Mugen intake is $650 US and it's by far the best intake made for the R. A good high flow cat will run you around $150 US. Depending on the header you choose, you may have some $ left for a good 2.5" exhaust. Then, next year i'd buy a Hondata S200, maybe a fuel pressure regulator, and some adjustable cam gears and take the car to a good tuner and have all that stuff tuned. All this stuff is pretty much maintenance free once installed and tuned and should net you around 15-30 hp at the wheels, maybe a little less, maybe a little more, depending on exactly what you buy; but the power curve of your engine will be much improved.
Why the Mugen header over the alternatives? I don't recall ever seeing an improvement on a basically stock motor that'd be worth the price...but I certainly don't know everything.[/quote:622f0aa8f6]
Hey George, we're missing you over on Honda Tech. No not the Mugen header, i haven't heard much about the header that's good, and it did pretty poorly in the great header test. But the Mugen intake has had a fair number of people show a 7-9 whp improvement on an R, with most people saying it felt like even more than that, but we know a dyno won't really show exactly how much of a benefit a CAI is.
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From: Edmonton
quote]
Nice new lightwieght red calipers would be nice, what would you recommend ?[/quote]
I'd recommend what Bbasso suggested, get new pads, brake fluid and maybe some stainless steel lines, and replacement rotors if your current ones are worn. Really though, if you're just gonna be driving around on the steet and commuting a brake upgrade isn't gonna do anything for you, except look cool. In fact if you don't drive the car hard the stock pads and everything alse should be all you'll need, just replace them if they are worn. The stock brakes are actually very good and upgrading them for some aftermarket brakes won't make the car stop any faster, it really just makes them more fade resistant, which you are only gonna need if you're an experienced driver on a road course. Also, most of the upgrade kits out there require you to get larger than 15" wheels so you'd probably have to buy wheels and tires as well. There are some threads in the Road/Race section that talk about good pads, stainless lines and the like, check that out if you're interested.
Nice new lightwieght red calipers would be nice, what would you recommend ?[/quote]
I'd recommend what Bbasso suggested, get new pads, brake fluid and maybe some stainless steel lines, and replacement rotors if your current ones are worn. Really though, if you're just gonna be driving around on the steet and commuting a brake upgrade isn't gonna do anything for you, except look cool. In fact if you don't drive the car hard the stock pads and everything alse should be all you'll need, just replace them if they are worn. The stock brakes are actually very good and upgrading them for some aftermarket brakes won't make the car stop any faster, it really just makes them more fade resistant, which you are only gonna need if you're an experienced driver on a road course. Also, most of the upgrade kits out there require you to get larger than 15" wheels so you'd probably have to buy wheels and tires as well. There are some threads in the Road/Race section that talk about good pads, stainless lines and the like, check that out if you're interested.
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If your still on the stock wheels, Try the Azenis 205/50-15 tires, they are sticky as could be but they lack the wet performance that most have. But the Azenis are still good in the rain as long as you drive reasonable. I don't like them cause they are a bit wide for the 15x6 inch rim and cause a vaugeness in steering (sloppy)- I went with Rotas 15x6.5 and Kuhmo MXs in 205/50-15 and could not be happier.
As for the Brake pads, I had in mind Axxis Ultimates and ATE blue brake fluid from Clobaltfriction. I could not beleive how nice it made the stock brakes feel and they are Great already! And then I got a deal on SS brake lines so I installed them and again got my brakes to the point that I would not change anything else.
As for the Brake pads, I had in mind Axxis Ultimates and ATE blue brake fluid from Clobaltfriction. I could not beleive how nice it made the stock brakes feel and they are Great already! And then I got a deal on SS brake lines so I installed them and again got my brakes to the point that I would not change anything else.
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I agree that the first mod would be tires. Get Azenis if you're in a desert climate where rain is not a big factor. Otherwise, spend a bit more for either the stock RE010, or something like the S-03. That will set you back about $500.
Spend the other $1500 on driving schools, and taking your car to the racetrack. It will improve your car's performance more than anything you could do to the car itself.
I hear there's a good one coming up at Summit Point the first weekend in June...
Spend the other $1500 on driving schools, and taking your car to the racetrack. It will improve your car's performance more than anything you could do to the car itself.
I hear there's a good one coming up at Summit Point the first weekend in June...
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From: aiea, hi
i would first say that a track event or two would be the best way to get your feet wet. as you mention, you only daily drive the car. it's quite possible that you have not tasted your cars' full potential. participating in such an event would allow you to become very familiar with the limits of the car; which i'm thinking you already know is high.
once you've seen the cars' capability in stock form, you can make judgement as to what type of modifications to go with.
i personally found that at my level of tracking ability, the stock suspension was more than adequate. i decided on upgrading the exhaust system; jdm sized header (2.5" collector), jdm length cat (must be changed out to fit jdm header application), matching b-pipe and exhaust/muffler. in addition, the other simple upgrades such as adding a rear upper strut bar.
it sounds as though you've got quite a lot of money to spend on the car ($2k/year). take your time to choose the best parts for your needs. also, pick quality parts as well. there are a lot of great products out there with an equal share of bad ones.
good luck!
kepani
once you've seen the cars' capability in stock form, you can make judgement as to what type of modifications to go with.
i personally found that at my level of tracking ability, the stock suspension was more than adequate. i decided on upgrading the exhaust system; jdm sized header (2.5" collector), jdm length cat (must be changed out to fit jdm header application), matching b-pipe and exhaust/muffler. in addition, the other simple upgrades such as adding a rear upper strut bar.
it sounds as though you've got quite a lot of money to spend on the car ($2k/year). take your time to choose the best parts for your needs. also, pick quality parts as well. there are a lot of great products out there with an equal share of bad ones.
good luck!
kepani
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From: Miami FL
So, last question before I start ordering stuff, how much will the noise increase if I add the DC JDM 4-1 stainless header ? what about a Mugen intake ?
(I really love the sound of the engine when I'm working it, but I spend 20 minutes at 5500 rpm every morning and night so I'm really not seeking the kind of sound the sport/race driver might be.)
(I really love the sound of the engine when I'm working it, but I spend 20 minutes at 5500 rpm every morning and night so I'm really not seeking the kind of sound the sport/race driver might be.)
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Joined: Sep 2002
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It seems like your car is just a daily driver without much racing. I would recommend getting HID's 4300K philips kit. Nothing else short of that.
After HIDs maybe rims and some lowering springs.
If anything breaks on the car, then go aftermarket. There's no need to spending money on things that make you go faster if you don't push your car 90% of the time.
After HIDs maybe rims and some lowering springs.
If anything breaks on the car, then go aftermarket. There's no need to spending money on things that make you go faster if you don't push your car 90% of the time.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: fairfax, va
At least an Intake! The Sound of VTEC is so damn cool. Stock suspension is fine, I wouldn't mess with that if you are just daily driving the car. HIDs is a plus, I love em', always had them, once u got them, u never go back.
STOCK vs I/H/E Car, of course the modded car is gonna have more power, theres no question about it, whether its tuned or not.
As far as the JDM 4-1 or DC SPORTS JDM 4-1, these header are good, for the cost that is, but do keep in mind, considering the road condition you drive on, especially since you daily drive ur car, becareful of speed bumps and such, which can dent in your header.
I pimp a mugen 4-2-1 header, has the best clearance ever, sits higher up from the oil pan, basically the oil pan goes first before anything hits the header.
STOCK vs I/H/E Car, of course the modded car is gonna have more power, theres no question about it, whether its tuned or not.
As far as the JDM 4-1 or DC SPORTS JDM 4-1, these header are good, for the cost that is, but do keep in mind, considering the road condition you drive on, especially since you daily drive ur car, becareful of speed bumps and such, which can dent in your header.
I pimp a mugen 4-2-1 header, has the best clearance ever, sits higher up from the oil pan, basically the oil pan goes first before anything hits the header.
