Well my front rotors are pretty bad so I'm looking to upgrade. I was looking to get the Brembo GT kit front the front (Calipers, lines, rotors, etc...) I wanted to do the back as well. Would you go with slotted or drilled rotors for the rear if any? And, why? I know the TypeR braking is super but if I wanted a bit more what would be the best route? I'm lose in the world of Braking and Suspension but I'm starting to learn a little more about it everyday. Something I think I should have done 1st (be able to slow down good before I go faster...lol)


Thanks,
Erik B

 

I would just upgrade your pads and fluid and see how that works, But if you have money to spare I only hear good things about the spoon calipers.

I have Axxis Ultimates pads, blue fluid and SS lines and can't be any happier for the money I spent.

 

I've heard the Spoonies only have 2 pistons and is not worth the money just like the Mugen's...anyone have any insight?

 

I vote for Brembo blanks all the way around with Cobalt GT Sport pads up front and Axxis Ultimates in the rear. Andie at Cobalt recommends this set-up to a lot of people that do autox/track stuff as well as daily drive their cars.

Trey has used Cobalt pads for quite a while, so maybe he can offer some more insight.

 

Spoon's are 4 pot and are argueably worth the money. However, that's assuming this guy wants them for the track.

On the street there will be no difference minus some modulation but you wont notice a difference. If you do, it's in your head.

 

Thanks guys! Anyone else?

 

Hawk pads > Greenstuff pads? for street/auto-x?

 

I doubt you want to hear this, but I wouldn't do much w/the brakes.

I use Cobalt Friction VR pads on the track, with OEM calipers and OEM or Brembo blanks...everything works fine. These are the same Cobalt Friction compound that just won the 24 hours of Daytona.

For what it's worth, in H2 Honda Challenge, which doesn't allow brake modifications, the ITR brakes are renowned as unassailably the best available in Honda Challenge.

I have never had a problem with stock ITR brake systems on the track.

 

so I should (for function reasons) just get my rotors turned and upgrade the pads? My car shakes like hell under hard braking... :?

 

ITR brake rotors are so cheap, you might do as well just buying new Brembo blanks or whatever the cheapest thing is that you can find...even at Advance Auto or Autozone, believe it or not.

They're basically all the same.

However, remember that shaking under heavy braking doesn't necessarily mean that rotors are warped. It could just be material transfer onto the rotors. Something I like about the latest from Cobalt Friction is that material transfer just doesn't seem to happen, and the rotors last a long time.

I can't explain it...it just works.