need some "go faster" advice.
08-20-2003, 11:03 PM
#1
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I've been to the track 3 times this year and as of right now I've ran 13.7 consistantly... Still chipping down the times each event I go to, I'm pretty sure I can get my 13.5-6 that I want this weekend with my current setup. My current setup is a 2000 JDM ITR in a 99 civic coupe Si (AEM 3" CAI, Apexi WS, Exedy clutch/flywheel, hondata) and I've been running M/T 22x8x15's ET Drags at 13psi.. I'm gonna try around 12psi this time around to hopefully shave off a 10th or two so hopefully that'll help.
My question now is, What do I need to do to break into the 12's... 12.999 etc.. I want to stay N/A so nitrous, etc.. isn't a option... Everything on my motor is still factory spec internally and untuned... I know tuning will help out a little but prolly at the most just .1 (tenth of a sec) so I'm now down to 13.4-5. I'm guessing I'll have to do cams and some head work like springs and retainers... though I'm lost on what I would need to shave off that 5 tenths of a sec to hit 12.999. Can someone please underline a list on what I need and what the average cost of the parts would be to acheive my goal... what do I need to spend and on what to break into the 12's? Can I just upgrade cams to like Skunk2 Stage 2's and keep my factory springs and retainers? Thanks for reading
My question now is, What do I need to do to break into the 12's... 12.999 etc.. I want to stay N/A so nitrous, etc.. isn't a option... Everything on my motor is still factory spec internally and untuned... I know tuning will help out a little but prolly at the most just .1 (tenth of a sec) so I'm now down to 13.4-5. I'm guessing I'll have to do cams and some head work like springs and retainers... though I'm lost on what I would need to shave off that 5 tenths of a sec to hit 12.999. Can someone please underline a list on what I need and what the average cost of the parts would be to acheive my goal... what do I need to spend and on what to break into the 12's? Can I just upgrade cams to like Skunk2 Stage 2's and keep my factory springs and retainers? Thanks for reading
08-20-2003, 11:20 PM
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If you want 12s you will need to give up some things like comfort. The Apex ws is a good exaust for the street but you will need a more free flowing exaust plus it is a lil bit on the fat side. I would look at a race header from Hytech or Ericks racing it will help out very much, also look into running a short ram at the track (better high end power in the real world) don't always trust the dyno. If you don't want to do that try a comptech icebox the best of bolth worlds. all of this should get you into low 13 with slicks to get the last few tenths I would drop in some cams and retune the setup with the hondata. You will not need valve springs with the spec b cams if you keep the stock redline but you might want to add some cam gears to help you find a few extra hp
one last thing stay away from skunk stick with toda you will be glad you did in the end
good luck if you want more help PM me
one last thing stay away from skunk stick with toda you will be glad you did in the end
good luck if you want more help PM me
08-21-2003, 09:01 AM
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go toda B's or if you want to go all out get the C's. you will be happy with them. get springs and retainers to be on the safe side and get a program where you can rev higher. also try some CTR pistons
08-21-2003, 03:39 PM
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You guys are awesome..this is exactly what kinda response I was looking for. I've posted on other boards and all they say is "get cams, valvetrain" which duhh, I know that, though what cams and what exactly is concidered "valvetrain"? just the springs and retainers...
Anyhow, when I go to the track I'm pretty much completely gutted. I've removed the entire rear interior meaning side panels, rear deck panels and speakers, rear seats and seat belts, trunk plastic and carpet, spare, jack, few supports, etc....anything that came apart, I took it out....also I remove the passenger seat and all floor mats as well... As far as prepping at the track, I lower the front of the car and losen my koni yellows all the way. Raise the rear as high as the GC's will go and tighten the koni's as tight as they go... I run about 45-50psi in the rear tires and between 12-14psi in the front M/T ET Drag 22x8x15 slicks... I know the Si Coupe is heavy, though it weighs on average 2375pounds on a empty tank with me in the car. My last track day I ran consistant high 13.7xx/low 13.8xx at 98.xx MPH with average 1.7-8 60's... I have really good starts with the hondata stage3 launching at 7800rpms, and I shift at 8500rpm's in every gear as I huff and puff down the track. I've been racing for a while now and I'm almost possitive if I play with my slicks tire pressure I can still shave off another 1-2 tenths finally ending up at 13.5-6 in the quarter. I've been told to raise pressure as well so I can get the high traps , though it'll prolly take away from the better 60's... (Trey's slip shows 101mph on his 13.8 and I always keep his MPH in mine while at the track since I ave. 98mph so I know theres more MPH improvement I can do since I'm around his times, slightly faster). I'll be going to the track tomorrow (08/23/03) so I'll play with the pressure a bit and see how things go...
Since I have the JDM motor, I'm at 11:1CR right now as well as the 4.75 FD, OEM 4-1 2.5" collector which you guys prolly already know. Few questions though.... are CTR pistons really going to make a big difference, and are they a direct swap for my motor? If not, I'd like to keep the block how it is and consentrate more on the head first if I can. You guys recommend the Spec B cam...isn't that a TODA product? also you're saying I can run this cam without changing anything else? Right now I bounce rev limiter at 8500 (C5 redline 8400) but isn't the JDM ITR's redline at 8900?? I want everything to run safely so if springs and retainers are needed to run a certain cam than of course I'll want to upgrade those.. I'll definately try the short ram intake and see how that works (not tomorrow) out any higher trap times... If you guys could kinda shoot me in the right direction on what exact cams to get as well as what valvesprings and retainers (or anything else thats needed to safely run your adviced cam please list it) as well as a average price that these parts go for I'd greatly appreciate it... I'll let you guys know what I run tomorrow... any other advice is much appriciated!
Anyhow, when I go to the track I'm pretty much completely gutted. I've removed the entire rear interior meaning side panels, rear deck panels and speakers, rear seats and seat belts, trunk plastic and carpet, spare, jack, few supports, etc....anything that came apart, I took it out....also I remove the passenger seat and all floor mats as well... As far as prepping at the track, I lower the front of the car and losen my koni yellows all the way. Raise the rear as high as the GC's will go and tighten the koni's as tight as they go... I run about 45-50psi in the rear tires and between 12-14psi in the front M/T ET Drag 22x8x15 slicks... I know the Si Coupe is heavy, though it weighs on average 2375pounds on a empty tank with me in the car. My last track day I ran consistant high 13.7xx/low 13.8xx at 98.xx MPH with average 1.7-8 60's... I have really good starts with the hondata stage3 launching at 7800rpms, and I shift at 8500rpm's in every gear as I huff and puff down the track. I've been racing for a while now and I'm almost possitive if I play with my slicks tire pressure I can still shave off another 1-2 tenths finally ending up at 13.5-6 in the quarter. I've been told to raise pressure as well so I can get the high traps , though it'll prolly take away from the better 60's... (Trey's slip shows 101mph on his 13.8 and I always keep his MPH in mine while at the track since I ave. 98mph so I know theres more MPH improvement I can do since I'm around his times, slightly faster). I'll be going to the track tomorrow (08/23/03) so I'll play with the pressure a bit and see how things go...
Since I have the JDM motor, I'm at 11:1CR right now as well as the 4.75 FD, OEM 4-1 2.5" collector which you guys prolly already know. Few questions though.... are CTR pistons really going to make a big difference, and are they a direct swap for my motor? If not, I'd like to keep the block how it is and consentrate more on the head first if I can. You guys recommend the Spec B cam...isn't that a TODA product? also you're saying I can run this cam without changing anything else? Right now I bounce rev limiter at 8500 (C5 redline 8400) but isn't the JDM ITR's redline at 8900?? I want everything to run safely so if springs and retainers are needed to run a certain cam than of course I'll want to upgrade those.. I'll definately try the short ram intake and see how that works (not tomorrow) out any higher trap times... If you guys could kinda shoot me in the right direction on what exact cams to get as well as what valvesprings and retainers (or anything else thats needed to safely run your adviced cam please list it) as well as a average price that these parts go for I'd greatly appreciate it... I'll let you guys know what I run tomorrow... any other advice is much appriciated!
08-22-2003, 07:14 PM
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yes the spec B cams I am talking about are from Toda so are all the parts I am listing. Youcould get some things from a differ comp. but why risk it go with the best
_Toda spec B $920.00
_spring kit $350.00
_oil pump $300.00
_timming belt $180.00
yes you can run stock itr valve srings but I would run the todas just to be safe. as for the ctr pistons its not need at this point in you build up. Do the pistons and rods when you have the time and money to have it done by a pro with aftermarket parts.
as for having you motor work do I think WWW.ericksracing.com is the best
one last thing on the header I talked with ericks today and they said they are getting 6 hp over hytech race header.
PM me if you need more help
_Toda spec B $920.00
_spring kit $350.00
_oil pump $300.00
_timming belt $180.00
yes you can run stock itr valve srings but I would run the todas just to be safe. as for the ctr pistons its not need at this point in you build up. Do the pistons and rods when you have the time and money to have it done by a pro with aftermarket parts.
as for having you motor work do I think WWW.ericksracing.com is the best
one last thing on the header I talked with ericks today and they said they are getting 6 hp over hytech race header.
PM me if you need more help