Broken Axle? (AJ, Trey, Jan)
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Shreveport, LA
OK I went to the track today for the 1st time under boost. Well to make a long story short I was running on street tires...did a lil burn out to get the water off the tire. Light went down I hit it and had bad wheel hop....I shifted and the car feel weired...I stayed on it (I'm a dick ) well it got worse and worse so I let of it just past the 1/8mile.......I pulled back around thinking I blow something up but car sounded fine. I took a lil crusie around the parking lot at the track and dam was it shaken. I give it a little gas in 2nd like at 20mph and car just shakes really bad....put it in natural and cruise and nothing...I babied it back home from the track a 30mph. What could be wrong? Did I bend an axle or is it the diff fucked or what? I can't hear nothing...
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Sounds like you grenaded a diff.???
If the car doesn't pull hard to one side when you get on it, it's not the axles, or at least not very likely. It is possible that you bent one of them, but it wouldn't vibrate at very low speeds usually unless it's really twercked, and they are usually really hard to warp without snapping. Unless of course you might have locked up a CV joint, and it's just not turning to well??
If it doesn't have a problem going in and out of gear, cause if you did shatter a diff. you don't want pieces to start to float around, or any of the bearings to go bad and cause some major havoc, I would seriously consider not driving it, at least until you have the time to take it apart.
I'd start by putting the car in the air, and spinning the wheels, not necesary to do it with the car on, just put it in neutral. Don't pay any attention to the fact that you get a little movement in the CV joint, as that is usually kinda common, you should just pay attention to the actual axle itself and see if there is any major warping, and if it shakes at ten - thirty miles per hour, then it'll be some noticable warping, in addition, check you half shaft.
If you do that and don't notice anything major, you may want to check your hub bearings, this is easily done by removing your axles and with the calipers off, or the break pads out, which ever is easier for you, but still keeping the retaining screws for the rotor in, grab the rotor on oppostie sides with both hads (one on each side, either top and bottom, or left and right), make sure your steering wheel is locked, then push it on one side and pull on the other, and kinda give it a wiggle in that fashion, and you should be able to see any play in the bearing, you should compare side to side if you are unsure, I've never seen two go bad at the same time. If it's as bad as it sounds, then the bearing may have become seperated from the race, in which case you may need a new bearing, which assuming your car is still under warranty, will be covered. You should be careful, as if it is something of that nature, the only thing really holding your hub to the spindle is that bearing, so other than your caliper holding the rotor, the wheel might come flying off, which would be really bad!!
I've seen a couple bearings go bad, but none to that extent, so I'd say it's unlikely, but on the same token, don't drive it until you've checked it out pretty thoroughly.
Last but not least, you could have just blown up a diff. which is not at all uncommon, especially if you're putting down some serious power, though I must admit, usually if you blow up a diff., it won't even go into gear, I've seen trannys that have blown up diffs, with rather large holes in the sides, similar to a rod through the block, as, gears in motion, have a tendency not to want to stop, so they shoot out in what ever direction. If you're lucky, you may just need a new diff...
Any way, I hope it's something really simple, but if you need any help, just let me know...
Later,
Aj
If the car doesn't pull hard to one side when you get on it, it's not the axles, or at least not very likely. It is possible that you bent one of them, but it wouldn't vibrate at very low speeds usually unless it's really twercked, and they are usually really hard to warp without snapping. Unless of course you might have locked up a CV joint, and it's just not turning to well??
If it doesn't have a problem going in and out of gear, cause if you did shatter a diff. you don't want pieces to start to float around, or any of the bearings to go bad and cause some major havoc, I would seriously consider not driving it, at least until you have the time to take it apart.
I'd start by putting the car in the air, and spinning the wheels, not necesary to do it with the car on, just put it in neutral. Don't pay any attention to the fact that you get a little movement in the CV joint, as that is usually kinda common, you should just pay attention to the actual axle itself and see if there is any major warping, and if it shakes at ten - thirty miles per hour, then it'll be some noticable warping, in addition, check you half shaft.
If you do that and don't notice anything major, you may want to check your hub bearings, this is easily done by removing your axles and with the calipers off, or the break pads out, which ever is easier for you, but still keeping the retaining screws for the rotor in, grab the rotor on oppostie sides with both hads (one on each side, either top and bottom, or left and right), make sure your steering wheel is locked, then push it on one side and pull on the other, and kinda give it a wiggle in that fashion, and you should be able to see any play in the bearing, you should compare side to side if you are unsure, I've never seen two go bad at the same time. If it's as bad as it sounds, then the bearing may have become seperated from the race, in which case you may need a new bearing, which assuming your car is still under warranty, will be covered. You should be careful, as if it is something of that nature, the only thing really holding your hub to the spindle is that bearing, so other than your caliper holding the rotor, the wheel might come flying off, which would be really bad!!
I've seen a couple bearings go bad, but none to that extent, so I'd say it's unlikely, but on the same token, don't drive it until you've checked it out pretty thoroughly.
Last but not least, you could have just blown up a diff. which is not at all uncommon, especially if you're putting down some serious power, though I must admit, usually if you blow up a diff., it won't even go into gear, I've seen trannys that have blown up diffs, with rather large holes in the sides, similar to a rod through the block, as, gears in motion, have a tendency not to want to stop, so they shoot out in what ever direction. If you're lucky, you may just need a new diff...
Any way, I hope it's something really simple, but if you need any help, just let me know...
Later,
Aj
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Shreveport, LA
Thanks....so a busted diff is better then broken axles? Also I had to drive back from the track which is 40 miles outta town. I drove it back like between 30-40mph. Not shacking till I gave it a little gas. Weird! It goes into all gears like normal. I'm not going to drive it (just to the shop) I don't know if Acura will cover it with a Turbo in the car. I'm not even gonna try that one. How much should I be looking at if I take it some where to get fixed (ball park) Thanks for you help
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Well, the reason I see a broken diff. being better than new axles, is that I've been itching for a Kaaz any way, but in this case, you're right, it's worse.
Acura will fix your hub bearings regardless of engine mods, I've had it done on mine, and they know mine is no where near stock. It's a safety issue that they won't mess around with. If they do give you any hard time, just point out that the wheel could fall off at any time causing an expensive lawsuit. unless you've done a big brake upgrade, there is no reason they have to deny you. more than likely, they may not even open your hood to check it out.
As far as taking it someplace to get it fixed, I know it's a bitch, but I'd do it yourself, that sort of stuff is really expensive. Though the bearings you can't do your self any way, that at most should cost you about 3 bills. As far new axles, you can get em' from discount auto with cores for like 160 bucks I think, though I'm not sure about that one. As far as diff goes, I dont know about other mechanics, but I know Acura charges 400 to r&r teh tranny, another 300-500 to crack the tranny open, and what ever the price of the diff. is. You're looking at at least a grand if it's a diff. If you do it your self, you'll probably save anywhere between 400-800 bucks in labor, and other than a normal socket set, the only specialty tools that you need is a 32mm socket for the axle nuts, and a snap ring pliers to remove the bell housing. After that, other than being really heavy, the diff just pulls out, be careful with the main shaft when you pull it out, and remember where everything went if you pull any of it out!!!
Good luck, if you need a step by step, let me know...
Later,
Aj
Acura will fix your hub bearings regardless of engine mods, I've had it done on mine, and they know mine is no where near stock. It's a safety issue that they won't mess around with. If they do give you any hard time, just point out that the wheel could fall off at any time causing an expensive lawsuit. unless you've done a big brake upgrade, there is no reason they have to deny you. more than likely, they may not even open your hood to check it out.
As far as taking it someplace to get it fixed, I know it's a bitch, but I'd do it yourself, that sort of stuff is really expensive. Though the bearings you can't do your self any way, that at most should cost you about 3 bills. As far new axles, you can get em' from discount auto with cores for like 160 bucks I think, though I'm not sure about that one. As far as diff goes, I dont know about other mechanics, but I know Acura charges 400 to r&r teh tranny, another 300-500 to crack the tranny open, and what ever the price of the diff. is. You're looking at at least a grand if it's a diff. If you do it your self, you'll probably save anywhere between 400-800 bucks in labor, and other than a normal socket set, the only specialty tools that you need is a 32mm socket for the axle nuts, and a snap ring pliers to remove the bell housing. After that, other than being really heavy, the diff just pulls out, be careful with the main shaft when you pull it out, and remember where everything went if you pull any of it out!!!
Good luck, if you need a step by step, let me know...
Later,
Aj
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Kool, but I'd make sure that's what it is first, before you have them taking apart your car...it might be something really dumb. At the very least, put it in the air, take off the wheels, and look around...
Good luck,
Aj
Good luck,
Aj
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 486
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From: Shreveport, LA
Jan racing axles or any hard core axle is not good because if they don't break it will look for the next weak link.......and snap that. I can't recall what its called but it $$$$$$$$$$$$. Anyway a update on my car. The CV joint was like in a cocked position. Well my Tech took her apart and was sure he was going to see something broken or crack in the joint. He cleaned all the wheels of took all the oil of them and to his and my suprise nothing.....hell looked at everything and didn't find anything broken. Lubbed it all back up put it all back together and it works fine....nothing was wrong with it. We were thinking that with the wheel hop it might have made them lock up for so reason. Everything is fine and car doesn't shake or anything....wired shit........what cha think?