Need help on gauge install!!!!
01-09-2003, 08:17 AM
#2
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First of all, get a manual, preferably OEM honda, but Chilton's will do. Look up your model, and you will find a chart that shows which pin is for the primary O2 sensor. I always check voltage with a digital voltmeter, the signal is between 0 and 1 volt DC. Check the voltage with the car running, if the car is warmed up, the voltage will go back and forth between o and 1 volt. All an air fuel ratio meter is, is a 0 to 1 volt voltmeter, that displays the change in voltage displayed as leds.
As far as the oil pressure sensor goes. If you are using a mechanical gauge, you will have to remove the stock sensor (in the back of the block next to the oil filter) install an 1/8" N.p.t. tee, it should be brass, so it won't corrode (you can get this at the parts store) and a compression fitting to accept the oil line, beware, if the line ever breaks, you will have a major oil leak, this is why you should use copper line. Personally I prefer an electric oil pressure gauge with a sender, that way there is no risk of a leak and it's just as accurate if properly installed (good ground!)
The only drawback of an electric gauge is that the response might be a few milliseconds slower than mechanical. But let's be realistic an oil pressure gauge is not a critical instrument, unless you have serious mechanical problems with the engine.
As far as the oil pressure sensor goes. If you are using a mechanical gauge, you will have to remove the stock sensor (in the back of the block next to the oil filter) install an 1/8" N.p.t. tee, it should be brass, so it won't corrode (you can get this at the parts store) and a compression fitting to accept the oil line, beware, if the line ever breaks, you will have a major oil leak, this is why you should use copper line. Personally I prefer an electric oil pressure gauge with a sender, that way there is no risk of a leak and it's just as accurate if properly installed (good ground!)
The only drawback of an electric gauge is that the response might be a few milliseconds slower than mechanical. But let's be realistic an oil pressure gauge is not a critical instrument, unless you have serious mechanical problems with the engine.
01-15-2003, 10:37 AM
#3
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That's a mouth full, but honestly, that sounds like a setup where you're asking for issues.
First off, Aeroquip sells the proper fitting for our cars, where that factory oil perssure sender goes, as it is not actually 1/8" pipe, it's very close, but in fact it's an English pipe fitting. If you're hard up, and dont wanna spend the didge, you can use 1/8" pipe, and just tighten it down, it shouldn't do any permanent damage.
You should NOT use COPPER fittings, they are very prone to crack, you should use aluminum, which will also not corode, and depending on whether it's mechanical or electrical, you should run a short stainless steel braided hose from the fitting you put in the block, and then run a T or Y, or what ever you feel like using. At that point, you will have an outlet for an oil line to go to a gauge, or to a sender, which by the way, the autometer senders are not all that reliable, and the couple I've used have leaked under really high pressure. Mechanical is much more reliable as far as accuracy, and as far as an oil leak, as long as you use stainless braided lines, and alluminum fittings you're kool. I've had an oil pressure gauge on my car for well over a year, without incident, knock on wood, and it's mechanical.
As far as the O2 sensor wire, if you're hooking up one of those flashing air/fuel monitors, they're very very unaccurate, and give you a false sense of security, and on top of that, they can frequently cause feedback and ruin your O2 sensors. If you're insistant, call any shop that sells and installs them, and they can tell you.
Good Luck, later,
Aj
First off, Aeroquip sells the proper fitting for our cars, where that factory oil perssure sender goes, as it is not actually 1/8" pipe, it's very close, but in fact it's an English pipe fitting. If you're hard up, and dont wanna spend the didge, you can use 1/8" pipe, and just tighten it down, it shouldn't do any permanent damage.
You should NOT use COPPER fittings, they are very prone to crack, you should use aluminum, which will also not corode, and depending on whether it's mechanical or electrical, you should run a short stainless steel braided hose from the fitting you put in the block, and then run a T or Y, or what ever you feel like using. At that point, you will have an outlet for an oil line to go to a gauge, or to a sender, which by the way, the autometer senders are not all that reliable, and the couple I've used have leaked under really high pressure. Mechanical is much more reliable as far as accuracy, and as far as an oil leak, as long as you use stainless braided lines, and alluminum fittings you're kool. I've had an oil pressure gauge on my car for well over a year, without incident, knock on wood, and it's mechanical.
As far as the O2 sensor wire, if you're hooking up one of those flashing air/fuel monitors, they're very very unaccurate, and give you a false sense of security, and on top of that, they can frequently cause feedback and ruin your O2 sensors. If you're insistant, call any shop that sells and installs them, and they can tell you.
Good Luck, later,
Aj
01-16-2003, 08:02 AM
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How dare you contradict me?!
You say Tomatoe I say Tomato. I've been building cars since I was 15, now I'm 32, I also sold auto parts for over 10 years, and I've never had a copper oil pressure line crack, look in your basement, what are your water pipes made of? COPPER! And as I mentioned, use an electric gauge if you want to avoid the risk of a leak. And as far as the pipe thread goes, you may be right, however the minute difference between a Japanese/English spec pipe thread compared to NPT is so inconsequential that it's not even worth talking about. I guarantee that NPT will seal. (5 years as an industial machine builder- applications in excess of 1000psi.)
You say Tomatoe I say Tomato. I've been building cars since I was 15, now I'm 32, I also sold auto parts for over 10 years, and I've never had a copper oil pressure line crack, look in your basement, what are your water pipes made of? COPPER! And as I mentioned, use an electric gauge if you want to avoid the risk of a leak. And as far as the pipe thread goes, you may be right, however the minute difference between a Japanese/English spec pipe thread compared to NPT is so inconsequential that it's not even worth talking about. I guarantee that NPT will seal. (5 years as an industial machine builder- applications in excess of 1000psi.)
01-16-2003, 08:09 AM
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Aj, I agree that the O2 sensor-voltage driven "Air-fuel ratio" meter is only a way to monitor the actual signal that the ECU is seeing, but there is some merit to that, since at closed, or part throttle, the ECU makes engine management decisions based on that signal. All you are doing is monitoring the function of your O2 sensor. Be that as it may, the young lad was only asking how to install one. Of the two that I'm currently using, one on a Honda, and one on a DSM, I have no O2 sensor burning out issues.
01-16-2003, 10:13 AM
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Well, let me correct my previous statement. I've spoken with many people on the subject at a variety of well known tuner shops, and all have pretty much given me the same bottom line, and that is that, although it may not throw a code, or do any permanent damage, it can and sometimes does change the actuall voltage coming out to the ECU from the o2 sensor, therefor screwing with your computer so to speak. The only real way to get an accurate reading would be to use a seperate wide band o2 sensor with it's own meter, something such as the Motech piece, or the FJO piece.
Any way, I'm sure it's not a big deal, just remember, the more you mod, the harder it is to diagnose a problem later.
Good Luck,
Aj
Any way, I'm sure it's not a big deal, just remember, the more you mod, the harder it is to diagnose a problem later.
Good Luck,
Aj
