Anyone used/ing the Muegen N1 ECU?!? Good points bad points, comp./cont. to OBD1? Do valve springs need to be upgraded?

any sciense appreciated.
dev

 

Yes u need the valve springs because you are able to rev to 9100 which is a rpm range vunerable to valve float. The ecu is an awesome up grade if you are going to run fairly stock. Throw mugen headers and cat-back and their air box, and that is how it is made to be run. If you want to do internals, you are better off with like the hondata or aem plug and play. The mugen way is a fun reliable way that you don't have to worry about the problems of supper tunning, and is a good increase in horsepower. Lots of people think it is to expensive though. It is up to you. :? Hope this helps.

 

I like it, just because it's soemthing you don't have to mess with, y 'know what I mean? Some on here though really disagree...but I like it! Yes,
valve springs r a must, and Mugen sells it for $460.

 

I'm in love with mugen :lol:

 

The Mugen N1 ECU was made to run with JDM ITR compressioin, Mugen cams, a Mugen valve train, plus their headers, more fuel, and also more timing. I wouldn't call that close to stock. It makes a good baseline ECU, but as far as just plugging it into an almost stock car, if anything, other then the rev limiter changed, it would probably slow the car down, and as long as you don't push it past like 8900, you really don't need the valve springs. To add a note, valve float doesn't occur at any specific RPM range, it's ussualy when you have a cam with a higher lift at higher RPMs, on stock cams, you really don't need to upgrade valve springs to run that ecu, just don't make it a habit to bounce the rev limiter.

Later,
Aj

 

First of all, Does mugen even offer their cams in the us? The fuel and timing are done by the ecu. And like I said valve float is more likely to occur in those high rpm ranges, thus the recomended stiffer valve springs. I also did mention the headers. So pretty much you took what I said and made it technical, thanks, though I didn't think it was needed. :wink:

 

Thanks.

 

Well, I left out a couple things to save time on the list, such as their intake manifold, injectors, straight piping after their header(ie. almost no backpressure), their cams, which if you do enough looking can be found in the US, and in fact were featured in an old issue of sport compact car, they also run 11.1:1 compression with use of the stock JDM ITR pistons, and they also run their timing pretty far advanced, which yes along with fuel is controlled by the ECU, but if the ECU thinks you have larger injectors, when it dumps fuel, it's not putting up as much as it thinks, in addition, with timing, they also run either 97 which is pump gas in japan or 100 octane gas on race day in their cars for N1 races, which means on the street, it runs a lot of advanced timing, which on pump gas especially if you live in cali, and have 91, will cause your car to ping majorly. Thankfully our compression in the states(10.6:1), is low enough where it won't make all that much difference, but either way, the point I was trying to illustrate was, that the NI ECU was made for a purpose built race car, and slightly adapter for US street cars, but the parameters it uses aren't that conducive to a street car, your far better off, for like half the price to go get like a skunk2 program.

It's a good ECU, don't get me wrong, but just keep in mind, as with anything else in cars, just be prepared for what else you may go wrong. Nothing is foolproof, and you should take as many precautions as possible. On that same note, if your switching valve springs, at the same time you really should switch to Ti reatainers.

Good Luck,
Aj

 

Wurd,

AJ, dont worry about saving time---DETAILS, DETAILS, DETAILS....thats all I comprehend!

DEV

 

Aj, Is this ecu talking about the same exact one the sell for usdm itr on the street. I was under the impression that they are two different things. I may be wrong and I would love to see that issue of scc if anyone knows the month and year.