Hi i just installed a skunk2 intake manifold on my 94 gsr and when it starts it always idles at 1400rpms and it fluxuates rapidly. It also is very jumpy on and off of the gas. I know it isnt a vaccum leak but i was wondering if maybe i switched some of the sensors when i re-installed it. ON the stock intake manifold the (iat)sesnsor goes on top and i was wondering if it went there on the new manifold? thanks

 

I'm going to say you most likely have a vacuum leak. If you want to check and make sure all of your plugs and hoses are in the right place try this http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/howto/sk2manifold/.

 

I would think you have a vacuum leak as well...

Remember to check all the hoses on the back/underside of the manifold as well.

 

I'd have to agree about about the vaccum leak,, but take your car to an autozone or some car repair station and get them to put it on and OBD to see if you TPS (throttle positioning sensor) is functioning properly.

 

i was thinking it wasnt a vaccum leak because my friend has a vaccum leak and it idles nothing like his car. His sort of idles slowly up and down while mine idles very rapidly up and down. Really it doesnt idle up and down that much because you cant even tell by looking at the tach. Also while driving at anything below 2k rpms it is the most jerky drive. I can have the throttle at the same spot and it jumps back and forth untill the rpms get above 2k.

 

When i took my car to autozone they said they couldnt check anything because it wasnt a 96 or above. I guess it would have to do with mine being obd-1.

 

Yeah you have an OBD1, 96 and up they made the OBD2 universal in all cars. i thought that autozone might have the connection OBD1. I have my own OBD from MAC tools with a connector. sorry bout that.

try putting the original intake manifold back on and see if it still does the samething. but that really sounds more like a missfire to me. try this, while it's sitting at idle, pull out the end of the spark plug wire that connects to your spark plug and see if it dies. do that to all four cylinders one at a time. if you pull out one and it keeps running the same, without getting worse or without dying, then you know that cylinder is missfiring. next, if you have that problem, take a fairly long screw driver, flat head or phillips, and stick it into the hole of the spark plug wire were the spark plug would go. wrap a rag or something around the other end of the screw driver, the plastic side on most screw drivers, and hold in your hand. hold the metal shaft of the screw driver about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch away from a metal surface. Have someone else start the car, and you should see an arch from the shaft of the screw driver to the metal surface, and it should be consistent. if you see the spark (arch), next take that same spark plug out of the missfiring cylinder. connect it to the spark plug wire and hold in your hand with a rag. Now have someone else start the car again. you should be able to see the arch in the spark plug and it should be just as consistant as the arch from the screw driver. if you don't then try checking the gap of your spark plug with a gapping tool, it should be somewhere between 28 and 32. Also, be careful not to damage the ceramic when checking the gap, if your spark plug is ceramic plated.

Or you can just buy a whole new set of plugs and try that too. It will be alot faster. If that doen't fix the problem then get somebody to check it with a timing Gun/light. If your timing is straight and on point then next step is fuel regulator right above your fuel filter, if not the fuel filter it's self.

:irock:

 

How do you know it is not a vac leak? Sure sounds like one to me.

Did you use a new throttle body gasket? New intake manifold gasket? Torque IM bolts & nuts to spec?

 

well i tightened the intake manifold bolts down from the middle out as tight as i could get them. i did it in sequence as well not just tigthen one as tight as i could get it. i used new gaskets for both the intake manifold and the throttle body so thats why i thought it wasnt a vac leak...

 

Well I checked myself by the paperclip method to see what codes i was throwing and it came up with 1 long blink and 4 short blinks. That being 14, the IAC Valve. To replace this, how much money is the part and what work does it involve to replace it? Thanks...