Intergra Generations?
Hi everyone,
Currently look'n for a used Honda Civic/Accord or Integra for my 17 yr. old daughter here in North-West NJ.
We are looking in the $3-5K range and are looking at early/mid 90's with most over 100K in miles. What range of years make up
the different geneations for the Integra?
Any specific affordable year we should shy away from, or any we should lean towards?
thanks.....
Currently look'n for a used Honda Civic/Accord or Integra for my 17 yr. old daughter here in North-West NJ.
We are looking in the $3-5K range and are looking at early/mid 90's with most over 100K in miles. What range of years make up
the different geneations for the Integra?
Any specific affordable year we should shy away from, or any we should lean towards?
thanks.....
93 was the last year of the 2nd generation
94 was, obvisiouy, the first year of the 3rd gen.
I bought a 93 Teg LS HB for $1900 a few months ago. So, you should be able to get a 94-95 for the price your looking for.
94 was, obvisiouy, the first year of the 3rd gen.
I bought a 93 Teg LS HB for $1900 a few months ago. So, you should be able to get a 94-95 for the price your looking for.
86-89 = 1st generation

90-93 = 2nd generation

94-01 = 3rd generation

for that price range, you should be able to easily find a 94-97 (depending on trim level). personally, i'd look for 96 and up as there were some kinks that were worked out of the 94-95 model years.
you might hear some people mention that the 94-95 is your best bet due to ODBI, where as 96+ is ODBII, due to the power difference and mods. however, the difference is negligible, and you're probably looking more at reliability for your daughter.
as an example, a quick search that i did already resulted in a 96 LS hatch in NJ, 104k miles, for $3500.

90-93 = 2nd generation

94-01 = 3rd generation

for that price range, you should be able to easily find a 94-97 (depending on trim level). personally, i'd look for 96 and up as there were some kinks that were worked out of the 94-95 model years.
you might hear some people mention that the 94-95 is your best bet due to ODBI, where as 96+ is ODBII, due to the power difference and mods. however, the difference is negligible, and you're probably looking more at reliability for your daughter.
as an example, a quick search that i did already resulted in a 96 LS hatch in NJ, 104k miles, for $3500.
I bought my my 92' Integra LS in February of 2003 and have loved it ever since. Wonderful car, highly reliable. I purchased it for $3400, it had 116,000 miles on it, condition overall was excellent. Anything you consider, test drive throughly and have an honest mechanic look over, even if he makes you pay for it. Something like that can save you a lot of headaches. Unless you know someone like I do, work on an Acura can be expensive.
thanks for the quick replies..
some great info. here! you guys are great!
looks like we'll zero in on 94-95 due to affordability and it gets us into the newer generation.. Though I personally like the 1st 2 G's as well.
Do you guys find these cars peepy enough for the most part?
And no, I don't want to get her into a GS-R or Type R. Looking for something simple and reliable. Also, anything in particular I should watch out for in a 94 or 95?
some great info. here! you guys are great!
looks like we'll zero in on 94-95 due to affordability and it gets us into the newer generation.. Though I personally like the 1st 2 G's as well.
Do you guys find these cars peepy enough for the most part?
And no, I don't want to get her into a GS-R or Type R. Looking for something simple and reliable. Also, anything in particular I should watch out for in a 94 or 95?
the B18B1 (RS, LS, SE) motors are very peppy. They have enough low-end power to get the car rolling and moving, and the enough power upstairs to scream down the road when needed.
Things to watch out for:
-they are a Honda, so there is potential for rust around the rear wheel wells
-if you see oil residue on the block, it most likely is the cam seal plug (black circle on left side of valve cover)...it can be easily replaced.
-it'll be old so there will be squeaks and rattles coming from the hatch and the different panels. the hatch rattle/squeak can be remedied.
that's basically it. My 94LS had 164K miles until I put in my GSR motor and I never had a problem with that motor. It started right up, never broke down, was still peppy and quick..makes me wonder why I took it out.
But good luck, you can't find much wrong with these cars (if well maintained).
Things to watch out for:
-they are a Honda, so there is potential for rust around the rear wheel wells
-if you see oil residue on the block, it most likely is the cam seal plug (black circle on left side of valve cover)...it can be easily replaced.
-it'll be old so there will be squeaks and rattles coming from the hatch and the different panels. the hatch rattle/squeak can be remedied.
that's basically it. My 94LS had 164K miles until I put in my GSR motor and I never had a problem with that motor. It started right up, never broke down, was still peppy and quick..makes me wonder why I took it out.
But good luck, you can't find much wrong with these cars (if well maintained).
thanks LT for the additional comments & thoughts...
I hear you about the rust around the rear wheel well. I am aware of that one as i have noticed that on many Hondas throughout the past few years. I assumed they have remedied that problem on the newer generations.
We are also looking at Accords & Civics...
I hear you about the rust around the rear wheel well. I am aware of that one as i have noticed that on many Hondas throughout the past few years. I assumed they have remedied that problem on the newer generations.
We are also looking at Accords & Civics...
Originally posted by aphex
Integra > Accords and Civics
Integra > Accords and Civics
Originally posted by LT6916
-if you see oil residue on the block, it most likely is the cam seal plug (black circle on left side of valve cover)...it can be easily replaced.
-if you see oil residue on the block, it most likely is the cam seal plug (black circle on left side of valve cover)...it can be easily replaced.
Not pretty but it only cost me $5 to replace.


