404's no doubt. you want to upgrade the valvetrain and why your at it, a mild p&p will do wonders. If you're going to get cams, do it right the first time.

 

N/A cams do not work well with forced induction...

If you want to go all-motor then of course you'll go with the most aggressive crower cams for your liking.

With turbo or supercharging you'll want turbo cams; they obviously won't make as much power but they'll work a hell of a lot better when you strap on that blower.

Shingo

 

For those who don't know: idle with the 404's is about equivalent to a Harley.

 

You pay for power. As long as its not stalling everywhere.

 

It will be stalling everywhere. I had the 403's with the gears untuned at +2/-2 for a while and it was not pretty. Any time the weather was over 75 degrees, it died a lot. And this was in San Luis, little humidity. Anywhere with humidity, the engine will get even less air and stall ALL OVER THE PLACE. If you get the 404's/springs/retainers/S-AFC/cam gears/FPR all at once and dyno tune it all, it should be OK. But if you just wanna throw some cams and go fast get the 403's.

I believe I'm the only one in this thread who actually has Crower cams btw...

 

Wrong. Eddie (db7 2.0) had the 403's in his all motor LS. BTW, the 404's do idle when properly tuned. Whenever you get cams with adjustable gears you need to dyno tune them. Otherwise your $xxx investment is pretty much down the tubes until then..

 

What were you running before the cams? .. and what all other mods do you have that assisted you to the 15.1?

Thanks.

 

I ran a 16.02 at Fontana before the cams. The track I ran the 15.1 at was Famoso though, lower elevation. I also drove better and took out a bit more weight. But the cams rock.

 

LOL :thumbup:

How do the JUN 3's idle?

Shingo