Immobilizer help... anyway to bypass it??!
#1
Immobilizer help... anyway to bypass it??!
Is there anyway to bypass this system? I might buy a 2000 Type R that had the ignition "attempt hotwired". They didnt actually hotwire it, they took the white peice from behind the ignition and I guess tried turning it. When you turn it the ignition turns over, but dont start because of the immobilizer I guess. They did that and broke the lock off the steering column.
Is there anyway I can start the car without the immobilizer and bypass it? Maybe a older GSR ECU that doesnt contain the IMM system? Please let me know some useful information because I can get it cheap.
Thanks
Is there anyway I can start the car without the immobilizer and bypass it? Maybe a older GSR ECU that doesnt contain the IMM system? Please let me know some useful information because I can get it cheap.
Thanks
#2
hmmm....i am kinda confused on your question, the immobilzer is in the key and the ECU, when they both match, the car will start, but if they dont, it will just turn and turn with no starting, but once you replace the ECU with a OBD2a or so on, then you can start the car because the older ECU will NOT have an immoblizer
One option is to buy a Skunk2, JUN...Chipped P28 ECU that is OBD1, but you'll need a OBD2b- OBD1 conversion harness, dependin on what you have done to your R, then when you have enough mods, you can get it tuned if you have a piggyback fuel controller like the Apexi VAFC......, unless you go Hondata which would be better if you have a good tuner and that can do hondata...Or another option would be, get a OBD2b-OBD2a conversion harness and buy a (which i have for sale) OBD2a P73 Type R ECU, which is more than likely what i would do if i was you, if you dont plan on getting your car tuned
One option is to buy a Skunk2, JUN...Chipped P28 ECU that is OBD1, but you'll need a OBD2b- OBD1 conversion harness, dependin on what you have done to your R, then when you have enough mods, you can get it tuned if you have a piggyback fuel controller like the Apexi VAFC......, unless you go Hondata which would be better if you have a good tuner and that can do hondata...Or another option would be, get a OBD2b-OBD2a conversion harness and buy a (which i have for sale) OBD2a P73 Type R ECU, which is more than likely what i would do if i was you, if you dont plan on getting your car tuned
#4
#5
Yes jdmhondaparts.com does remove the immobilizer, but once you do that, its nothing but trouble, you get a check engine light, you have to turn the switch on/off like twice before you start your car, and by the time you pay for that and deal with all the trouble, you can go OBD2a or just got OBD1 but hit me up and we will talk
#6
Originally posted by TyPe_R_GuY
Yes jdmhondaparts.com does remove the immobilizer, but once you do that, its nothing but trouble, you get a check engine light, you have to turn the switch on/off like twice before you start your car, and by the time you pay for that and deal with all the trouble, you can go OBD2a or just got OBD1 but hit me up and we will talk
Yes jdmhondaparts.com does remove the immobilizer, but once you do that, its nothing but trouble, you get a check engine light, you have to turn the switch on/off like twice before you start your car, and by the time you pay for that and deal with all the trouble, you can go OBD2a or just got OBD1 but hit me up and we will talk
#7
Civic GSR Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 256
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There was an immobilizer on my 01 GSR swap. I just converted to OBD1 and ran the OBD1 P72 ecu. The immobilizer is a bitch and i would say just convert to OBD1 for the most hassle free solution.
#9
if you still have the original key, which you should if its your car, then hold the key against the ring by the keyhole on the lock cyl. that should send the right signal so as you turn the white plastic to start the car it will start, once started then you don't need to hold the key anymore.
or call you local dealer for the brake code on the imobilizer
or call you local dealer for the brake code on the imobilizer