The official "come on ferrealb16, drop some mad knowledge on our azzes y0!" thread.
Since you obviously think you're the hottest shit since Carmen Electra took a dump on the floor, you now have your very own thread for you to spout off in and make an ass of yourself. I am going to copy various posts of yours and prove you wrong, for my own personal amusement. I will then watch as you try to come up with some lame excuse, mis-quote books you've read, redirect the topic, or talk about some guy whose jock you sweat that you did something with. Let the fun begin...
You brought this upon yourself. I was more than patient with you, and was very courteous in my warnings to chill out. But nooo, you had to run your mouth and now you're getting smacked the fuck down.
You brought this upon yourself. I was more than patient with you, and was very courteous in my warnings to chill out. But nooo, you had to run your mouth and now you're getting smacked the fuck down.
Originally posted by ferrealb16
do you know how to read? i gave him the ups and downs of straight face gears. i also told him if his synchros are worn, he can have them bronze faced, which would save him from the cost of buying new gears. instead of reading what you want to hear, why dont you read what i write?
do you know how to read? i gave him the ups and downs of straight face gears. i also told him if his synchros are worn, he can have them bronze faced, which would save him from the cost of buying new gears. instead of reading what you want to hear, why dont you read what i write?
and you are wrong again. quiafe makes an all gear lsd, torsen makes an all gear lsd. have you sat down with someone who has been building race cars, nitro draggers, alchohol boats, and tear open a quiafe lsd? probably not, but i have. it is a torsen type II lsd. open it up, open up a torsen lsd and compare...youll see they are just about identical. answer me this, does the quaife use high-helix angle INVEX gears or does it place all the gears on parallel shafts?
Zexel Torsen, Inc. is a part of the global Zexel Torsen business which is majority-held by Robert Bosch Corporation. We design and manufacture the patented TORSEN® differential. Our differential is found in such vehicles as the Audi quattro® and the GM Hummer®! Click on the following hyperlink to see what other applications our differential supports! Founded in 1984, the company was formed under the name Gleason Power Systems. This was a division of the Gleason Corporation. Gleason Power Systems was acquired in 1989 by Diesel Kiki, who then changed their name to Zexel. We adopted Torsen in the name to better distinguish what our division does as compared to the rest of Zexel Corporation.
a viscous does use "clutch packs" that sit in the viscous fluid. tell me what a viscous coupling is please..please explain this one for our viewers.
viscous differential-the viscous differential takes advantage of the characteristics of a special high-viscosity fluid. the two output shafts are connected to each other with a standard open diff and also through a multi-plate "clutch" with no mechanical contact (but very tight clearances). -Race Car Vehicle Dynamics, section 20.2.
read this book, as i have done. you can find it in your local university library.
viscous differential-the viscous differential takes advantage of the characteristics of a special high-viscosity fluid. the two output shafts are connected to each other with a standard open diff and also through a multi-plate "clutch" with no mechanical contact (but very tight clearances). -Race Car Vehicle Dynamics, section 20.2.
read this book, as i have done. you can find it in your local university library.
in fact, i bet you cant even name 7 different types of differentials, but yet your gonna try to school me? you better step back down off your stool before i become enraged and started dropping pages upon pages of knowledge on your uneducated azz.
1. Open
2. Locking
3. Viscous limited slip
4. Helical gearset
5. 1-way clutch pack
6. 1.5-way clutch pack
7. 2-way clutch pack
Oh by the way, this thread is going to stay locked until all of the moderators who feel like it get a chance to properly deconstruct your stupidity and then it will be opened up for you to comment on if you haven't started crying yet. Fucker.
Originally posted by qtiger
Okay, I'll rephrase. I tried to say that the term 'Porting' is overused and generally not true in an import application. I don't know of anyone who actually ports Honda heads. In general, you're in there removing casting flash and smoothing stuff out, changing angles, etc.
So on domestic heads, particular older domestic heads with some gentle (or not so gentle) massaging and a standard 30-45-75 3 angle job, you can squeeze out some power even if you have no idea what you are doing. This created a trend, and some attitudes of 'these are the best ports/angles/way to do this' and unfortunately when applied to an import head, bad stuff happens.
I agree that good gains can be achieved via a quality P&P job, but even from the best in the industry we only see around a 10% flow gain.
Okay, I'll rephrase. I tried to say that the term 'Porting' is overused and generally not true in an import application. I don't know of anyone who actually ports Honda heads. In general, you're in there removing casting flash and smoothing stuff out, changing angles, etc.
So on domestic heads, particular older domestic heads with some gentle (or not so gentle) massaging and a standard 30-45-75 3 angle job, you can squeeze out some power even if you have no idea what you are doing. This created a trend, and some attitudes of 'these are the best ports/angles/way to do this' and unfortunately when applied to an import head, bad stuff happens.
I agree that good gains can be achieved via a quality P&P job, but even from the best in the industry we only see around a 10% flow gain.
Originally posted by ferrealb16
qtiger, i partially disagree. you need to port a head to get a good flow from it, and you want to hog it out, reasonably.
qtiger, i partially disagree. you need to port a head to get a good flow from it, and you want to hog it out, reasonably.
The best part however, is that I don't even have to bother typing stuff out. Because rev, who is a professional machinist (not some guy who's done some stuff with this other guy who's cool...) came along and did it for me.
Originally posted by rev
1st gen is definitely on the right track. Does the Ferrea guy work there? If so he should know a few basics about 4 valve ports. One thing you do NOT want to do is knife edge the divider on the intake runner. It flows better when bull-nosed on the intake and knife edged on the exhaust - just like a plane rudder or a well prepped crankshaft. As for the valve job, if you'll study up a bit on your Bernoulli and do some testing you'll see that the air can't tell the difference between a radius and any number of angles under 15* difference between them so a radius valve job is typically no better than a good 3-5 angle valve job. Frankly, I don't see how you can run even a CORRECT 5 angle valve job on stock seats and get the right amount of space on the bottom cuts without going off the inside of the seat. Also keep in mind when talking about a 5-7 angle valve job how big the flats between the angles are going to be for optimal performance and the amount of space you need for the outer edge of the seat as well as keeping the seat height correct as well as keeping the venturi under the seat the appropriate size. Wait a minute nobody has mentioned the venturi yet...It's only one of the most important parts of the port besides the valve job so I can see why it gets missed (that must be because it is already too big from the factory)...BTW, I too love the Ferrea valves and have them on my own engine, but there are some great valves available from Kibblewhite and Manley. If I'm not mistaken there is some no-namer (Lisa Kubo I think was her name) running the Kibblewhite valves and seems to perform OK.
1st gen is definitely on the right track. Does the Ferrea guy work there? If so he should know a few basics about 4 valve ports. One thing you do NOT want to do is knife edge the divider on the intake runner. It flows better when bull-nosed on the intake and knife edged on the exhaust - just like a plane rudder or a well prepped crankshaft. As for the valve job, if you'll study up a bit on your Bernoulli and do some testing you'll see that the air can't tell the difference between a radius and any number of angles under 15* difference between them so a radius valve job is typically no better than a good 3-5 angle valve job. Frankly, I don't see how you can run even a CORRECT 5 angle valve job on stock seats and get the right amount of space on the bottom cuts without going off the inside of the seat. Also keep in mind when talking about a 5-7 angle valve job how big the flats between the angles are going to be for optimal performance and the amount of space you need for the outer edge of the seat as well as keeping the seat height correct as well as keeping the venturi under the seat the appropriate size. Wait a minute nobody has mentioned the venturi yet...It's only one of the most important parts of the port besides the valve job so I can see why it gets missed (that must be because it is already too big from the factory)...BTW, I too love the Ferrea valves and have them on my own engine, but there are some great valves available from Kibblewhite and Manley. If I'm not mistaken there is some no-namer (Lisa Kubo I think was her name) running the Kibblewhite valves and seems to perform OK.
Originally posted by ferrealb16
well personally, jun valves are crap, skunk2 is bunk, mugen is a complete joke. its not called over kill, its called doing it right the first time, the only time. complete ferrea valve train minus roller rockers/cam for around 1300. when buying internal engine components, you get what you pay for.
oh yeah, the guy who is helping me build my engine can bench grind sohc cam that gained him 27 hp.
well personally, jun valves are crap, skunk2 is bunk, mugen is a complete joke. its not called over kill, its called doing it right the first time, the only time. complete ferrea valve train minus roller rockers/cam for around 1300. when buying internal engine components, you get what you pay for.
oh yeah, the guy who is helping me build my engine can bench grind sohc cam that gained him 27 hp.
Originally posted by ferrealb16
this thread has worn me out.
i know what im talking about. i dont like to go into great detail. ive been learning engines seriously since i was 9. i dont know everything, i probably dont know as much as you, but i do know a lot. my buddy is josh, the first moderator at hybridforum that knew everything about a honda. he was taught how to build engines from ralph shumacher, head engine builder for hendricks motorsport. josh has had 3 crx/civic's that ran quicker than 14's, his best runnin a high 12, note all these cars are n/a. in fact, his crx that he has right now, runs a mid 14 with the only after market peice being a hks dragger air filter. he just strengthened all of his factory valve train parts, and bench grinded his cam. he also read thru everyones anti-p&p posts and couldnt understand, just like i.
this thread has worn me out.
i know what im talking about. i dont like to go into great detail. ive been learning engines seriously since i was 9. i dont know everything, i probably dont know as much as you, but i do know a lot. my buddy is josh, the first moderator at hybridforum that knew everything about a honda. he was taught how to build engines from ralph shumacher, head engine builder for hendricks motorsport. josh has had 3 crx/civic's that ran quicker than 14's, his best runnin a high 12, note all these cars are n/a. in fact, his crx that he has right now, runs a mid 14 with the only after market peice being a hks dragger air filter. he just strengthened all of his factory valve train parts, and bench grinded his cam. he also read thru everyones anti-p&p posts and couldnt understand, just like i.
so lets get back to what this thread turned into-a port and polish haters haven.
someone dropped a flow banch fact that a gsr head flows 310cfm's? well if it flows 310 cfm's from the factory, if you take the casting out, smooth it out, create less blockage, and reduce windage, wouldnt the head be able to flow more cfm's?
but everyone on this site is smarter than me, maybe ill just bow out because i dont have a leg to stand on when i open my mouth.
sorry for the inconvenience all mighty honda builders who are against p&p'ing their head because it flows so well from the factory they think they should kiss mr. honda's ass for being lucky enough to buy a honda. sarcasm just ran a little thick, sorry.
ponder this for a moment, fit the throttle body from the 3.2tl to a civic type r intake manifold...the 3.2 throttle body is 80mm...that will help the engine breathe, no?


