I have some skunk 2 stage 2 cams on my B16a civic with ek9 pistons.

Does anyone have a similar setup??

Just wondering if anyone can tell me what retard / advance their cam settings are at.
I will be degreeing the cams properly eventually, im just waiting to get it booked in at my local RR.

Thanks for any help, ste

 

leave them at 0. do you know how much p2v clearance you have? you dont want to go too far one way or the other and smack a piston.

 

I have around 5mm clearance i think??, i know at full retard on the cam gear it still doesnt touch a piston on the intake and exhaust cam.

Its bogging when vtec engages u see and splutters at low revs.

 

that means you need tuning to raise vtec and fix the fuel maps

 

ahh ok, any idea what is best to move the vtec point to? 6k?

Also, assume i shouldnt bother mapping it until the cams are degreed, as that will otherwise throw the tuning out?

 

bump

 

anyone??

 

You need to consider all of your variables, how much fuel are you delivering, consider your fuel pressure and the size of your injectors. Adjustable fuel pressure regulators are a must-have IMO. You shouldn't need re-mapping, because from my understanding all of the b-series computers come with a map that's good for a 2.0 liter set-up. Just manually adjust your fuel settings, and use the adjustable timing gears you have until you find a stoic mix, generally tuned honda engines run on the rich side, but nothing damaging or extreme if you do it right.

Retarding your exhaust cam 10 degrees is going to move the duration further down into the intake stroke, which has the effect of EGR, giving you something like 40% inert gas back into the cylinder, this will lower your emissions (it's how I get my all-motor integra to pass smog here in CA), but it'll kill your power and it might cause the "sputtering" you hear. Not really going to hurt anything as the piston SHOULD be moving away from the valves when it's that far retarded.

As for retarding your intake side, it's going to also help lower the compression in the cylinder by restricting delivery of fuel and air.

Another thing you must consider is that if you advance or retard your cams for the low-end, you're doing the same for the VTEC engagement, and to be honest, I don't know exactly what the timing characterstics for the secondary lobes on the VTEC cams are. You might already be so aggressive on the timing that you're really not going to notice a difference between your primary and secondary lobes after VTEC engagement. The only thing I could say would be that the more you advance on the timing from idle~4200, the more you advance further up the power band. But, I don't know if anyone will be able to just give you a number off the top of their heads.

 

Your vtec engagement point is ideally where the torque curves meet when you overlay your tuned primary and secondary lobe dyno charts. Using this method, any spikes in AFR will be eliminated.

You should tune with the cams at 0 degrees, then you make cam adjustments and clean up any changes in fuel or ignition timing. The cam adjustments shouldn't make much of a change in your final tune.

As far as what cam adjustments I recommend...every car is different, so it needs to be done on a dyno. Most cars like a bit of advance on the exhaust cam and just a tiny bit of retard on the exhaust. This increases overlap, helping bottom and midrange power.

If you did it right, it wouldn't be mickey-mousing around with a stock ECU and a FPR. It will never run as well or as safely as a properly tuned ECU, period. Without some way to change the ignition timing, especially around the vtec portion of the maps, power and reliability will suffer. Also, the stock FPR and rail is good to 400-500 whp. With the proper injector size and a way to control them, the OP will never have the need for an aftermarket FPR.

There just isn't any reason to half-ass something so important to proper engine function especially when power is so hard to come by on an N/A 4 cylinder.

 

Thanks for that info. I'll just plan to get it tuned at a RR.

So will i not need the adj FPR? im running stock injectors and the ecu is chipped and socketed already.