Recommended Enclosure 0.85 ~ 1.75 Cubic Feet

What does that actually look like? Soc. major. I hate math.

This is what I wanna do, but in my Eg. I found this on yahoo, and posted it a while back, but am now ready to do it. I finally have the new carpet, so I'm going to rip out the old and get started. I also got a heat gun for the fatmat. The heat gun made the Dynamat I put in the 67 Camaro much easier to mold, and it's STILL on tight. It's going all along the bottom, including where the sub is going.



http://images.search.yahoo.com/searc...tt=16&ei=UTF-8

Any suggestions would be cool. The sub is a Pioneer TS-W306C. No amp yet.

 

That's a very wide area you have to play with. Pretty much anything you make will work with those specs, I can't get the picture to load at work.

 

What are you asking? How big of an enclosure .85 cu ft is? Which size you should aim for?

 

Yea, whats your question

What size box to go with?

 

Yes and Yes

Ok.. Cool to know it's a wide range I tried clicking on the link, and it works for me. :hs:

My question is:

What does .85 ~ 1.75 Cubic Feet look like? If I used the spare location, how wide would I have to go beyond the deep part to create a minimum of .85 ~ 1.75 Cubic Feet?


"Um... or something" ~Butthead~

:hsugh:

 

Just measure and approximate figure its as pretty much a box. If its off by a little then its not a big deal. Do length x width x height (all in inches)/ 1728. That will give you the cubic feet. Sealed encolsures arent that particular if they are off by a bit it wont really matter that much.

The enclosure size will depend on the power. If you are towards the max of the woofer you probalby want to be on the smaller size. You will trade size for efficiency and in some cases low end extension. That is where the extra power comes in it can make up for these problems. The smaller box size will allow the sub to take physically more power before it starts moving to its max and parts start hitting other parts. If you are beyond the limits with regard to heat however, it will do nothing for you. A bigger box increases effiency and tends to increase the low end so if you are on limited or lower power it helps. You can always build the box a bit on the big size then add foam or something inside the box to reduce the airspace until you get it where you want it. If its a bit small then you can add polyfill (basically pillow stuffing) make the speaker "think" its in a bigger box. So you have some wiggle room a tricks either way. Id probably aim for 1.5 cu ft and then take away from that depending.

 

I actually got that. Thanks Once I get everything in, I'll be sure to measure before sealing things up.

 

So youre going to make the enclosure like the one in the link?

For those that cant see it, its an enclosure using the spare tire well...but without fiberglass. Without saying what a ghetto idea that is... h: You can measure the space in the spare tire well with something like packing peanuts. You fill the well with peanuts, then take them and put them into a box. Then measure the dimension of the box. Its easier than taking a ruler to measure the irregular shape of a spare tire well.

 

Why is that ghetto?


Seems like a good idea, and a fun project, though. I'd like to bump, but without some huge box in my hatch that heads can carry away. I'd like to watch the fiberglass way in person before trying to do it on my own.

Thanks for the tip on using peanuts. I acutally have a bunch

 

Because you are using the actual wheel well as an enclosure. All the wheel well is is sheet metal. And also, the way the sub is mounted on with the expanding foam is a bit :hsugh: h: