Recurring Dead Battery
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Recurring Dead Battery
8/27/06
1995 Accord LX 2.2 I4
So before you bash me for installing it, I did just to try it out. It's just a cheap $25 "HKS" kit off of eBay; decent quality actually. I read around here and people were saying to just add to the grounding system, and don't remove any wires. Well, I only saw to grounds on the negative post; one to the block and one to the chassis, so I figured a few more won't hurt any. I didn't do a daisy chain set up, just individual components connected to the battery. Here are the connections I made:
1. Re-did chassis to battery connection
2. Re-did block to battery connection
3. Throttle body/intake manifold to batt
4. Valve cover to batt
5. Right hand side engine mount w/ stock connection to chassis to batt
6. Alternator mount to batt
7. Distributor to batt
I drove it last night and there was actually a lot of improvement, started up clean, smooth idle, better throttle response, no dimming lights from the subs (no cap eithere). I stopped at the gas station on the way home and shut the car off. When I went to turn it back on, it was completely dead. No dim lights, just dead. So my guess is 1.) there is a circuit that stays closed when the ignition is off and is draining the battery and 2.) it's most likely the ground to the alternator. Just a guess. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I'm sure all of the connections are tight, since I made them yesterday, from scratch. I took the battery out, cleaned the posts, and gave it a full charge. I also disconnected the ground on the (just now noticed) the alternator tension adjuster bolt on the alternator mount, the intake manifold, and the distributor. Anyone think that there is a closed circuit feeding power after the ignition is off? I still think there is a circuit with the alternator. It has a direct negative and positive connection to the battery without going through any fuses or switches.
8/30/06
So my battery died again for no apparent reason, after a full charge. All grounds have been removed except for the stock chassis to batt and the stock block to batt. I decided to purchase a brand new batt and borrow my dad's multimeter to look for a power leak. I tested all 7 grounds, they're getting 12.6V and around 2.4A each. Doesn't seem right to have power running through the system with the ignition off. Maybe i'm measuring wrong, I'm not sure. My current method of measuring is disconnecting all grounds from the battery and leaving the positive wire connected. Then, I measure the volts/amps with the multimeter. Do I need to measure a different way or what?
1995 Accord LX 2.2 I4
So before you bash me for installing it, I did just to try it out. It's just a cheap $25 "HKS" kit off of eBay; decent quality actually. I read around here and people were saying to just add to the grounding system, and don't remove any wires. Well, I only saw to grounds on the negative post; one to the block and one to the chassis, so I figured a few more won't hurt any. I didn't do a daisy chain set up, just individual components connected to the battery. Here are the connections I made:
1. Re-did chassis to battery connection
2. Re-did block to battery connection
3. Throttle body/intake manifold to batt
4. Valve cover to batt
5. Right hand side engine mount w/ stock connection to chassis to batt
6. Alternator mount to batt
7. Distributor to batt
I drove it last night and there was actually a lot of improvement, started up clean, smooth idle, better throttle response, no dimming lights from the subs (no cap eithere). I stopped at the gas station on the way home and shut the car off. When I went to turn it back on, it was completely dead. No dim lights, just dead. So my guess is 1.) there is a circuit that stays closed when the ignition is off and is draining the battery and 2.) it's most likely the ground to the alternator. Just a guess. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I'm sure all of the connections are tight, since I made them yesterday, from scratch. I took the battery out, cleaned the posts, and gave it a full charge. I also disconnected the ground on the (just now noticed) the alternator tension adjuster bolt on the alternator mount, the intake manifold, and the distributor. Anyone think that there is a closed circuit feeding power after the ignition is off? I still think there is a circuit with the alternator. It has a direct negative and positive connection to the battery without going through any fuses or switches.
8/30/06
So my battery died again for no apparent reason, after a full charge. All grounds have been removed except for the stock chassis to batt and the stock block to batt. I decided to purchase a brand new batt and borrow my dad's multimeter to look for a power leak. I tested all 7 grounds, they're getting 12.6V and around 2.4A each. Doesn't seem right to have power running through the system with the ignition off. Maybe i'm measuring wrong, I'm not sure. My current method of measuring is disconnecting all grounds from the battery and leaving the positive wire connected. Then, I measure the volts/amps with the multimeter. Do I need to measure a different way or what?