What are safe jack points?
What are safe jack points?
I'm not fortunate enough to have access to a lift. So I use a pnumatic jack and stands. However, in order to use these, you need TWO jack point near each other. So... please let me know if there are good jack points that won't screw up my chassis:
front:
- the two side jack point under the side mouldings that the manual tells you to put the emergency jack at when you need to change a tire
- the lower part of the LCA where the shock connects to the LCA
- the upper joint of the LCA where it connects to the subchassis
- the square subchassis bar itself in between the LCA joints
- the two tow loops under the front bumper
back:
- the two side jack point under the side mouldings that the manual tells you to put the emergency jack at when you need to change a tire
- the lower part of the LCA where the shock connects to the LCA
- the upper joint of the LCA where it connects to the subchassis
- the square subchassis bar itself in between the LCA joints
- the center tow loop under the bumper
Please confirm?
I'm not fortunate enough to have access to a lift. So I use a pnumatic jack and stands. However, in order to use these, you need TWO jack point near each other. So... please let me know if there are good jack points that won't screw up my chassis:
front:
- the two side jack point under the side mouldings that the manual tells you to put the emergency jack at when you need to change a tire
- the lower part of the LCA where the shock connects to the LCA
- the upper joint of the LCA where it connects to the subchassis
- the square subchassis bar itself in between the LCA joints
- the two tow loops under the front bumper
back:
- the two side jack point under the side mouldings that the manual tells you to put the emergency jack at when you need to change a tire
- the lower part of the LCA where the shock connects to the LCA
- the upper joint of the LCA where it connects to the subchassis
- the square subchassis bar itself in between the LCA joints
- the center tow loop under the bumper
Please confirm?
Any "rigid" part of the chassis will work just fine. I have used:
In the front:
-The tow tow loops - work well, but need a tall jack to get a stand under the jack point.
-The upper joint of the LCA
In the rear:
-The square subchassis bar
I have had no issues with using any of these points. Just make sure you have the car centered on the jack as the car will shift a bit while you are raising it.
In the front:
-The tow tow loops - work well, but need a tall jack to get a stand under the jack point.
-The upper joint of the LCA
In the rear:
-The square subchassis bar
I have had no issues with using any of these points. Just make sure you have the car centered on the jack as the car will shift a bit while you are raising it.
Originally posted by ek97hatch
any of you guys know if both the tow hooks on the front of our civics are replaceable? Mines look kinda slanted.
any of you guys know if both the tow hooks on the front of our civics are replaceable? Mines look kinda slanted.
I sure as hell wouldn't use them as jack points. :ugh:
WHAT IS BETTER AND LESS TIME CONSUMING?
JACK STANDS OR STEEL RAMPS? I believe it is less time consuming and less stressful to simply drive up your car on top of those steel ramps to gain access underneath....they are available at the walmart for like under $30.
I bought a pair of jack stands but learned the hard way that they are supposed to be used together with a floor jack. I raised up the car using the regular scissor jack but later learned that there wasnt enough space on the stress point to place the jack stand.
What do you guys think?????????????????????????
JACK STANDS OR STEEL RAMPS? I believe it is less time consuming and less stressful to simply drive up your car on top of those steel ramps to gain access underneath....they are available at the walmart for like under $30.
I bought a pair of jack stands but learned the hard way that they are supposed to be used together with a floor jack. I raised up the car using the regular scissor jack but later learned that there wasnt enough space on the stress point to place the jack stand.
What do you guys think?????????????????????????
The TOW hooks are not SAFE jacking points.
The only safe places are under the side panels like your manual says.
I've used the jack point underneath the radiator, but I've been told that it's safe by some and not safe by others.
The only safe places are under the side panels like your manual says.
I've used the jack point underneath the radiator, but I've been told that it's safe by some and not safe by others.
__________________
Sponsored by: KAM Racing Sports, Falken Tires, Progress Technology, Brady's High Performance, Taggart Performance Engineering, Rotora Brakes
Autocross is: 90% driver, 5% car, & 5% CRAZY MOJO!
Autocross Help Page
Sponsored by: KAM Racing Sports, Falken Tires, Progress Technology, Brady's High Performance, Taggart Performance Engineering, Rotora Brakes
Autocross is: 90% driver, 5% car, & 5% CRAZY MOJO!
Autocross Help Page
Originally Posted by szuberi
WHAT IS BETTER AND LESS TIME CONSUMING?
JACK STANDS OR STEEL RAMPS?
What do you guys think?????????????????????????
JACK STANDS OR STEEL RAMPS?
What do you guys think?????????????????????????
depends on what u'r doin!
If you're just changing your oil, ramps kick ass and are the fastest.
One reason the tow hook is not a "safe" jack point is because the jack can easily slip from there... unless your jack has a wide and lipped jack head. What I can't seem to find out is if it's bad for the chassis to jack at that point. Plus, you'll need a jack with high extension (19" or more) just to be able to stick stands underneath the side reinforced jack points.
For good jack height, I end up having to use the emergency trunk scissor jack at the side point, pull the wheel, use my little pnuematic 16" 2 ton jack under the arm to jack up, remove the scissor jack, replace with a stand, then lower the floor jack. PITA.
One reason the tow hook is not a "safe" jack point is because the jack can easily slip from there... unless your jack has a wide and lipped jack head. What I can't seem to find out is if it's bad for the chassis to jack at that point. Plus, you'll need a jack with high extension (19" or more) just to be able to stick stands underneath the side reinforced jack points.
For good jack height, I end up having to use the emergency trunk scissor jack at the side point, pull the wheel, use my little pnuematic 16" 2 ton jack under the arm to jack up, remove the scissor jack, replace with a stand, then lower the floor jack. PITA.


