building a dependable turbo/nos setup
I have a 98 4-door LX Accord w/ the f23a1 motor. I am wanting to build a beast for it & am looking for some advice/opinions on the subject of f23/h22/h23.
I know I'll be doing the following to whichever motor I choose:
forged rod, crank, & pistons (@ around 8-9:1 compression)
titanium springs & valves
port & polish the head
not too wild a cam-setup
Hondata ECU
turbo & intercooler running around 15psi (20 max)
nitrous direct port nos (probably 150hp shot tops)
swap the sissy stick to a 5-speed
I will be using the car as a daily driver doing mostly interstate driving. This car WILL NOT be a drag-strip whore. I also plan on getting the car dynod stock & afterwards just to know how much I got on tap. It won't be used for dragracing (unless I see somebody that needs their pride spanked a bit :naughty: )
Now for my main questions. Reliability being the major concern, would I be better off keeping the f23 & sleeving the open block design or would it be more reliable/cost effective to do the h22 or the h23 since they are a closed block design?
I can get another f23, h22 or h23 either one pretty reasonably & I want to do this right & only do it once!!!
Any help/suggestions that can be shared would be greatly appreciated.
I know I'll be doing the following to whichever motor I choose:
forged rod, crank, & pistons (@ around 8-9:1 compression)
titanium springs & valves
port & polish the head
not too wild a cam-setup
Hondata ECU
turbo & intercooler running around 15psi (20 max)
nitrous direct port nos (probably 150hp shot tops)
swap the sissy stick to a 5-speed
I will be using the car as a daily driver doing mostly interstate driving. This car WILL NOT be a drag-strip whore. I also plan on getting the car dynod stock & afterwards just to know how much I got on tap. It won't be used for dragracing (unless I see somebody that needs their pride spanked a bit :naughty: )
Now for my main questions. Reliability being the major concern, would I be better off keeping the f23 & sleeving the open block design or would it be more reliable/cost effective to do the h22 or the h23 since they are a closed block design?
I can get another f23, h22 or h23 either one pretty reasonably & I want to do this right & only do it once!!!
Any help/suggestions that can be shared would be greatly appreciated.
I believe it can be done but there is big difference when you start making your daily car your race car to, thats alot of risk for example do have something to drive when you are getting all the work done that you are talkin about because it seems like alot of down time on your side.
You best bet would be H22 just because it has a little better of a aftermarket the the f series barely
You best bet would be H22 just because it has a little better of a aftermarket the the f series barely
Originally posted by adslinstaller
forged rod, crank, & pistons (@ around 8-9:1 compression)
titanium springs & valves
port & polish the head
not too wild a cam-setup
Hondata ECU
turbo & intercooler running around 15psi (20 max)
nitrous direct port nos (probably 150hp shot tops)
swap the sissy stick to a 5-speed
forged rod, crank, & pistons (@ around 8-9:1 compression)
titanium springs & valves
port & polish the head
not too wild a cam-setup
Hondata ECU
turbo & intercooler running around 15psi (20 max)
nitrous direct port nos (probably 150hp shot tops)
swap the sissy stick to a 5-speed
#2: Honda cranks are forged.
#3: Titanium springs are not streetable.


