Originally, I was going to buy a type R motor, but for 2 grand less, I'm going to buy a GSR and turbo it (duhhh!) because it makes more sense!

OK, this motor: (GSR) http://www.jdmfaze.com/engines/b18c.html

I have an extra $2000 - $2500 to spend on a turbo or a supercharger. I'd like to be pushing over 300 horsepower, if thats possible within my price range.

Hook it up with the info boys! I could use help within 2 days, if that helps....:thumbup:

 

GSR + DRAG/REV-HARD turbo kit + Hondata = 300hp while tuned correctly.

 

most likely if you want to have 300 hp you will need to build your motor to prepare it for high boost from a turbo. You could easily spend 2 grand to just build the motor. Or you could search around for a cheap turbo kit and possibly hit around 250hp with stock internals and a properly tuned engine, people sell some cheap turbo setups on www.thepartstrader.com every once in a while, just make sure you know what youre getting.

 

I would get a turbo at the junk yard and make a custom manifold... Its pretty easy if you have SOME metal working skill and know how to WELD. I would have to agree with Sportmode, if you want to make 300 HP AT ALL! Wiether it be N/A or FI you need to have a burly ass motor. Check out the DART blocks! I hear GEM (Golden Eagle) Sleeves are sinking But dart has some burly ass blocks! $2000 for a closed deck B18 or B20. Be realistic dude! If you want to make that kinda power and not watch pistons fly through your hood, you gonna need one of these.

 

Let me support my previous statement with these thoughts.

~He said 300hp, he didn't say weather that was wheel HP or crank HP. Most STOCK LS engines with decent tuning will put down 230~260whp at 10~12psi. Now there is about a 12% drivetrain loss of power in FWD cars. With 250whp that equates to 300hp at the crank. So there ya go. This is on a measly LS engine with it's flow resticted head and piss poor cam profiles.

~Most bolt-on turbo kits like DRAG, REV-HARD, Max-Rev, ect will easily produce in excess of 270whp on a properly tuned GS-R engine. That equates to over 300 crank HP. The combination of VTEC head and higher compression gives way to more HP over an LS engine. Though the LS will have a *bit* more torque.

~ This is all running conservative tuning and being freindly to the life of your engine. Bumping up the timing and leaning out the fuel under boost will produce more power to a certain point, until it detonates and blows piston chunks out the oil pan. Also i'm speaking from the point of using a standalone where you have decent control over your fuel and timing maps, not these retarded FMU/Big fuel pump setups.

~It's not entirely necessary to "build" your engine if you want over 300hp. I've seen a certain person run 20psi on a stock block LS engine and make nearly 300whp. The best advice you'll ever hear is this "Tune your car"

 

As far as a turbo goes... I wouldnt buy a taxed ass one off the internet or from a shop. Take your lazy ass down to the pick and pull and find a good one and rebuilt it. There is one off a mid 80's 3.2L 5cyl diesel mercedes benz that can put out a good 12-16 Psi... You could pick it up for like $100... I believe its made by garret, I'll check on that and let ya know. You might want to grab the Bosh fuel pump and bosch fuel filter off the motor too. They are on the other side of the motor.

 

"~He said 300hp, he didn't say weather that was wheel HP or crank HP. Most STOCK LS engines with decent tuning will put down 230~260whp at 10~12psi. Now there is about a 12% drivetrain loss of power in FWD cars. With 250whp that equates to 300hp at the crank. So there ya go. This is on a measly LS engine with it's flow resticted head and piss poor cam profiles.
"

I just always asume people are talking about wheel horsepower, cause that is all i ever talk about. WHP is really the only thing that matters anyway, power that doesnt make it down to the wheels is useless.

If it is Hp at the crank that you are talking about then 300 is achievable with stock internals, but probably not for your price range. You might get away with a used turbo kit for around 2 grand but unless you are confident enough to install it your self you are gonna need to pay for an install and plan on spending more money on tuning.

 

Yup, just bolting on a $2K turbo kit isn't gonna net you 300 wheel or crank HP. It'll take some tuning and some finesse to be achievable. If you're a N00b to turbo's or F/I in general you should set your sights to the 200whp mark first. Thats more easily achievable if you're just starting. Just bolting on a turbo and taking off down the road is a good way blow **** up.

 

BUY A DRAG GEN 3 TURBO KIT . 110 PONIES MORE AT THE WHEELS. AND ITS REASONABLLY PRICED

 

don't forget to mention that without plenty of knowledge of turbos and their complete systems, custom building a setup is nearly impossible, or at best, a bomb waiting to explode...if you don't know a lot about it, then get a kit or a really smart friend that will work for free.....and a t27 off a first gen turbo coupe would be a better fit and a more performace oriented turbo to build a setup with....maybe even a t3, but to properly rebuild it, you have to send it off to have the shaft balanced and will normally end up spending $50 less total and taking a lot longer...$250 or so for a complete professional rebuild