I have a 94 integra with a b18b1 and i am about to purchase a b16a head to do a lsvtec swap and i know i need to run a line from the block to the head for oil pressure and will need to get a new ecu and jumper harnest but im not sure if thats all i need to do. is there anything else that i will need to get and how do i wire the vtec solenoid to my ecu. Sorry about all the questions just new to the honda world and im extremely interested in learning more and even goin to school but just wanted to be able to keep up with a couple of my buddys.

 

check this out, should help alot. it goes for b18 also
http://honda.hybrids.jp/b20tech/

 

 

whats up Nate, im Craig! I can totally help you out with that stuff! Give me a day or two to dig up my old paper work iv been collecting on all this crap for 15 years almost! I'll talk to you soon, just check for messages every few days! later man!

 

Run a T off of your oil pressure sending unit, get a 1/8" NPT line and connect it from oil pressure switch to the 1/8" NPT fitting in the back of the head near the VTEC solenoid.... it's a no brainer dude.

VTEC solenoid...

 

whoever says a LS/VTEC is unreliable is totally misinformed. What happens is people skimp when building them and THAT causes the problems. The biggest things people skimp on are not really that expensive, but they do it anyway. First people try to run the LS (B18B) water pump, this pump has 19 teeth, when you need the GSR water pump that has 22 teeth. This allows better cooling at the higher RPM range where the VTEC allows the engine to go, it is a $150 part. The next thing is they try to make their own dowel pins, instead of getting a complete gasket/dowel pin set from a place like Golden Eagle. Their kit has the head gasket for the swap, a regular LS, or GSR gasket has to be modified to block certain oil orifices for the head not to leak. This leads to the other major thing, they fail to take the head and block to a machine shop to get surfaced so they seat properly. And last but not least they seem to forget to replace the timing belt, and oil pump. All these thing will lead to failure of the engine, causing people to call them unreliable. I am proof that if it's built right it will last. I have a 99 civic coupe with a JG Engine Dynamics bottom end (B18B1) and a fully built Skunk2 head from my old B16, making a LS/VTEC engine. It is running a Peakboost GT35R turbo kit, snow perfomance methanol, AEM EMS, LSD, and other stuff (too much to write) and at 40 psi it makes a little over 700 fwhp. It runs 15 psi for daily driving and makes 419 fwhp and has been this way for over 2 years. I have had no problems, except for traction, and it has never let me down. As for the power it makes, a stock GSR puts down right at 145-150 fwhp on a dyno, and a basic LS/VTEC will make around 175 on the same
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