dx2gsr

No, its not me trying to get my mind straight on what I want to do this time. I finally made up my mind BUT on the other hand, my buddy has a 94 Civic HB and wants to go all motor. He doesnt exactly know how to build up the motor. Being how I would be going FI and still kinda new to this, I didnt know if my setup would be the same as his so I came to HAN for knowledgable info. I suggested the usual i/h/e,some UD pulleys and cam gears. I would imagine a 12.0-12.5:1 CR would be ideal correct? If so, what will he have to do to hold that pressure to the block? I think he would have to use strong connecting rods. Would he have to use a block guard or something like that? Any particular cams? Basically what he is looking for is to build up his motor strong as a reliable daily driver(kind of an oxymoron) but will use it for drag if need be. I tried talking him into FI but he is stuck on all motor so whatever floats his boat. Any suggestions for his setup? He wants to run 12.5-13 sec in the 1/4 if that helps

MrFatbooty

Skip the block guard.

12.5-13 seconds in the quarter mile will not happen with a 1.6-liter normally aspirated motor unless you have drag slicks mounted.

To build a B16 I would consider the following:

AEM CAI
70 mm throttle
skunk2 intake manifold
skunk2 Stage 1 cams
ITR outer valvesprings, Portflow inner springs
titanium retainers
adjustable cam gears
good head porting job
12:1 CR pistons
2.5" collector header
2.5" cat
2.5" exhaust system, your choice of muffler

To break into the 12's you're going to need to sleeve the block and bore it to 84 mm, along with some other crap.

qtiger

I'm right behind Mike's suggestions for the b16. Without an engine swap, that's probably your best bet for relatively cheap power. Should end up with a little over 200 whp.

However, here's what I would do:

Purchase a b18c1 shortblock. All it needs to have is a crank.

Bottom end:
Eagle or Crower rods.
CTR pistons.

Use the B16 top end with:
Skunk2 Stage 2 cams
Skunk2 or ITR/Portflow valvetrain
Somebody's TI retainers.
Adjustable cam gears.
Good P&P job.

Use B16 tranny with new clutch & lightened flywheel.

All that combined with a good exhaust system, Skunk2 intake manifold, 70mm throttle body, and good intake.


Reason I'd go with a b18c1 bottom end is simply because it should cut down on downtime (if you do bottom and top ends seperately) as well as give you a bit more torque & horsepower. If you're feeling really special you can sleeve out the C1.

dx2gsr

wow..that was quick. thanx for the suggestions. He said it was cool to use drag slicks to reach that. He is going to buy two other rims to mount drag tires. Just a few questions....the CTR pistons will fit in the B18C1 bottom end? I guess you learn something new everyday afterall. qtiger, when you say somebody's TI retainers, what does that mean? With the P&P job, should it be like a 3 angle or 5 angle job? Would the sleeving do anything as far as HP gains? And one more question, MrFatBooty, when you say ITR outer valvesprings and Portflow inner springs, what does that mean? Hey guys, thanx a lot for the help. My buddy is really impressed with the suggestions you are giving him. Keep up the good work.

qtiger

Yep. Same bore, different stroke. Though obviously, if you resleeve the block you'll need pistons to match the larger bore.

Well, I'd buy the matching set to go with your springs, but I gave you a couple options on valvetrain. And obviously there's other cams you could choose, too.

That's between you friend and his P&P shop. Personally, I believe that a 3 angle does the job nicely, but a P&P is a matched package and I would take the advice of your porter. Just choose a good one.


Yeah, you should see similar gains in horsepower and torque. I've never seen a back-to-back dyno of 1.6L and 2.0L without other modifications, so I can't guess on what that number is.

dx2gsr

Hey fellas!! This is Stephen under my buddy's name,dx2gsr, and I would like to say thanx for the help. But I still have a few more questions to ask if you dont mind. I'll be setup with HAN once I get my computer fixed. OK, so would the CTR pistons be better than ones that have a 12.1:1? Do they make CTR pistons in a bigger size to fit the bigger bore? And if I were to go with skunk2 stage 2 cams, the ITR or Portflow valvetrain will do just fine or do I need to get the skunk2 valvetrain? Does the B16 head bolt right up to B18C1 block? again, thanx for the help. I'll be on and off dx2gsr, depending on when I can use his computer.

qtiger

Well, not "better," there's lots of aftermarket pistons you could choose from. CTR will probably be the least expensive.

Oh, and CTR pistons will give you a 12.1:1 compression ratio on a b18c1 block with a b16 head. On your block it would only be 10.8:1.

No. You could get CTR pistons slightly larger than OEM size, in case you got your stock sleeves bore & honed to fix some damage, but not big enough for a 2L engine. You'd be looking at some aftermarket stuff then. JE, SRP, Arias, Wiseco.

If money is real tight, the ITR/Portflow combo will do you just fine. However, Skunk2 valvetrain would probably be best. That way if there is a problem, there aren't any warranty issues.

Yep. So does the transmission.

dx2gsr

wow...that cleared up a lot of misunderstanding:yay:...i really appreciate all the help guys!!:bigok: i'm off to start ordering my motor swap with the left over money i had saved up for a car:naughty:

qtiger

I just reread the first post and I'm not sure why I was under the impression that your friend already had a b16. :eh: Anyways, all that stuff still holds true, you just gotta decide between a b16 swap and a b18c1 swap.

MrFatbooty

Thanks for answering all the questions in my absence.

Here's just one last thing to clear up:
Each valve has two springs, one inside the other. You use the outer springs from an ITR and beefed up inner springs sold by Portflow. This combo works pretty well, or you can just go with the skunk2 springs.