B18c1 Vs. B18c5
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: ca
B18c1 Vs. B18c5
ok everyone has been telling me its a "waste of money to get the b18c5." so will someone please tell me the difference between the two, besides the higher compression ratio. i was thinking of getting a turbo later down the road and people say its a waste to get the b18c5. well couldnt i just lower the compression when i got the turbo? wouldnt a low compression b18c5 be more powerful than a b18c1 when thier both on boost? because of the better cam etc..
I hate you too
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 260
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From: Racine, WI
Turbo C1 is better then turbo C5, unless you wanna spend uber money. Go with the C1 and have fun with it for a while, then get your turbo kit, rods, pistons, intake manifold and fuel system. if you want a good turbo set up, heres the best setup I can think of, its in another thread but heres a little copy and paste:
You said you wanted reliable, so LS/VTEC is almost out of the question. I could ad why, but this article sums up my feelings about it.http://www.distributedworks.com/ind...rce/lsvtec.html
Now if you want to do this right and arent a fan of rebuilding your entire block, heres a pretty nice streetable setup, and It'll give you way more then 300 to the wheels.First start with USDM GSR block. Hers a list from the bottom up:
Stock Crank- Machine work, balance, polish. Might not want to knife edge it cuase under boost the structural integrity will be gone.
Rods- Eagle's are good, Crowers better. You will be able to get away with Eagles just fine.
Pistons- 82mm JE 9:1 forged. Good bore, good piston, nuff said
Block- resleeve with Golden Eagle sleeves and block guard. this is gonna be the key part. We have a open deck design were working with so we NEED to strengthen it.
Head- entire valve train needs to be replaced. I went with Skunk 2, just fine for me. Stock cams, but with adj. gears. Port it, port match the manifold, three angle valve job, polish the combustion chambers. Go with a skunk 2 or ITR intake manifold, better flow.
Turbo- Get a custom kit made. Drag blows, ever since last year their parts have been made in Taiwan to save them money. Find someone to make a exhaust manifold and down pipe. We sell maniflod, downpipe and Turbonetics turbo for round $1,700.
Buyt the rest of the pieces seperate. IT may be a little more money, but you have exactly what you need and want.
For the turbo itself, go with a T4, with stage 3 wheel, with a 50 trim and 63AR hot side. It will be very streetable, and make really good power throughout the range.
Fuel- If you must save money, go with a Vortech fully adj. fuel system, dont get the 12:1 it wont be adequit. Get an S-AFC to tune that. An MSD ignition with the boost retard is gonna be a good thing too. If you can afford it the AEM stand alone will be the best computor to go with, but not everyone has money like that. For injectors go with 550 cc, they flow 42% better tehn 440 and are only a little bit more money.
This is a lot of stuff. IF you can afford it, great, cause this is the right way to turboa HOnda. If you cant, I suggest saving your money so you dont spend it twice when you have to rebuild your blown, stock motor. As far as boost goes, with everything BUT the AEM computor, you could run 14 psi everyday and almost make your goal. If you get rid of the Vortech and S-AFC and replace it with the AEM, you could run 18-20 pounds no problem. Just find someone to tune it and I could guarentee close to 400 hp at the wheels, with 93 octane.
good luck
p.s. Dont forget a missing link. It tricks your computor to think everything is ok. When you r engine reads preassure at greater then 11 lbs. it throws a code, this just trickes it.
You said you wanted reliable, so LS/VTEC is almost out of the question. I could ad why, but this article sums up my feelings about it.http://www.distributedworks.com/ind...rce/lsvtec.html
Now if you want to do this right and arent a fan of rebuilding your entire block, heres a pretty nice streetable setup, and It'll give you way more then 300 to the wheels.First start with USDM GSR block. Hers a list from the bottom up:
Stock Crank- Machine work, balance, polish. Might not want to knife edge it cuase under boost the structural integrity will be gone.
Rods- Eagle's are good, Crowers better. You will be able to get away with Eagles just fine.
Pistons- 82mm JE 9:1 forged. Good bore, good piston, nuff said
Block- resleeve with Golden Eagle sleeves and block guard. this is gonna be the key part. We have a open deck design were working with so we NEED to strengthen it.
Head- entire valve train needs to be replaced. I went with Skunk 2, just fine for me. Stock cams, but with adj. gears. Port it, port match the manifold, three angle valve job, polish the combustion chambers. Go with a skunk 2 or ITR intake manifold, better flow.
Turbo- Get a custom kit made. Drag blows, ever since last year their parts have been made in Taiwan to save them money. Find someone to make a exhaust manifold and down pipe. We sell maniflod, downpipe and Turbonetics turbo for round $1,700.
Buyt the rest of the pieces seperate. IT may be a little more money, but you have exactly what you need and want.
For the turbo itself, go with a T4, with stage 3 wheel, with a 50 trim and 63AR hot side. It will be very streetable, and make really good power throughout the range.
Fuel- If you must save money, go with a Vortech fully adj. fuel system, dont get the 12:1 it wont be adequit. Get an S-AFC to tune that. An MSD ignition with the boost retard is gonna be a good thing too. If you can afford it the AEM stand alone will be the best computor to go with, but not everyone has money like that. For injectors go with 550 cc, they flow 42% better tehn 440 and are only a little bit more money.
This is a lot of stuff. IF you can afford it, great, cause this is the right way to turboa HOnda. If you cant, I suggest saving your money so you dont spend it twice when you have to rebuild your blown, stock motor. As far as boost goes, with everything BUT the AEM computor, you could run 14 psi everyday and almost make your goal. If you get rid of the Vortech and S-AFC and replace it with the AEM, you could run 18-20 pounds no problem. Just find someone to tune it and I could guarentee close to 400 hp at the wheels, with 93 octane.
good luck
p.s. Dont forget a missing link. It tricks your computor to think everything is ok. When you r engine reads preassure at greater then 11 lbs. it throws a code, this just trickes it.
Wannabe yuppie
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 25,918
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From: Madison, WI
Generally people say that "it's a waste" to get a C5 because the motors would be built anyway and the extra goodies included with the C5 will be superceded by new mods.
If you're trying to figure out what sort of setup to go with, then I would recommend thinking up how fast you want your car to be and how much money you would like to spend.
If you're trying to figure out what sort of setup to go with, then I would recommend thinking up how fast you want your car to be and how much money you would like to spend.