this question seems like too broad. but i do need some detials about building my engin.
92 gsr, so far, this car got:115,000miles. t4 turbo,delta gate, i/c,votech FPR, upgraded fule pump, RC310 injectors, S-afc,turboxs mannul boost contorler.
the question is what do i need to do to run 12psi safely. i know this has to do with reinforce the engin, so what i need to prepare. i expect some detail info, such as compression ratio of the new pistons, which brand is more cost effective than other brand......
thanks

 

You don't always need "X psi" when building up an engine, so let's start a little differently.

What are your power goals?

What will the car be used for?

How much are you willing to spend?

How reliable do you want it? [daily driver?]

 

No offense, but if you have to ask if it's safe to run X amount of boost, it's probably not safe for you to. 12 lbs is a lot of wear and tear on a high compression engine. It would take a LOT of tuning for it to be safe, and still theres no gaurantee.

 

Answering all of 1stgen's questions would be a good place to start.

Also, FMU setups aren't very "safe" IMO. I'd run a stanralone or at very least an AFC/450cc hack. Either of those would provide you with a more reliable fueling solution the the FMU.

SiR-DC2: Before you open your mouth make sure you know what you're talking about. A 92 GS-R is NOT a high compression engine. 92-93 GS-R's have the B17A which is a slightly stroked B16, and it runs a 9:1 compression ratio. It's a very good engine to boost if you can get ahold of one. It has a very friendly to turbo C/R, VTEC, and nice R/S ratio.

 

I agree about the standalone. You can run 12lbs of boost on your stock internals, but your tuning should be spot on.

 

To add my experience, you shouldn't run any boost without dead-on fuel/spark curves. I ran 6psi for about two months with the DragIII setup before the oil scavenging rings superheated and expanded to the point that they wore grooves in the cylinder. Fuel and spark are paramount, but you also need to take your bottom end into consideration. The question of whether you can run a stock bottom end with boost isn't as important as how long do you want to run that stock bottom end before you have a catastrophic (lifting the head, cracking the head, cracking the block, bending a rod, exiting the rods through the cylinders, etc.) failure.

As to specific brands, compression ratios, etc... everyone has their own opinions. I can say that my 8.8:1 Wiseco pistons are alright, but they're noisy. H-beam rods don't tend to handle the same amount of hp that I-beam rods do. I'm running Crower H-beams because they were half the price of the I's. I think Paulter or someone makes an X-beam rod too that are supposed to be pretty decent. All-in-all, don't skimp if you don't have to. Buy the best stuff you can and make sure its installed and dialed in correctly, and you'll be alright.

 

Manleyyyyyyyyh:

 

thanks for all of your opinions. i learn useful knowledge while i read the posts. according to 1stgencrxer, i want to have 300hp and reliable for daily driving, i am willing to spend another $2000 on this project. so what should i do to acheive this goal?thanks

 

Maybe I don't know anything... maybe it's totally possible with what your trying... but 300hp seems a bit of a streach. Most setups I read about here stay under 200hp with n/a. A couple with forced induction get upto 210-240hp.

Anyone think that he may need a shot of n2o to get up there?

 

No, it can be done with just a turbo and a good setup with spot-on tuning.

I'm thinking on this now and I'll come back with some ideas.

Is that $2000 extra total? or money that can be spent after the turbo kit? Either way it sounds a little low for your goals.