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86mm pistons...

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Old Nov 15, 2002 | 02:02 PM
  #11  
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GE has a deckplate available now if you guys really want to increase stroke that badly.
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Old Nov 16, 2002 | 10:49 AM
  #12  
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alright... im kind of confused... dont 84mm pistons in a ls make a 2.0 liter... thats a .2 liter gain from 2mm, So how is it with 86 it would only make 2.06
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Old Nov 16, 2002 | 11:10 AM
  #13  
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stroker kits are :nono: :thumbdown
if youre going 86mm, u should get a B20 block and bore that out to 86mm....otherwise, just keep the B18B bored out to its current 84
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Old Nov 16, 2002 | 11:27 AM
  #14  
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Originally posted by DvSrOmE
alright... im kind of confused... dont 84mm pistons in a ls make a 2.0 liter... thats a .2 liter gain from 2mm, So how is it with 86 it would only make 2.06
Stock LS bore is 81mm. 84mm bore yields 1973cc displacement. Technically, B20s only displace 1.973L, not an even 2L. B18A/B's displace 1834cc, so going from 81mm to 84mm bore is a 139cc or .139L increase in displacement. 86mm bore yields 2068cc displacement. Going from 81mm to 86mm is 234cc or .234L increase in displacement.
Originally posted by DB7 2.0
stroker kits are :nono: :thumbdown
if youre going 86mm, u should get a B20 block and bore that out to 86mm....otherwise, just keep the B18B bored out to its current 84
Stock B20 sleeves bored to 86mm would be dangerously thin. Stock LS bore is 81mm.
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Old Nov 16, 2002 | 02:32 PM
  #15  
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sorry i just looked at my original post, and noticed that i didnt mention my itr head. Does that help? or do i still need to deshroud the head? Im not worried that much about costs cuz my cousin can get me the parts for decently cheap and seeing im building the engine i rather just do it right for the second time. And the head has ss springs, tit. retainers. Im questions the valves do to nitrous in the future and rather replace them now then have to replace the hg again. thanks for your replies
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Old Nov 16, 2002 | 02:44 PM
  #16  
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If you want to run 86mm bore, you're going to need to deshroud the head. Without deshrouding the head, you can get away with 84mm bore.
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Old Nov 17, 2002 | 07:53 AM
  #17  
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Hrmm...there's a lot of misinformation flying around.
*Stroking an engine changes the displacement and your compression. You get displacement from the equation: (bore)x(stroke). You get compression from the equation (volume@BDC)/(volume@TDC). If you increase the volume at BDC but keep the volume at TDC the same, you'll increase compression.
*Stroking an engine isn't "bad". V8's and V6's do it all the time, as do I4's (hello LS!). You just have to sit down beforehand and figure out the equations I just mentioned, and ensure that you're not going to risk detonation by increasing compression too much. If you do, lower CR pistons are your answer. However, stroking isn't suitable for high-revving cars. You increase the speed (think of it as mph for your pistons) of the reciprocating assembly enormously. You'll increase torque, but decrease high rpm potential.
*Overboring an engine isn't the be-all, end-all answer to increasing displacement and horsepower either. When you increase the bore, you don't have to worry about the compression. Obviously BTC and TDC volume increase proportionally. You do run into a problem with losing piston dwell at TDC and BDC though. Roughly this translates into less torque, but the potential to rev higher and get more power there. (The pistons don't travel nearly as far, so you decrease the G load on them and everything they're attached to.)


That all being said, if you are intent on doing anything of this nature, go buy lots of books. Study, study, study. Learn everything you can about the engineering aspect of putting an engine together. Primarily the "why's" and "how's". "Why does this do that?" "How does changing this, effect that?" When you've got a good solid understanding of it all, then sit down and decide what you want, and how you want to go about getting it.

[edit] Nothing but the last paragraph applied to your original questions, sorry. Go down and learn about what I said (the how's and why's of engine designing). There's a ton of great books out there, just don't be scared when most of them talk about chevys, fords, dodges and Indy cars. Your engine isn't much different from theres, both are still subject to all of the same rules. Your oversize valve question deals more with head flow, so your best bet is going to be talking to someone who does headwork. Bigger valves aren't really helpful on honda passenger car engines, because it puts the edge of the valve closer to the wall of the cylinder. This disrupts flow, collapses the cone, etc etc etc... read for yourself. With much bigger pistons, and a head thats been thoroughly massaged, you'll want to rethink bigger vavles, because you may or may not have that problem. So... educate yourself, then talk with the experts. [/edit]
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