if u run a NOS setup after the blower, there is a possibility it wont mix right since its so close to the intake ports on the head.

If there was a way to run like 4 miniature jets to each one, that could possibly do it, but just squirting after the blower wouldnt let it mix right and distribute evenly between all the cylinders.

Thats what I would believe, but im not a NOS expert, so someone prove me wrong or lets try and make an efficient 30 shot setup with the best balance of power, cooling, consistent output and reliability.

 

also running NOS after the blower would be hard to tune i believe, since there are such different intake temps with the JRSC due to heatsoak occuring by driving hard for long amounts of time.

If the air is pressurized at 6psi, and the manifold is still cool, when u would shoot the NOS in, it would cool the intake charge to a certain extent creating colder denser air which needs additional fuel compared to the standard percentage mix of N20 to Fuel that is added. Now if the manifold is hot, there are hotter intake temps going in, and when I'd spray the n2o in it would change the intake charge temperature a certain amount, but not the same amount as it would compared to if there had been no heatsoak, so i cant predict how much extra fuel to add for the cooling effect.

That is what's causing me quite a conundrum here....
trying to get perfect balance of N20 and Fuel added, and where to mount the injection, and also another problem would be about what to set the timing at.

 

Heres an idea, take the $500 your gonna spend on a NOS system, and have or buy a smaller pulley and belt for the SC and make more than the 20-30hp you would with the NOS shot you wanna use. Thats not even worth it IMO. Your spending to much effort trying to get this to work with THAT SC. If you use something like a Procharger or Vortech you wouldnt have this issue you could just tap into the intake hose and spray directly into it before the throttle body and not have to worry about destroying the rotors.

 

oh, i am gonna do that.
Im gonna run it at 8~9psi with a CRV crank pulley once I get a better fuel controller.

I want to have the upped psi, and the small shot of nos eventually.

 

Once again, nitrous doesn't destroy the rotor coating...the fuel does. Some people want the best of both worlds, and I guarantee you the nitrous will add more torque per hp than more boost. Not to mention running more boost you're just making that intake temp even hotter, which is the reverse of what he wants to do.

 

Actually... he's a little right. This problem occurs with water injection before the blower, as well as nitrous. And its more than just eating the coating off (moreso with water injection, as typically you're spraying larger quantities and spraying more often. Wet kits have a greater effect on the rotors for the same reason.

IF you put the nozzle too close to the blower, it won't be completely atomized and you'll effectively sandblast your rotors. As long as you don't follow the nitrous manufacturer's instructions, you should be all good. Tap it nice and far from the TB like Dubster said.

You know.... there is a premade port for water injection on the blower... wouldn't be that hard to rig it for nitrous instead. Assuming Moss Motors did their job right while designing it, there would be a relatively even distribution amongst cylinders as well...

 

hmm....now if I run a dry kit, I know you offset that by raising the fuel pressures.

Now would there be a way to put in the dry kit, and have a electronically controlled unit which would add more fuel pressure at the same time of the n2o being injected? Because so far I've heard a few people saying they raised their FP a bit with a cartech or b&m commandflo, but that was just for the track when they went to do their runs.

i was thinking about possibly getting a hondata unit w/ boost option later on, and I was also wondering if any of you NOS guys out there have used hondata with your setups to?

 

The dry kits automatically raise the fuel pressure when the nitrous is flowing, depending on how much nitrous you are putting in.

Qtiger: I've never heard of that problem with a dry kit before, the N2O is a gas when it is sprayed into the intake pipe.

 

u say the dry kit raises fuel pressure automatically when spraying, but that is via a FPR i believe? I have a boost dependant FMU, so could you maybe explain how the FPR is hooked up to the NOS kit for a dry kit to raise the fuel pressure, so maybe I could think of a way to rig it to work with my boost dependant FMU.

 

Yes, its a gas that has just undergone a very rapid pressure drop. As such, you'll see local condensation, etc. I'm not saying its very drastic, but I wouldn't tap 4" from a JRSC.