KurUpTedEL

i drive a Acura 1.6 el (made in canada,known as the Domani in japan).basically a sohc 1.6 vtec auto D16Y8 (just need boost for a little more power)
basically the manifold and downpipe and chargepipe are from a del sol 93 d16z6.....i was told it should fit my d series also(manifold/downpipe/charepipe)

i want to turbo it.....

iw as wondering if this setup woudl work....a tdo5-14b turbine from a dsm with greddy turbo manifold and charge pipe and down pipe and dsm IC

would thsi work.if so wat would i need to do.i heard i woudl have to weld it,true?

would it spool up fast with no lag and continue to high rpms?

is its A/C compatible? and wat else do i need to run it and make sure my tranny or engine wont blow..i will be running it at 6 psi

sum other stuff im considering to buy is...Vortech FPR,SS braided oil feed line,Fuel pressure sensor,Greddy black box,Heat shields and wrap,HKS turbo timer

do i need all of this..also sum gauges like a/f, boost and i was told to get EGT(not sure if i need it?)

thanx in advance

inspyral

Any D series manifold will fit any D series head. You say it's from a Del Sol, but you need to know what turbo it's flanged for in order to choose a turbo that will bolt up to it. It sounds like the manifold, charge piping, and DP are out of an SOHC GReddy kit, which means the manifold is flanged for a Mitsu TD04. The charge piping should work, for the most part. You may need to tweak it here and there since it's laid out for a Del Sol engine bay. Whether or not the downpipe will work depends on the turbo you're using. Although the GReddy kits use mitsu turbos, I don't think any of the other mitsu turbos will bolt onto their manifolds, so I don't think an Eclipse TD05 would bolt up. The Eclipse turbos also have a different O2 housing/downpipe bolt pattern, so if your dp is out of an SOHC GReddy kit like I suspect it is, it's not going to bolt up to an Eclipse TD05 either. If you don't have IC piping, then that is something you'll need to fab up using exhaust mandrel bends and silicone connectors(or welds). As for a DSM IC, it depends on which one you're getting. If you're getting a side-mount IC, you'll need to route your charge piping creatively to get to its inlet and outlet. If you're getting a Starion fmic, you'll need to cut the inlet and outlet off and reweld them to that they're on the ends of the IC, so you can run your IC piping around to the front of the car, thru the IC, and back around the other side in order to get around your AC. A TD05 should have much lag, but that's a subjective statement. It shouldn't run out steam until about 15-18psi or so, but you shouldn't have to worry about that on stock internals. As for the fuel system, the simplest(probably cheapest too) way to get a sufficient setup that will enable you to run up to 8lbs of boost safely is to use your stock injectors, a 12:1 Vortech FMU, and an inline fuel pump. Forget about the GReddy box, it's garbage, just get a Missing Link or use fish tank check valves. An oil feed line is a necessity, so I don't understand why it's something you're "considering" to buy. I'm not sure what you mean by "fuel pressure sensor", but if you mean an FP gauge, it wouldn't hurt to have one. Heat shields and thermo wrap wouldn't hurt, neither would a turbo timer, although if you can stand sitting in the car for about a minute to let it idle down, you can save yourself $80-100. As for gauges, boost is a necessity, a/f(if you mean an Autometer or similar unit) looks nice and will tell you if you're running horribly lean, but is otherwise garbage for tuning, EGT is useful for tuning and certainly better than any A/F ratio meter that runs off the stock O2 sensor. If you want an A/F meter that will actually serve more of a purpose, look into a GReddy A/F, which comes with its own semi-wideband O2 and displays A/F ratio directly instead of a bunch of dancing lights.

KurUpTedEL

but i can weld the the downpipe from the greddy to the tdo5 turbo ant it?

weld it with at the flange?

sorry i in a hurry i got more quetsions

inspyral

You can get the O2 housing for the TD05 and adapt your DP to that.

qtiger

Just a warning about your transmission.... Honda autos, especially D series, do not take kindly to lots of power. You'll either want to play nice with it, or keep in mind that it is a weak point in your setup.

I think Inspy handled most of it... though reading his "paragraph" makes my head hurt.

A 14b shouldn't give you too much lag... spools around 3000 on a factory-new 1G DSM manual. Obviously, you'll spool a little after that... 3600-3800 I'd expect.

inspyral

Sorry, I missed the part about the auto tranny. I agree that they are weaker than manual D series trannies, but there are those who run moderate boost on them without any problems. If you stay at 6lbs of boost, I think you'll be fine.

KurUpTedEL

well i plan on sticking to 6 psi boost and not beating the crap out of my car
i just want more power for the highways and wat not

so my setup should work right?

14b turbo with greddy manifold down pipe and charge pipe?

and if the turbo dont match with the downpipe i can weld it together.....and the a/c shouldnt get in the way i hope ill ask a shop to tell me if it will

will i need a new fuel pupm or injecters for 6 psi?
and the fish check tank valves......those are the small ones that stay under the hood right(sorry forgot)

the greddy a/f meter i take it is digital..isnt EGT a digital gauge that keeps track of the engine temp or sumthin?

DarkLightning

This is correct. Garrett = square hole, TD05 = round hole. Beyond that the bolt patterns are different.

Here's where we get into the myths of turbos. Most people will say, "xxx turbo is good for yyy boost." Eh, not quite. Turbos are rated by the volume of air they flow, not by the boost they create. Relating the volume of air flowed by the turbo to the volume flowed by the engine while normally aspirated will give you the resulting boost pressure. The 14B is probably not a good choice on a 1.6L application, I'd look more towards something closer to a T-25 or smaller Garrett. It's all about air flow.

While I realize the D16 and B16 are different, humor me because these are the specs I have handy:

ENGINE : B16A
BORE : 81mm
STROKE : 77mm

N/A Air Flow @ 8000 RPMs : 225 CFM

Air Flow @ 8000 RPMs @ 5 psi : 271 CFM, 19.2 LBS/MIN
Pressure Ratio @ 5 psi : 1.34

Air Flow @ 8000 RPMs @ 8 psi : 296 CFM, 21.0 LBS/MIN
Pressure Ratio @ 8 psi : 1.54

Now check out :
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Turbo-compare.html

And more specifially:
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/turbo/14g-05_map.gif

Granted this chart is for a 14G, slightly different from our 14B but close enough for discussion sake. Air pressure is the vertical, air volume is the horizontal. Multiply the bottom by 2118 to get CFM. So, our 271 CFM turbo 1.6L equates to ~0.128 on the x-axis and 1.34 on the y-axis. Note that where those two lines meet on the graph doesn't even reach the better efficiency curves. Graph is a little fuzzy, but the efficiency here is mid-60%. This turbo is simply way too big for a 1.6L application running low PSI. However if you look the TD05 14G would fit you nicely if you were running 10 to 12 psi.

On the other hand I have a Garrett lying in my house that'd probably work alright... Having said that, let's move on to a turbo that will A) bolt to your manifold and B) flow the amount of air you require.

Surf to:
http://www.turbofast.com.au/FlowTO4B.html

Here we have Garrett T04B series turbos with different trims. Larger the trim, larger the air flow. The objective of comparing compressor maps is to find the highest possible efficiency for your given application. In this case we have a very low pressure ratio which limits our options. A T-25 might work, but I couldn't find a T-25 compressor map (I don't think T-25 would bolt to your Garrett manifold, though.)

T04B S-3 Trim @ 19.1 LBS/MIN @ 1.34 pressure ratio
This point on the compressor map puts the compressor efficiency between 70% and 72% which is perfectly acceptable. This turbo also has a lot more life left to it and therefore can support more boost pressure should you ever upgrade your bottom end, but is still small enough to handle light (5 psi to 8 psi) loads.

T04B H3 Trim @ 19.1 LBS/MIN @ 1.34 pressure ratio
Here we land at 72% to 74% efficiency. Again, this turbo has a lot more power to give but can push small amounts of air easily.

The other turbos on this page aren't real good choices, and you can judge this for yourself by finding the compressor efficiency at the given points. Note that for the two turbos I mentioned, both of them will have high efficiencies at 5 psi AND at 8 psi with the flow rates above...

DarkLightning

Whew, done. Questions?

MrFatbooty

How did you compute air flow based on bore/stroke?