It died. :-(
sigh. I feel pretty bad right now.
My timing belt must have slipped because I was going through the parking lot at very low rpms and I hear something grinding a little bit then all of the sudden it stopped and I have spark, I'm pretty sure I have fuel... but when I get it close to tdc the exhaust cam looks right and the intake cam is WAAAY off. :-(
And u know how when they turn they turn in synch? They don't. When one's pointing straight down the other is pointing like... to the firewall.
I haven't gotten it home to open it up yet because I don't know how to tow it with it being so low.
:-(
Harry
My timing belt must have slipped because I was going through the parking lot at very low rpms and I hear something grinding a little bit then all of the sudden it stopped and I have spark, I'm pretty sure I have fuel... but when I get it close to tdc the exhaust cam looks right and the intake cam is WAAAY off. :-(
And u know how when they turn they turn in synch? They don't. When one's pointing straight down the other is pointing like... to the firewall.
I haven't gotten it home to open it up yet because I don't know how to tow it with it being so low.
:-(
Harry
I don't know if that will work or not... it's got a 3 inch drop all the way around and I don't know how to take the back bumper off anyways. :-/
I wonder if u can pull it somehow without taking the wheels off the ground, u know?
I wonder if u can pull it somehow without taking the wheels off the ground, u know?
If you have a friend with a truck or something, you could attach tie-downs to the towhooks and get it home that way. Or they might be able to get it onto a flatbed if they stuck some 2x4's in front of your front tires.
RESURRECTED!!! OWNED!!!
It was the pin in my distributor... the one that holds the gear in place where u put it into the intake cam... the little clip was missing so the pin slid halfway out and broke inside the head... so I dug the piece out of the head and put a different (leaky) distributor on, and put it back in correct timing and GUESS WHAT?
kick, kick, kick, VROOM.
CEL came on though... code 20. gayness.
Harry
It was the pin in my distributor... the one that holds the gear in place where u put it into the intake cam... the little clip was missing so the pin slid halfway out and broke inside the head... so I dug the piece out of the head and put a different (leaky) distributor on, and put it back in correct timing and GUESS WHAT?
kick, kick, kick, VROOM.
CEL came on though... code 20. gayness.
Harry
Electrical Load Detector is built into the main fuse box in the engine bay. It basically monitors all your wiring and detects when the current in the system is abnormal. Its main purpose is to make sure the alternator puts out the right current to keep the battery charged. Usually, when there's something wrong electrically, the ELD code gets thrown, so it's hard to assertain what the cause is, unless you know what changes were made to the system before the code was thrown. In this case, since you swapped distributers just before getting the ELD code, the new distributer is at the top of the list of possible culprits. If there's a chance that the old distributer could have triggered the code, try resetting the ECM and see if the 20 comes back. If not,, it was probably the old distributer. If you get a 20 again, the new dist would be the prime suspect. I thik all the OBD-I B series VTEC distributers are the same, so you would probably use an OBD-I GSR dist too.
Oh. Well in that case it's probably the 60 amp fuse I made that goes under the hood fuse box where a 50 amp one goes because the Honda place didn't have one so I soldered ring terminals onto a 60 amp cylinder fuse for car stereo stuff.
Works like a damn charm tho... may not even be that lol
Harry
Works like a damn charm tho... may not even be that lol
Harry



