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Old 07-04-2007, 03:55 PM
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B16a2VTIguy
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Default Engine build problem

i have hust built my B16a2 with the following parts-
*JE pistons (9.0.1)
*eagle rods
*king bearings
*cometic head gasket (051)
*ARP headbolts
*ITR valve springs and retainers

I have done the following
*Met all torque specs
*clean oil channels etc
*checked tolerances (headskimmed,ring gaps etc etc)
*valve clearances (0.08 exhaust, 0.06 intake)

The rod main to crank shells are king and are meant to be hondas standard 'green' in colour code....

My shells removed from each cylinder where 1xgreen 2xred 1xblack
i have been told this is fine and to do more break in miles, is this true?

I have ran the engine and it sounds fine, however i feel it has a small amount of knocking/tapping....its hard to explain.

What do you think, is there something wrong with the way i have done the build, or are forged pistons just that much noisier?

Thanks for any help in advance, ste
Old 07-04-2007, 03:57 PM
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Oh and by the way, i primed the engine with oil before i first started it.
Ive also been told to use 10 40 mineral oil to break it in with for say 500 mile...
Is that ok?
Old 07-04-2007, 04:09 PM
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did the king bearings fit the required clearances? what is the piston to wall clearance set at?
Old 07-05-2007, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Snoopy
did the king bearings fit the required clearances? what is the piston to wall clearance set at?
Im not sure tbh, i just checked the cylinders were not ovalised and were std 81mm.....then i fitted 81mm JE pistons.

I think king bearings matched the clearances? if by that u mean rod to crank clearance (how thick/thin the shell is)??

I just spoke to the guy in the store and told him what i needed?

Does anyone know what torque setting the main rod bolts (ARP on eagle rods) should be?

Sorry if i sound really dumb, im no proffesional engine builder and dont profess to be.

Thanks for any help, ste
Old 07-08-2007, 03:18 PM
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I have just found that it is the crank to rod bearings knocking by the sound of it, as it has got worse and more noticable.

If honda standard colour code is green, then the other three cylinders are not going to have bearings in that are big enough, right?

I mean, black and red must have bigger bearings if the re-grinded crank is smaller.

So, ive ordered some plasti-gauge to check the tolerances and im just going to buy honda shells the correct colour code.

My main question is, Does anybody know the tolerance of the colours?

How big/thick etc is green for example??

Thanks for any help
Old 07-08-2007, 04:16 PM
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found the tolerances.....

Just incase anyone else might need them.

Dimensions:

Main Bearing Set
2.013-2.010 mm 0.0793"-0.0791"
2.010-2.007 mm 0.0791"-0.0790"
2.007-2.004 mm 0.0790"-0.0789"
2.004-2.001 mm 0.0789"-0.0788"
2.001-1.998 mm 0.0788"-0.0787"
1.998-1.995 mm 0.0787"-0.0785"
1.995-1.922 mm 0.0785"-0.0757"

Conrod Bearing Set
1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594"-0.0593"
1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593"-0.0592"
1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592"-0.0591"
1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591"-0.0590"
1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590"-0.0589"
1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589"-0.0587"
1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587"-0.0586"

Here are the Part Numbers from Honda:

Main upper bearings (B16A, B18C, B18B, B20)
13321-PR3-004 BLUE
13322-PR3-004 BLACK
13323-PR3-004 BROWN
13324-PR3-004 GREEN
13325-PR3-004 YELLOW
13326-PR3-004 PINK
13327-PR3-004 RED

Main lower bearings (B16A, B18C, B18B, B20)
13341-PR3-004 BLUE
13342-PR3-004 BLACK
13343-PR3-004 BROWN
13344-PR3-004 GREEN
13345-PR3-004 YELLOW
13346-PR3-004 PINK
13347-PR3-004 RED

B18A/B18B/B20 Rod bearings
13211-PR4-A02 BLUE
13212-PR4-A02 BLACK
13213-PR4-A02 BROWN
13214-PR4-A02 GREEN
13215-PR4-A02 YELLOW
13216-PR4-A02 PINK
13217-PR4-A02 RED

GSR/ITR Rod bearings
13211-P72-003 BLUE
13212-P72-003 BLACK
13213-P72-003 BROWN
13214-P72-003 GREEN
13215-P72-003 YELLOW
13216-P72-003 PINK
13217-P72-003 RED

B16A/B17A Rod bearings
13211-P30-003 BLUE
13212-P30-003 BLACK
13213-P30-003 BROWN
13214-P30-003 GREEN
13215-P30-003 YELLOW
13216-P30-003 PINK
13217-P30-003 RED

taken from team-integra.net
Old 07-09-2007, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by B16a2VTIguy
I have just found that it is the crank to rod bearings knocking by the sound of it, as it has got worse and more noticable.

If honda standard colour code is green, then the other three cylinders are not going to have bearings in that are big enough, right?

I mean, black and red must have bigger bearings if the re-grinded crank is smaller.

So, ive ordered some plasti-gauge to check the tolerances and im just going to buy honda shells the correct colour code.

My main question is, Does anybody know the tolerance of the colours?

How big/thick etc is green for example??

Thanks for any help
Yes, black and red are thicker bearings, meant to be used where the green bearings are too thin...
The tolerances are ALWAYS the same. You must mean the thickness of the bearing? So, if you're crank is "smaller" than standard "green" bearing size, then you use a thicker bearing, giving the same Oil clearance/tolerance with each bearing. I think max is .02mm max clearance on B-series.

I would have said just use OEM Honda parts to start with...
I recently replaced my crank and all main & connecting rod bearings...
I used OEM Honda bearings with the correct codes. I also plastigauged them (should be done anyway) just to make sure my clearances were ok.
Everything checked out just fine.

Get the right colors from Honda and plastigauge them to be sure.
Old 07-09-2007, 10:37 AM
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Mberndt, where are you getting the plastigauge? I am building a motor right now and have no idea where to find it.
Old 07-09-2007, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mberndt
Yes, black and red are thicker bearings, meant to be used where the green bearings are too thin...
The tolerances are ALWAYS the same. You must mean the thickness of the bearing? So, if you're crank is "smaller" than standard "green" bearing size, then you use a thicker bearing, giving the same Oil clearance/tolerance with each bearing. I think max is .02mm max clearance on B-series.

I would have said just use OEM Honda parts to start with...
I recently replaced my crank and all main & connecting rod bearings...
I used OEM Honda bearings with the correct codes. I also plastigauged them (should be done anyway) just to make sure my clearances were ok.
Everything checked out just fine.

Get the right colors from Honda and plastigauge them to be sure.
Thanks for the reply, i have ordered some plasti gauge.

I also have the bearings removed from that crank and standard rods.
When im using the plasti gauge, do i install it with the bearings? when i install it with the bearings, how do i measure its the correct thickness and that the tolerance is correct? vernier caliper?
Old 07-10-2007, 07:32 AM
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Today i removed the rod mains and inspected them, they all looked mint apart from one which had minimal wear.
I replaced the one which had minimal wear torqued everything up and put it all back together.
When i started it, the same knocking noise was there straight away.......
Im starting to think its the crank mains now, do i have to remove the engine to replace them, and do i have to remove the crank? can i not just drop each side of the crank to replace them?



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