Help: Is my starter going bad?????
Help: Is my starter going bad?????
I have a 94 gsr with 115000 miles and it cranks but does not turn over the first try. It will turn over
the second time. Recently it has been doing this in the morning.
- I tested the battery with a voltmeter and I get 12.78 volts with the car off. I tested the altenator
by connecting the voltmeter to the battery and with the car idling I get 14.63 volts.
- The only parts that have not been replaced is the altenator and starter.
- The battery is 2 years old.
- I have replaced: coil, ignitor, main relay = these parts failed awhile ago
- Distributor cap and rotor, sparkplugs, ignition wires have been replaced as routine maintenance.
- Fuel filter was changed 64000 miles ago. I will replace the fuel filter again soon since they are
supposed to be changed at 60000 miles.
I have a 94 gsr with 115000 miles and it cranks but does not turn over the first try. It will turn over
the second time. Recently it has been doing this in the morning.
- I tested the battery with a voltmeter and I get 12.78 volts with the car off. I tested the altenator
by connecting the voltmeter to the battery and with the car idling I get 14.63 volts.
- The only parts that have not been replaced is the altenator and starter.
- The battery is 2 years old.
- I have replaced: coil, ignitor, main relay = these parts failed awhile ago
- Distributor cap and rotor, sparkplugs, ignition wires have been replaced as routine maintenance.
- Fuel filter was changed 64000 miles ago. I will replace the fuel filter again soon since they are
supposed to be changed at 60000 miles.
Last edited by nonbox; May 31, 2007 at 01:24 AM.
Your voltages look OK.
You say the starter cranks the engine strong? If so, that's the extent of the starter's job. If the engine won't fire, that's not the starter's fault.
Flaky ignition switch? Maybe it's not always supplying power to the distributor while it's over in the 'start' position? Check voltage at the distributor or injectors WHILE cranking.
You say the starter cranks the engine strong? If so, that's the extent of the starter's job. If the engine won't fire, that's not the starter's fault.
Flaky ignition switch? Maybe it's not always supplying power to the distributor while it's over in the 'start' position? Check voltage at the distributor or injectors WHILE cranking.
How do you know if it is the ignition switch? Is this a common problem on DC2?
Could the starter contact points be wearing out?
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1318816
Could the starter contact points be wearing out?
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1318816
It's not low enough to rule out inaccurate voltmeter...
It's also not low enough to cause this problem.
Check whether the distributor gets power (like it should) when the key is at 'RUN'. Then check it again while cranking. Flaky switch isn't real unusual for Honda overall, but I don't know specifically for Integra. If you can make it stall by wiggling the key, or by holding the key slightly off-position, that also points to the switch.
It's also not low enough to cause this problem.
Check whether the distributor gets power (like it should) when the key is at 'RUN'. Then check it again while cranking. Flaky switch isn't real unusual for Honda overall, but I don't know specifically for Integra. If you can make it stall by wiggling the key, or by holding the key slightly off-position, that also points to the switch.
Sounds like you have a bad connection, probably ground.
shouldn't be the starter if the car is dieing out on you. Not only could it be what was previously stated by other but it could also be that you need a tune up change out the plugs, wires, cap, and even the fuel filter. could be not getting the proper fuel. When was the last time all of that was done?
I checked all the fuses under the hood and in the dash and they are all good. My fuel filter has 64000 miles on it so I'm going to change it since the service limit is 60k.
I checked the ground straps, one at your valve cover and another on the thermostat housing and they are on tight.
gaps are right on sparkplugs. I have a sparkplug gap gauge.
I checked the ground straps, one at your valve cover and another on the thermostat housing and they are on tight.
gaps are right on sparkplugs. I have a sparkplug gap gauge.


