wtf... this timing belt is a joke.
Okay... Let's start from the beginning...
I'm ATTEMPTING to do LS/VTEC... B18a block, with b16a1 head.
Along with tons of internals but that won't matter...
I tried putting the timing belt on all last night and most of tonight... to no success... every time I put the belt on it looks good... then when I turn it a few times to see if it's still on it's retarded by a half of a tooth or so... which is roughly 8-10 degrees.
Well, I tried tonight and I said **** it I'll advance the cams a little and leave slack on the front and see what happens.
Well it worked good... except it's the exact opposite as before... they are advanced about 8-10 degrees.
Also, with all the slack out, and the tensioner tightened... And having been turned in the right direction... if u stop at TDC and look at the cam gears, they are not a whole tooth off... As in, if I could simply pick the cam gears off, and turn them one tooth (which would be the only way I could do... unless I just decided to go more than 1 tooth)
It would be like I said before, retarded about a half of a tooth.
What in god's name have I done wrong?
Harry
I'm ATTEMPTING to do LS/VTEC... B18a block, with b16a1 head.
Along with tons of internals but that won't matter...
I tried putting the timing belt on all last night and most of tonight... to no success... every time I put the belt on it looks good... then when I turn it a few times to see if it's still on it's retarded by a half of a tooth or so... which is roughly 8-10 degrees.
Well, I tried tonight and I said **** it I'll advance the cams a little and leave slack on the front and see what happens.
Well it worked good... except it's the exact opposite as before... they are advanced about 8-10 degrees.
Also, with all the slack out, and the tensioner tightened... And having been turned in the right direction... if u stop at TDC and look at the cam gears, they are not a whole tooth off... As in, if I could simply pick the cam gears off, and turn them one tooth (which would be the only way I could do... unless I just decided to go more than 1 tooth)
It would be like I said before, retarded about a half of a tooth.
What in god's name have I done wrong?
Harry
Use an ITR timing belt.
__________________
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Btw, my theory is correct, right?
i.e. if all the tension is taken out of the timing belt in all places, there is NO WAY POSSIBLE to have less than 1 tooth off in timing, correct?
Harry
Also, dubster: can a b16a belt do or does it hafta be ITR and nothing else? ;-)
Thanks again guys,
Harry
i.e. if all the tension is taken out of the timing belt in all places, there is NO WAY POSSIBLE to have less than 1 tooth off in timing, correct?
Harry
Also, dubster: can a b16a belt do or does it hafta be ITR and nothing else? ;-)
Thanks again guys,
Harry
Thanks everyone... I got it in time... Right on the money. For some reason I was thinking the "up" mark on the cams would be point STRAIGHT up at TDC when in reality they are turned slightly... And that's the way mine are. I didn't see the mark in between the cams... I'm used to the old B18a with 3 bigass arrows that say: "HERE DUDE YOU DID IT RIGHT"
So basically all that fussing was over nothing. :-(
Thanks for all that helped,
And Kangarod: I've spent well over that much in my rods alone... but thanks for the heads-up ;-)
Harry
So basically all that fussing was over nothing. :-(
Thanks for all that helped,
And Kangarod: I've spent well over that much in my rods alone... but thanks for the heads-up ;-)
Harry


