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Camshaft Does Not Turn

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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 05:47 AM
  #1  
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Default Camshaft Does Not Turn

Hi,

I have a D15B7 engine in my 95 Sol. I'm in the middle of a first-time timing belt change, with everything taken apart. How easily should the camshaft turn when the timing belt is off? The plugs are out, too. The crankshaft turns easily by hand, but the camshaft is solid. I'm worried I may have screwed up some valves, possibly when the cam turned when I loosened the bolt to remove the pulley to inspect the cam seal.

One thing I'm really worried about, too, is I didn't set #1 piston to TDC before taking the belt off. This http://my.prostreetonline.com/forums...hread.php?t=70 how-to does not do that. I later caught this step in my Helms manual. Doh!

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old Oct 22, 2006 | 08:40 AM
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the cam shaft is fighting spring pressure.i try not to turn the cam or crank independently on some engines you can bend valves.the safe way to do it is remove the cam(while the cam is out set the crank to tdc) then replace it with the up mark up and tighten it back down this will insure you don't bend valves and both the cam and crank will be at tdc.use your book to find the cam cap tork.

Last edited by Fuse; Oct 22, 2006 at 08:48 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 03:39 AM
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Thank you so much. You've taken the fear way.

regards,
sgt
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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Here's an easier way (if you haven't already removed the camshaft).

Look at the crank pulley; without turning it, find the TDC mark. Lets call the pointer on the timing cover 12-oclock, since I can't remember exactly what angle...

Wherever it is, move it directly to either 3 oclock or 9 oclock, whichever is closer. Even if you have to turn it backwards. DON'T turn it thru 12 oclock or 6 oclock. Now all 4 pistons are at mid-stroke & you can spin the camshaft wherever you want.

Now position the camshaft to line up the timing marks according to your Helm book.

With the camshaft at the proper position, turn the crank DIRECTLY to TDC, even if you have to turn it backwards. DO NOT turn it thru the 6 oclock position.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 06:48 AM
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I remember when my timing belt was off, I tested how easily they turn, and I think I needed two hands to move it. I wouldn't try too hard, because you may be pushing a valve into a piston.
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JimBlake
Here's an easier way (if you haven't already removed the camshaft).

Look at the crank pulley; without turning it, find the TDC mark. Lets call the pointer on the timing cover 12-oclock, since I can't remember exactly what angle...

Wherever it is, move it directly to either 3 oclock or 9 oclock, whichever is closer. Even if you have to turn it backwards. DON'T turn it thru 12 oclock or 6 oclock. Now all 4 pistons are at mid-stroke & you can spin the camshaft wherever you want.

Now position the camshaft to line up the timing marks according to your Helm book.

With the camshaft at the proper position, turn the crank DIRECTLY to TDC, even if you have to turn it backwards. DO NOT turn it thru the 6 oclock position.
good post you are a 100% rite i never thought of that i will use that next time i run into a problem with a belt.
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 08:43 AM
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Thank you all for the info. I haven't done anything to the car since Saturday. However, I'm afraid I have turned the crank about three quarters of one full turn since the belt was removed. It turned freely with no resistance, so maybe I'm safe? If a valve were bent, would it normally be obvious by looking from the top without taking it out? Would a valve clearance check (which I need to do) potentially reveal a bent valve? I'm going to go ahead and put it back together this weekend.

If I sound like a worry-wart, it's because I got the stressor of a lifetime Saturday. As I attempted to remove the plugs, three of them acted as if they were stripped. I couldn't believe it, since I use a torque wrench and anti-seize compond. I kept working on one of them since I figured the damage was already done, but it eventually came out. It gave me resistance the whole way, as did the other two. I may have used to much anti-seize compound (Permatex) when I installed them, I don't know. I only put a small dab on and then screw them in. It was like they were glued in. When I got them out, the anti-seize was caked on the threads, but the threads were fine.

sgt
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 08:54 AM
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Did you turn the camshaft sprocket by hand? If so, I don't think you could bend any valves without noticing. Even with a wrench, the substantial extra work of doing the bending should be noticeable.

Checking valve clearances should show a bent valve, the clearance will be too large. But if you haven't adjusted your valves in 11 years, then ????

Sometimes my spark plugs do that too. Scary the first time, but use a steady hand on the wrench & don't apply any bending to the socket extension.
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 09:02 AM
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Default Thanks Jim!

Originally Posted by JimBlake
Here's an easier way (if you haven't already removed the camshaft).

Look at the crank pulley; without turning it, find the TDC mark. Lets call the pointer on the timing cover 12-oclock, since I can't remember exactly what angle...

Wherever it is, move it directly to either 3 oclock or 9 oclock, whichever is closer. Even if you have to turn it backwards. DON'T turn it thru 12 oclock or 6 oclock. Now all 4 pistons are at mid-stroke & you can spin the camshaft wherever you want.

Now position the camshaft to line up the timing marks according to your Helm book.

With the camshaft at the proper position, turn the crank DIRECTLY to TDC, even if you have to turn it backwards. DO NOT turn it thru the 6 oclock position.
Mahalo for this post, Jim! Sorry, I realize it was posted 15 years ago ('06 was FIFTEEN YEARS AGO?!), but, it REALLY helped Me right now to get My camshaft to tdc.. I've seen Jim on a couple other forums.. Thank You!
Aloha,
Alex "Kimo" Hawk
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