I would look at your oil pressure. there is a oriface where you can install a fitting and check this at the head. I would do this soon and compare with the stock spec. the idiot light will let you run your motor DRY without throwing the oil pressure light. all the time I was loosing oil pressure in my motor, the only way I could tell is when VTEC slapped in and out. since you have the VTEC system removed essentially, arent you getting a CEL22? the only way I knew to check my Oil Pressure was because VTEC was not staying engaged... bad bad bad news. I never did check it, however my motor now is new, its healthy. I would make this suggestion to you. you can talk to someone at the dealership or something and maybe get the kit. and by the way, its not the same fitting on the LS, we tried once and it didnt work with the one my boy brought home. the GSR/ITR fitting is different.

 

Mike: The vtec components have since been reinstalled, as removing them didn't cause the problem to go away. I didn't get a CEL with them removed though, which was curious. Hopefully I'll be able to get the car up to Houston soon, and have someone with more experience than me, check it out. Thanks for the suggestions though.

 

So, here's an update and some interesting things I've found out since the last little misadventure. The knocking starts as soon as you fire the car up, but stops after about 2-3 seconds for about 5 seconds. It gets louder when you accellerate, and almost unhearable when you decellerate. It's also the same frequency as the valvetrain (1/2 of tachometer rpm). Sounds like a head problem. The problem I was having with the hesitant accellerating I think has to do with an augered out Catalytic conventer. I get the ol' HO2S light, and my engine is running rich like a mofo, with the aux fuel pump on all the time.
For the engine noise, how can you tell that a cam is bent or warped, and would this cause a ruckus in the head? I mean, I ran a dial indicator across the center of the camshaft, and it seemed ok, but it wasn't the truest of circumstances. I've noticed that along with the clanking there's a ploping sound that's definitely valvetrain, coming from the other sound of the head. Let me know what you guys think! Thanks

 

bearing surfaces knock exactly as you describe with the wrong tq setting used to assemble the head, that is how I can tell you that. from my own misfortune. the reason why you have the 1/2 tach frequency is because it is your cams mistightened. pull em out and inspect them I am willing to bet you that this is the problem.

 

I was researching on the Internet and found your post on this message board. I recently purchased a 1999 Acura RL with 99.000 miles. After a few days I started noticing clank clank noise in the engine that sounded like Hydraulic lifter problem. I immediately purchsed a Stethescope and started monitring the noise. The noise happens when I start the car in the morning and then disappears once the car has been warmed up in a few minutes. But surprisingly the noise returns once the car is accelerated above 2500 RPM for about thorty seconds and once the noise starts it can also be heard at lower RPMS. At this point, if the engine is left to idle for a few more minutes the noise disappears gradually. So far I have replaced the hydraulic lifters of the cylinder that is making the noise (detected using the stethiscope), I have also taken all the rocker arms and inspected them for any abnormal wear. The engine (at least the upper part) seems to be very clean. At this point I am running out of options and need some guidance in solving this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please E-,ail me if you think that you might have some advise for me. THANKS.

 

I forgot to mention int the above post that the car runs just fine and strong. The idle is normal and the only problem is the noise.

 

My noise ended up being a rod that moves laterally along the crankshaft, and only at idle. The rod caps for the 2 and 3 rods were also switched at the machine shop during the balancing, and that caused a lot of noise.

 

Eww... that could have been very bad...

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I think my problem is a little different. because the rods for the exhaust and the intake are different in my car. I still think that the noise is coming from the lifters, but after replacing four I am not very keen on putting any more money in the lifters. The noise seems to be coming from the exhaust lifter. I wish there was a way of testing these lifters out. As mentioned earlier the upper part of the engine semms very clean and I did not see any signs of varnish or sludge inside the lifters and rocker arms that I opened. The only other thing that I can think of is maybe a sticking valve. Do you know if that would cause a rough idle? Because my idle is solid even when the noise is at the top. At this point I am just eliminating possibilities and then would probably decide if I need to replace the whole engine rather than flushing this money down the toilet. I can get a used engine for around $1200. I don't know how much it would cost to get it installed. Thanks for your help.

 

After 250 miles, it was already causing severe damage to the bearings. The numbers were 98 and 198 and my buddy and I didn't catch it any of the three times the caps were off. The guy at the speed shop said that after another 250, I could have kissed the crank goodbye.