Are you shorting the service connector? blah blah.... you should try posting your procedure. From what I read that car should not be running while you're pulling codes. It should just be in the accessory spot.

 

There are 4 holes on the back of the service connector, make sure you jump the 2 with the wires going into the other side.

 

Exactly.
If the CEL is staying on, then you aren't jumping the connector correctly. This method will retrieve codes even if the engine is running. If you look at the connector from the end opposite the wires, you'll see that one end is noticably wider than the other, let's call this the "bottom." You need to make sure you're jumping the two "bottom" holes from this view.

 

Still no codes, check engine still comes on at high speeds and high revs,(could possibly be the O2 sensor that isn't hooked even though it doesn't have to be). We are doing the procedure to check for codes correctly, it just isn't throwing any. After reading the last few posts and rereading the instructions from the link I tried again and nothing, both with engine on and off in the acc/ign position. I took it to my friend who works for Ball Honda in San Diego and he couldn't get it to throw codes. The dowel and o-ring have been replaced, the oil spray bars are on correctly the wiring has been triple checked. Going to try and check the solenoid itself like Kinghawk said and see if anything clicks.

And just in case I havn't *****ed and moaned enough yet I happened to snap both 10mm bolts on the intake cam oil spray bar, one with the rachet and the other with my fingers. Obviously they were a little weakened by age or abuse or some sh!t because I barely tightened the first one with the wrench at all and it snapped, and the other one snapped when I tried to tighten it with my fingers. Then I got fined $25 for performing a repair on a vehicle in the public area of my apartments gated parking lot:madfawk: Sorry, I just needed to vent a little.
2x10mm bolts from Acura=$12.47

 

Is the CEL on when you're checking for codes? If so, I don't see how it could be on if there are no codes present.

 

Took the words out of my mouth.

 

Here is something that might help, if your CEL is going on at high rpms and then going off when you drop back down?

If so what you can do is get the car up on Jack stands, put in gear and take up to point when CEL is on, then have a friend check for codes.

 

Finally it works!!! Hooked the solenoid up to the battery and got the click, so this sent us back to the ECU where we found that the vtec wire was in A4 instead of A2 where it should be when running a OBDII motor with an OBDI GSR ECU. I don't know how it got stuck there but it's fixed now. I'm a little disappointed with the results though, with the GSR cams I had in before you could really hear and feel the vtec kicking in, and now with ITR cams, ITR overbore pistons and other junk I put in there you can barely hear or feel it even though it does pull pretty hard. But I guess that's because the ecu has been chipped for the previous setup that I had. We'll see what happens after we hook the V-AFC and tune it properly.

By the was the CEL is only on when the motor is running after high rpms, as soon as I shut it off by turning the key one click back it goes off. I also tried just letting the clutch out with it in gear to see if it would stay on but it doesn't. And even with the vtec working now it still does it, my guess is still the o2 sensor so that will be my next job. Thanks for all the responses guys, your help was much appreciated.