This has been an ongoing thing for me.

Freshly rebuilt B18A1 with an str blockguard, je srp pistons and eagle rods. The blockguard was installed about 3/8 of an inch down the sleeve and was done before the block was bored out. I installed the engine N/A for breakin and had problems with it getting hot(about 3/4 the way up the factory gauge). I thought it was air bubles and bled the system and it seemed to go away for then.

A few weeks later i switched to a neon half rad and i really couldnt keep it cool. It would go up to 3/4 on the highway in 50 degree weather while driving at 60 mph. I would turn the fan on and it would cool back down.

This brings me to now, i ditched the neon rad, went with a fluidyne rad. Installed my turbo which consists of an inline pro manifold, precision turbo, 3 inch downpipe and exhaust and an open downpipe. The downpipe isnt quite out of the engine bay and im wondering if its part of the problem. I will be extending it in the next couple of days to eliminate that variable. Uberdata is saying the temperature is around 223 when its at 3/4's. Engine oil temp is around 210 (i have an oil cooler) when its heated up to that coolant temperature. Im boosting 10 PSI right now.

I replaced the waterpump when i rebuilt it with a rebuilt one and it calved so i just put on a new oem waterpump and also just replaced my thermostat today. Fan is kicking on around 200ish and is pushing air into the rad.

I was thinking maybe its just not getting an adequate amount of airflow as i do have a lot of things in the way. I was thinking of taking some aluminum plate and putting it beside the rad and on top to sort of box it in and not let the hot engine bay air suck back into the rad.

Compression is good, 175 across the board. I have not done a leakdown test. I am running the felpro multilayer steel headgasket and am boosting 10 psi. There is No coolant leaks or coolant in the oil.


Any ideas on what the hell is up? Ive replaced everything i can think of beside doing the few tweaks above.

Heres a picture of the engine bay as it sits. You can see everything is ridiculously tight



heres my bottom end with the blockguard to show you what style of blockguard i have

 

u should have air being pulled away from the radiator first off, it wouldnt make sense to pump hotinto it from your engine bay. also trying hooking up a manual swirch to ur fan so u can have it run at all times. for some reason my fan wasnt tunring on all the time after i went turbo. so i just wired in a togglr switch and i keep it on all the time when the car is runing. the cooler the motor the better

 

i should have mentioned that i had a manual switch for the longest time. Im going to be putting some aluminum duct around the rad to help it draw cooler air from the front bumper as i mentioned above.

This problem was happening when i was N/A though

 

hmm. u could try putting a lower temp thermostat in.

 

you need to weld your dump tube a different way to where it gives you more room to play with, move your radiator to where the rad support is, you will always have heat problems with it being that far back. Also, the block guard will cause some heat problems as well. good luck

 

thanks for the ideas guys however the rad cannot be moved any closer to the front of the car.It is an EG rad in an EF and as you know they are close to 2 inches higher. Therefore i cannot move it any farther forward. Ill have to box it in.

T-stat is at 170F so thats not the problem.

 

buy a EF rad then......

I had the inline pro block gaurd and my car actually ran cooler with it

 

hmmm aftermarket cooling. fluid levels are good. and so is waterpump. Im scared to say the blockguard.

 

he said it was doing that before the blockgaurd. try removing the thermostat

 

Did you drill out the waterjackets in the blockguard?