I am planning on upping the boost to 10 psi and get it tuned with a standalone ECU. I currently built a basemap for uberdata, but I may go with another program depending on what the tuner prefers.

I got the P72 all chipped out and running today with the basemap I made, so now it is just time to book some dyno time. I am new to this whole tuning thing, so I am open to some suggestions. Can anyone recommend a tuner that could work with my setup in the Orange County area?

Also, I am running the stock fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Should I opt for a larger fuel pump and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator before I get on the dyno?

 

Just FYI, when people say "standalone" they tend to mean a real aftermarket control system, like a Haltech, Wolf, Microtech, etc... not so much a reworked stock computer. I guess it's a bastardization that the Honda world kind of formed thanks to stock Honda computers actually being good.

 

OK. Semantics, semantics. h:

It kind of is a stand alone ECU because it doesn't require anything to properly fuel the car under conditions it was never designed for (ie boost). As long as there is no piggyback unit or FMU, it is a standalone in my book. But you do have a valid point.

But that doesn't answer my question.

 

Well, if you have the money, a FPR and a Walbro pump would be a worthwhile investment. The pump especially so, just to make sure you have one that will keep up full pressure at redline/full boost condition.

 

Any suggestions on pump size for my Greddy setup running 10 psi and aiming for 230whp?

Bump for some good shop suggestions.

 

The standard Walbro 255lph will be good for you. You'll probably outrange the smaller 190lph soon if you plan on further upgrades.

 

yeah, go ahead and get the walbro 255 and it wont hurt to get a adjustable fpr. If you have adjustable cams, get a valvecover that has the gear spots cut out, it will pay for its self at the dyno. If you are running stock gs-r cams, upgrade to type r cams, cheap upgrade and it will give you more power on less boost. If you get the cams, get some cam gears. Be sure you have atleast half a tank of gas. Be sure you are not throwing any codes and your motor is good to go when you get to the dyno. These are the only tips that i can give you, and since i dont live in cali, i cant suggest.

 

Thanks for the advice. I will definitely go for the FPR and fuel pump right away. Maybe, down the road, I will buy some ITR cams and gears, but I just want to get it tuned for daily driver reliability while extracting as much power out of my current setup as possible.

 

nice choice, you should enjoy your motor alot more with it being fully tuned and pushing a few more pounds.