Ok first off im gonna explaine everything that i have in the motor. I had a B16a2 built with new sleeve pistons rings rods crank, the head has skunk 2 stage 2 camshafts with all the valve train upgrades (duel valve springs stainless valves titanium retainers and the head was ported and polished.) i have a akunk 2 intake manifold and a bbk 70 mm throttle body skunk 2 cam gears unorthodox light weight pullys im only running an altenator no other pumps its got stock s99 si fuel rail and injectors and fuel pump however i have an aem adj. fuel regulator. I have a venom 400 chip and a apexi AFC vtec controller i took the car to a shop here to get it dyno tuned and they said they found some problems with the car so I told them to fix them the car was running really strong when i took it in to them. one of the problems is that i couldnt floor my accelerater pedal when i did the car would fall on its face. i dont know what they did but they fixed that problem and now i can put my foot through the floor board no problems. after they installed the apexi and dyno tuned it 9so they say) the car is really weak it has no power. they said my timing was off so they re set it. i took it to my teams mechanic and he said they had the timing 180 ot on the cams side of things. he messed with it but still the car is not running right there is no power it sputters at idle and miss fires throughout the entire rpm range. ( note that the car wasnt doing this before i took it in to the shop for dyno tuning) i went back to the shop and all they could tell me is well sir were sorry but your car is tuned for max efeciency on our dyno. the final results were 119 max hp on a worked B16 this cant be right. but I have adj. skunk 2 cam gears does any one know what timing marks are what on here how do i set the mechanical timing for my motor?? I think this whole problem is timing I have had about a million people here trying to help me figure this whole thing out but everyone is stummped. some one told me that after the engine is tdc @ #1 that the end cam lobes ( the ones closest to the dist.) would be facin echother so i tried that the car wouldnt start. i havent slapped any valves yet (I had them checked) now the car runs but its just crappy. the shop that i had instal the vtec controller also messed with my vaccume lines I think i have them corrected and i know there isnt any leaks. any help on this setting the skunk 2 cam gears would be appreciated. and one more thing when i adj. the timing i set the gears at 0 degrees. are the timing marks supposed to be lined up straight across or at an angle? right now their aat an angle and twards the lower portion. ill take a pic if i can get into the correct lighting tomorrow if that will help any one. thank you and sorry this is soo long.

 

First off, take the venom chip garbage off. Secondly, check your ignition timing with a light and make sure it is to factory spec. Next, make sure that the TDC mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the mark on the cover and then the cams are reading TDC.

Take it to another tuning shop since those guys are more than incompetent and have the new shop fix what the old shop broke.

 

the timing on the crank is proper but with the skunk 2 cam gears i dont know which mark is TDC thats what im asking it has 3 marks 1 is centered at the top above the cam adj. lines the other 2 are on the sides. in the center of the motor how should the timing marks be aligned?? are they to be straight across from echother at the closest point for the 2 or should they be off set?? im new to this whole timing thing and no one arround here knows how to set the timing for the skunk 2 cam gears. everyone tells me to go back to stock cam gears I say no.

 

The arrow has to be pointing straight up. Each mark is 2 degrees, so if it is pointing straight up at the 0 marking, it should be at 0 degrees TDC. I don't think that is your problem though.

 

As soon as I read that you had a venom chip in there, I thought the same thing as shmoo. I've read up on it before I was going to buy it, and found it to be pointless, saved myself 300 bucks. It just makes the computer think that throttle is open more than it really is, but WOT is WOT is WOT, and doesnt go past that, so the same thing that chip does is what your foot does when you push down harder on the gas.

 

It just dumps more gas into the engine even though the airflow isn't increased to compensate and then you have an overly rich mixture. I would take it off and see if it helps any.

 

ok i un hooked the venom and the car runs worse. i went back to the shop and they say they dont know waht they did so i cant figure it out. is there diffrent settings for the tps sensor or is it just a one way fits all like the distributer?? i think i have the vacume lines fixed but my vacume booster for my brakes when plugged into the intake makes my idle jump really high up in the 3500 rpm range so i keep it unplugged. my brakes stil work fine so I figure ill roll with that for now untill i can figure it out. as far as the timing i checkd the mechanical timing at the crank and the ignition timing and its all fine. i just dont know where tdc is at for the skunk 2 cam gears. this is a huge headace. the car has lots of power now as I have played with the cam gears but it has really really bad miss fires. i replaced the cap rotor wires (which are nology and not cheap) pluggs both to hotter and colder pluggs and nothing seems to work. no matter where i put the ignit. timing it still miss fires. so now i have 2 options slap on the turbo as the motor is now and hope things correct them selves or yank the motor and dropp in a jdm B16. another question is on the jdm motor i have (which i was gonna stroke and build the lving crap out of) came with a silver box but the motor in my car did not do I need it could that be my problem. I dont know what the box is or what it does but I think someone told me its some type of resistor box or somthing Im not shure its been a while. thank you all for your help it is greatly appreciated.