I have been having issues with oil burning every since I replaced my headgasket about 3 months ago. Every time I step on it full throttle, it lets out this enormous cloud of smoke that I can see behind me. I also have a large accumulation of black soot on my back bumper. I thought I was running really rich, but when my oil pressure shot well below 20psi at full throttle, I knew it wasn't just running rich. I checked the oil and I was 3 quarts low since the last time I refilled it about 2 months ago and my car only takes 4 quarts .

I have some questions on how to clear this up:

I have done a compression and leakdown test and they both came up normal, so is there a way to check the valve seals to make sure they aren't leaking because I speculate that they may be the culprit?

I have an oil catch can but I am not sure if I routed it right. It goes from a functioning PCV valve to the can to the manifold. Is there another way that I should have it routed to make sure that no oil vapor gets into the manifold to be burned off?

I removed the hose leading from the preturbo filter pipe to the valve cover because the turbo was sucking the oil back through the hose and burning it when it touched the hot blades. I replaced it with a filter. I have heard mixed things about doing this but I have no idea where to put it instead so it won't get a reverse vaccum effect. Any ideas?

Is there anything else it could be other than these things I covered. I have been bashing my head against the wall trying to figure this out but nothing seems to help. I really need to fix this problem because the oil is contaminating everything.

 

Are you 100% sure that your compression test turned out ok? Mine was doing the same thing and it was bad rings. You can test valve seals by pouring a dab of oil into your spark plug hole and doing another compression test, but if it turned out ok the first time then that would mean that all is ok in there. I have a good feeling it's either rings or valve seals considering that's really all that can allow oil into the combustion chamber to burn it.

I feel for you man, mine was doing the exact same thing. I don't have a catch can on my PCV valve and I don't burn off... I will be adding it soon though.

 

Ok. I guess I will have to tear apart my engine and replace both just to make sure it won't happen again. Is there a all-inclusive writeup somewhere that will guide me on what parts I will need to replace while I am down there? I have a service manual but they make you decode everything before you find the answer you are looking for. I know I need rings, valve seals, new HG, maybe some ARP head studs, ring compressor, cylinder hone, and valve spring compressor. But is there anything else I need, like new main and bearing cap bolts, or bearings?

 

I was thinking about your problem the other day and had completely forgotten that oil could also be coming from your turbo. Are you sure that the seals in the turbo are good? Have you taken an IC pipe off to see if it's oily? Try that, little easier than tearing apart your block.

 

I was actually thinking the same thing but the turbo is practically brand new. I blew one of the intercooler pipes off a few weeks ago but didn't notice any oil at all. The strangest thing was that it started smoking hardcore right after I changed my headgasket. I don't know what would explain that, but I assume that replacing the rings and valve seals this weekend will fix whatever it is. I really appreciate the help though and I will exhaust every possibility until I am blue in the face.

 

did you torque the head down and make sure to use ARP studs?

 

No. I didn't use ARP studs. I figured that I would just reuse the old bolts if they were torqued correctly. Could it be a leaky but not blown headgasket?

 

ARP (or other aftermarket head studs) are not necessary. I know plenty of people that swear by OEM head bolts. I have heard that they are TTY though. Consdier getting another set of OEM bolts or just go with aftermarket - I prefer AEBS because they have an allenhead top to the studs so you can properly torque them without using the double-nut method.

If you think of the design of a head gasket you would likely burn coolant off before oil. The coolant channels run closest to the cylinders and then the oil passages so I don't see that being your problem - although I could be wrong...

Burning off oil sucks because it's hard to diagnose.

 

OEM head bolts stretch into place, and should be replaced any time you remove them.


That could be causing problems.

 

You have a really good point there about the leaky headgasket. I am not burning coolant and I know this for a fact. The compression test reveals nothing out of the ordinary except somewhat worn rings. The numbers were all around 210 psi, so that is where my dilemna is. The numbers are good but I am missing a quart of oil every week and a half, so where the hell is it going? It is going on my back bumper. Some how it is getting into the combustion chamber. I have a catch can, new headgasket, and no leaks from the spark plugs, so that leaves the rings and the valve seals. I will replace both this weekend just to eliminate those as well. The problem should go away, I would assume.

About the studs/bolts, I don't need ARP. That would just be overkill. I will stick with the stock bolts but get me a new set just to be safe.