I'd always been told that a b18c1 is a direct bolt in for a 5G Civic. All articles, all DIYs I've been able to find agree that is the case.

Apparently not with my car. I have a 1994 Civic CX Hatch, and it is completely missing a 6 (3 in use) pin connector to match a connector on my engine harness. This connector wires the evaporative emissions and crankshaft speed fluctuation sensor, neither of which the Civic have.

So what's the deal? Do I need to swap out my main harness (At the moment I'm assuming that that is what will be required) or what?

If I do swap out my main harness, will it still connect properly to my ECU subharness? It is ESSENTIAL that I retain the stock Civic subharness.

 

Holdup!!!

Don't take out the wiring harness just yet my friend...!!

I just did the same swap that you are trying to attempt just two months ago, let me help you with the wiring.

Go to www.hybrid-k.com and check out the tech section for the 5G civics. The wiring diagrams are there. If you need more help, i can take pictures of my harness with my digicam and send them to you. I'm a visual guy and no place online has pictures of what the harness should look like when you are done hacking at it.

Its pretty simple but if you feel froggy, i can send you a prototype harness adapter my company is about to release at a discounted price. Its plug and play my friend and includes instructions ( with good pictures *lol*) and all necessary clips, ties and doodads you'll need.

revintovtec@comcast.net

www.vizzionpower.com

Kristoffer Gordon
Co-Owner;
Director of New Product Development
Vizzion Power Systems
The sight of speed...

 

You can AIM me:

VizzionAuto

I can help there too

 

if you are using an OBD2 motor and OBD2 harness everything should plug in, you just need to repin the distributor and use and OBD1 ecu. The crankshaft speed fluctuation sensor is an OBD2 thing, so if you use an OBD1 ecu you don't even need it plugged in, also you should be fine if the evap emissions purge is not plugged in. You will not be able to plug and play with an OBD2 ecu, so just stick/get and OBD1 ecu.

 

I'm using an AEM programmable engine management system, so OBD is not an issue.

 

why AEM over hondata?

 

Less expensive and more features.

 

:werd:

That AEM system is freakin' sweet!

 

i got my stage 2 hondata for $350. how much did you get the AEM for?

 

Who tuned it for you and how much was that? How much will it cost to tune next time you add mods?

Hondata stage 4: $845

EEPROM programmer: $270

OBDI ECU: $250

Socketing: $50

Chips: $10

Downtime while buying ECU from some kook on thepartstrader, then shipping it to be socketed, then installing it and tuning it: Couple weeks.

OR

AEM EMS: $1200

I can program on the fly without additional hardware, datalog, use wideband O2 sensors without any additional hardware, log additional sensors (try getting a Hondata to log a few accelerometers), never have to touch another chip, and I'm not limited by the godawful speed of a PROM. It plugs into my stock harness and I don't need an additional ECU.

Plus I'm using individual throttle bodies and therefore running my fuel maps off of throttle position, not a MAP sensor. Another option not supported by Hondata.