Hey... I need a place to start, so toss whatever ideas you feel like sharing out here!

I had one before, but made the mistake of selling it... Never again! 88-91 crx si with b16a.... but built. I want a little compression.... I like vtec too much to go turbo, sorry! Like to run a 13.7-13.9 1/4 on full interior. So run with it... internals, bolt-ons, head work, misc stuff like balancing when its out, polishing, etc. I'm not looking to spend a ton, as im sure is usually the case. Think more common parts, compatibles....

Thanks for all the help... Just tell me the setup, include tranny if youd like, and what you think hp/tq/quarter would be...

 

nothing like a crx hybrid

Heres what i'd do (on a budget):

CTR pistons
port/polish/valve job
skunk2 stage 2 cams (w/ appropriate springs and retainers--at least CTR quality)
ITR intake/exhaust manifolds
hondata s200

then you'd have a peppy little homemade B16B (only better ) without breaking the bank

 

awww, gotta be more ideas! white n slow, if you read this, what do you think that has for hp/tq/quarter? i like the sound of it. i also wanna raise my redline a bit, so im gonna be doing some GREAT quality head work, that's for damn sure.

 

its very hard to estimate hp torque and quarter times. it depends on too many variables in the environment as well.

btw right on b16 brother^_^ not too many b16 people on this forum, the b18 whores.

 

s2 stage 2 cams will make power up to 9000 or so... but don't limit yourself to those. Also check out crower, toda, etc. Just get the springs and retainers recommended by the manufacturer of the cams you choose.

On a setup very similar to what I described, Roger Foo's Speedvision touring civic made 184 whp, but as alpha said, predicting #s is tricky business... Just be sure to spend some time on the dyno once everything is put together.

 

Awesome! I'm loving this! Keep going, anyone else who reads this. And to those of you who have posted, thanks a ton. So no more numbers.... but I DO want high redline.... and this is one place im actually pretty sketchy on. I know that's basically in the head work... so ill be doing that in high quality pieces. but redline... what does it take to raise that up a bit- im gonna be spending more on the head i think, at least relatively to the block. so lets move to headwork and a nice large number for redline...

 

all thats really necessary to safely raise the redline is valvetrain (cams, springs, retainers, and depending on goals, valves), The flow of the head wont affect redline, but it will determine how much power youre making @ redline (and everywhere else in the powerband).

But be sure to keep bottom end in mind. Think of it like this: cams don't make more torque, they just shift the torque curve upward, so the bulk of the power is being made higher in the powerband. And the higher in the powerband, the more hp they will make (since hp is just a function of torque and rpm [ hp=tq x rpm/5252])... At the same time, they can drastically reduce low end torque... With a typical stage 3 cam (like toda spec C, for instance) you'll be making tons of hp, but there will be nothing below 4500 rpm, making it difficult to drive around town, and causing an erratic, lumpy idle. Cam profiles like this are great for racing, but can be a pain in the ass for daily driving. For my transportation/daily driver, I wouldn't want to go past a stage 2 cam, but if you want that screaming 10k redline, its up to you. (you would need to consider revising the shortblock beyond pistons at that point).

 

why are you so dead set on wanting a high redline? you wont make a whole lot of power up there. :thinking:

 

Well, I think stage 2 is enough for me. I like that. and the block will get plenty of attention, no worries. i like to be safe and do a little more than i actually have to. and White, thanks for all that information. I need to keep you in mind when I have any questions like this huh? It was a ton of help, and i appreciate it a lot!

 

you should only want a high redline if your engine keeps producing HP and torque after the stock redline =-D other then that there is no real reason for wanting a high redline..