H22 swap into Civic EX 2K
other than the fact that i would need the engine and the engine mount bracket, what else would i need. would i be able to use the original lude's shift linkage or could i just use the one i have in my car?
thinking about building my civic to be NA, but just weight the cost right now between H22 vs. B16a vs. B18C vs. Turbo the crap out of my D16Y8 :naughty: . anyone done an estimate analysis on these options? i figure since i'd be running turbo, then i would need turbo timers, fuel gauges, etc etc... so the total cost of that compared to the others... what do you all think? sorry for the long as brain teasers...
thinking about building my civic to be NA, but just weight the cost right now between H22 vs. B16a vs. B18C vs. Turbo the crap out of my D16Y8 :naughty: . anyone done an estimate analysis on these options? i figure since i'd be running turbo, then i would need turbo timers, fuel gauges, etc etc... so the total cost of that compared to the others... what do you all think? sorry for the long as brain teasers...
You have to use the prelude shift linkage, it is cable instead of the bar type. You will have to use an accord/prelude shifter, and cut a hole in your floorboard for the cables. You will need a 90+ accord midshaft, and use 90-93 integra axles. The mount kit requires you to cut out the factory transmission mount also. Sport compact car did an article last year about the H22 swap, might want to check that out.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
I have seen a couple H22A equiped civic run before on the 1/4... not impressed. they were running slightly HIGHER times than the b18C1 hybrids there.. now you can blame a lot of things on that, but whatever. first impressions i got anyway of the whole craze.
They are also like +150-170lbs in the nose.. so you have to contend with that if you're an opentracker or autoXer.
as above said.. i'd stick to the B series
some of the mount kits dont require such crazy CV axel configurations.. do research and find out which ones are best. I wanna say the HASport or HCP is the better one. I dont remember though, i sold my CX Hatch Hybrid long ago and havnt kept up with the scene.
They are also like +150-170lbs in the nose.. so you have to contend with that if you're an opentracker or autoXer.
as above said.. i'd stick to the B series
some of the mount kits dont require such crazy CV axel configurations.. do research and find out which ones are best. I wanna say the HASport or HCP is the better one. I dont remember though, i sold my CX Hatch Hybrid long ago and havnt kept up with the scene.
I've seen stock H22 hatches run low low 13 sec 1/4 mile passes on street tires, bone stock.
__________________
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
im kinda new on here so yea....um...im thinkin about doing a h22 in my 97 hatch but if u got a coupe den jus do the d16y8 turbo if not jus do a b-series swap becuz my friend rebuilt his d16 and runnin 18psi rite now at dis very moment, shit is fast....
Originally Posted by tokyoracer
other than the fact that i would need the engine and the engine mount bracket, what else would i need. would i be able to use the original lude's shift linkage or could i just use the one i have in my car?
thinking about building my civic to be NA, but just weight the cost right now between H22 vs. B16a vs. B18C vs. Turbo the crap out of my D16Y8 :naughty: . anyone done an estimate analysis on these options? i figure since i'd be running turbo, then i would need turbo timers, fuel gauges, etc etc... so the total cost of that compared to the others... what do you all think? sorry for the long as brain teasers...
thinking about building my civic to be NA, but just weight the cost right now between H22 vs. B16a vs. B18C vs. Turbo the crap out of my D16Y8 :naughty: . anyone done an estimate analysis on these options? i figure since i'd be running turbo, then i would need turbo timers, fuel gauges, etc etc... so the total cost of that compared to the others... what do you all think? sorry for the long as brain teasers...

Y8 turbo would be faster and cost less. BUT I've had D16 turbo H22 B16A and B18C engines. I liked all of them and had one of each for a little while. It's all up to you. This is in stock form fastest to slowest. D16 turbo > H22 > B16A ≥ B18C. This is in an EG or EK.
It also depends on what you want to do with this car. I did everything with all this engines. H22 Civic was built for auto-x/road racing and was also street driven and drag'd. The other being engine setups being the same way.
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