Polyurethane bushings? YES!
#12
Good discussion here guys, I've been wanting to do this but wasn't sure it would be worth it.... well, I mean I knew it would beneifit the handling but wan't sure if the benefit was large enough to make me want to do this.
Anyhow, I definitely will be doing this now... How much have you guys paid for the complete kits? :thumbup:
Anyhow, I definitely will be doing this now... How much have you guys paid for the complete kits? :thumbup:
#13
oops, i did that on my teins, where they join to the LCA's, the whole shoulda tightened them on the ground, now the rears squeek, is it the kinda thing where if i dont mind it, should i fix it or not, itz not hurting anything right?? also how hard is the bushing install?? iwas thinkin about doing it myself, now thjat i know it is worth the money.
#14
Synthetic grease on all bushines, spacers, inside holes, etc. will prevent squeaks.
Yes, you should always put the vehicle back on the ground under it's own weight before you fully tighten & torque any bolts on a piece under load. what I mean is there is no problem tightening the top of the shock mount, but you'd want to wait to tighten the shock bolt on the bottom of the control arm.
If you do not wait to tighten (them) you will put them in a bind when you put the vehicle back on the ground.
ALWAYS check Summitt Racing for prices first- yes, they are mainly a V8/rear wheel drive shop, but it's because of that that they usually have the cheapest prices on sport compact parts.
kt
Yes, you should always put the vehicle back on the ground under it's own weight before you fully tighten & torque any bolts on a piece under load. what I mean is there is no problem tightening the top of the shock mount, but you'd want to wait to tighten the shock bolt on the bottom of the control arm.
If you do not wait to tighten (them) you will put them in a bind when you put the vehicle back on the ground.
ALWAYS check Summitt Racing for prices first- yes, they are mainly a V8/rear wheel drive shop, but it's because of that that they usually have the cheapest prices on sport compact parts.
kt
#15
Originally posted by karlt10
Synthetic grease on all bushines, spacers, inside holes, etc. will prevent squeaks.
Yes, you should always put the vehicle back on the ground under it's own weight before you fully tighten & torque any bolts on a piece under load. what I mean is there is no problem tightening the top of the shock mount, but you'd want to wait to tighten the shock bolt on the bottom of the control arm.
If you do not wait to tighten (them) you will put them in a bind when you put the vehicle back on the ground.
ALWAYS check Summitt Racing for prices first- yes, they are mainly a V8/rear wheel drive shop, but it's because of that that they usually have the cheapest prices on sport compact parts.
kt
Synthetic grease on all bushines, spacers, inside holes, etc. will prevent squeaks.
Yes, you should always put the vehicle back on the ground under it's own weight before you fully tighten & torque any bolts on a piece under load. what I mean is there is no problem tightening the top of the shock mount, but you'd want to wait to tighten the shock bolt on the bottom of the control arm.
If you do not wait to tighten (them) you will put them in a bind when you put the vehicle back on the ground.
ALWAYS check Summitt Racing for prices first- yes, they are mainly a V8/rear wheel drive shop, but it's because of that that they usually have the cheapest prices on sport compact parts.
kt
#16
When I got the Energy master kit for my 'Vette, it came with two little tubs of grease. I used just over half of what they gave me and it didn't squeek. I wouldn't use lithium grease on bushings though, since it wears out easily.
#17
Originally posted by LX4CYL
so if I'm doing a spring/shock install, will I have to tighten the fork/pinch bolts that are behind the wheel after I put the car back on the ground?
so if I'm doing a spring/shock install, will I have to tighten the fork/pinch bolts that are behind the wheel after I put the car back on the ground?
The important thing is to grease the two bussings and sleeve at the top of the strut to avoid any squeking.
If you need help in the rear let me know :naughty: lol
#18
Originally posted by h22avid
First slip your strut up into the strut tower and put the two bolts on loosely not tight yet....then slip the fork onto the bottom of the strut and don't put the pinch bolt in yet because you'll want to line up your strut before tightening it...once you get the fork on the strut allign the holes through the fork with the lca and shimmie or lightly hammer the bolt through while doing the shimmie with the hub/rotor too...put the nut loosely on the other side of the bolt through the fork....now everything should be in loosely....shimmie the strut to get it good and straight making sure that the sping is sitting properly in the seat of the strut (end of spring coil against the notched rise in strut seat)....tighten the top two bolts on the strut tower ... apply pressure by lifting on the knuckle or by using a jack to make sure the strut is firmly seated in the fork then put the pinch bolt in...tighten the bottom nut & bolt on the lca and your ready to bring it down.
The important thing is to grease the two bussings and sleeve at the top of the strut to avoid any squeking.
First slip your strut up into the strut tower and put the two bolts on loosely not tight yet....then slip the fork onto the bottom of the strut and don't put the pinch bolt in yet because you'll want to line up your strut before tightening it...once you get the fork on the strut allign the holes through the fork with the lca and shimmie or lightly hammer the bolt through while doing the shimmie with the hub/rotor too...put the nut loosely on the other side of the bolt through the fork....now everything should be in loosely....shimmie the strut to get it good and straight making sure that the sping is sitting properly in the seat of the strut (end of spring coil against the notched rise in strut seat)....tighten the top two bolts on the strut tower ... apply pressure by lifting on the knuckle or by using a jack to make sure the strut is firmly seated in the fork then put the pinch bolt in...tighten the bottom nut & bolt on the lca and your ready to bring it down.
The important thing is to grease the two bussings and sleeve at the top of the strut to avoid any squeking.
#19
Well, really they all should be tightened under load... the easiest way to do this is while your car is on jack stands, place a jack under the knuckle/spindle and jack it up to place a load on the suspension components... keep jacking it up until the car lifts just slightly off of your jack stand... once this happens, you know that there is plenty of load on the suspension and all of the bolts can be tightened.:thumbup:
#20
Originally posted by h22avid
Well, really they all should be tightened under load... the easiest way to do this is while your car is on jack stands, place a jack under the knuckle/spindle and jack it up to place a load on the suspension components... keep jacking it up until the car lifts just slightly off of your jack stand... once this happens, you know that there is plenty of load on the suspension and all of the bolts can be tightened.:thumbup:
Well, really they all should be tightened under load... the easiest way to do this is while your car is on jack stands, place a jack under the knuckle/spindle and jack it up to place a load on the suspension components... keep jacking it up until the car lifts just slightly off of your jack stand... once this happens, you know that there is plenty of load on the suspension and all of the bolts can be tightened.:thumbup: