Just buy like 10 feet of it. It will be cheaper than a premade kit even if you bought too much.

 

10 feet should be enough

 

this is where i got my high out put alternator for my 90 hatch. they make them for almost anything you can think of.if you cant find it on their website just call them.
http://www.4alterstart.com/door/

 

I did this for my ITR, what's your opinion?

2m of Norauto 10mm section battery cable and 6 Norauto gold plated terminals for 10mm section cables (17 euros in total).


I replaced the two engine ground cables and connected directly the battery ground cable to one of the engine ground cables.


For me this is the best solution instead of connecting a spaghetti mess of cables everywhere in the engine bay or buying a more expensive ground stabilizer.

 

dude that sucks didn't your batery still have waranty?

 

this is all interesting...makes me want to do it

 

Ok so I have been doing this what you guys on here call "spaghetti wiring" for the last two years on my 94' prelude which has tons of mods, especially electrical. I can't stress how much of a difference you will feel if you take my advice on this. This is all you have to do:

1). Buy Wire as much as you want but all you people who are getting 2,4, even 6 gauge wires leave the big wires for the big amplifiers and them only (P.S. and they only have 1 ground wire so chill!!!) I recommend no bigger than 8 but really dont go any smaller than a 12
a). Silver Wire- Is best for flow of current but not strong in heat
b). Copper Wire- Best wire for any wire near the engine, exhaust, any place that gets quite hot. It can withstand the heat more-so than the silver type wires.

What I Used: BOTH!!! For such wires like battery to chasis or chasis to injector resistor box I used the SILVER TYPE WIRING. For valve cover, throttle body, alternator, distributor, cam shaft hold down's, head, block, tranny, ignitor, etc-hot... I only ran COPPER WIRES to and from those points. TRUST ME WIRING KITS WON'T GIVE YOU THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS JUST LOOKS.

CONNECTORS:
Try to use the same method as you did in the wiring portion after all once the wires are crimped, soldered, whatever... to the connectors; the wires are now inturn whatever the connector to the bot, stud, nut, etc... are!!!

For Best Connection use soldering iron, then tape, than heat shrink the tape but as long as that connector is on that wire to with all your force it isn't coming off than trust me it, well...isn't coming off! (I just pre-do every wire after measuring exactly then split the rubber covering off the wire enough to where the cover sits just inside the connector; then I take a hammer and carefully but powerfully hammer that connector with the wire inside where i want it, right on the ground and trust me you can pull that connector off without taking the wire with it).

RESULTS AND WHAT YOU WANT IN YOUR GROUNDING/"SPAGHETTI" SYSTEM:

1). Chasis- By hooking a wire to the chasis you are simply making sound better, smoother, quieter, (EXAMPLE: for electronics like speakers, subs, tv's, equalizers, navigation systems, they will sound crisper, stronger, louder, much better and for the tv's, nav systems a little to a lot clearer. Depending on how well you do this wire will determine how well a lot of your sensors perform and how fast they react, it will brighten not just headlights but all lights on vehicl when used.) VERY IMPORTANT WIRE(s)

2). Throttle Body- By hooking a wire to this part of your car you can increase your idle so that it is more steady. You can cause better air travel which in turn means what?? MORE HP!!! Now for all you KNOW IT ALL's out there im going to explain how in turn this can happen.
Now by just hooking a wire up to this part of the car WILL NOT gain you power throughout your engine, but by making a chain of wires "SPAGHETTI" that are short and in the right sequence will make you power and that is a promise; especially at low end for all you top end guys out there who want a little pep in the beginning and can't figure out how to get it without being a low end power car this is one of a few helpful little things that are crucial in keeping your top end power and yet getting off the line like a vette.
What happens is when you hook this wire up to the throttle body, in-turn the sensors that are missing the emff! they desire or didn't have to begin with; to really be a factor, are now getting that overall electric flow they desire so they will pick up what their job is and do it quicker which in turn say you run that wire from the throttle body to the distributor, injector resistor box, and then to the chasis; you are in-turn doing what completing most of the combustion process of the engine just with wires. HERES THE TRICKY PART; if you use too much wire or do a full triangle right there, well consider yourself done cuz that "SPAGHETTI" circuit won't stretch as far as some people are telling you all. In all reality Im reading where people say are engines aren't that big and we shouldn't worry about too many connections! WRONG!!! you will have some problems you didn't know you had or even lose power and voltage by having to many connections, to big of wire, or too long of wire. So when your doing this keep that in mind and I Will explain roughly what you can do to limit all those things.

3).Engine Head- Good for center point of stability for all other connections Have you ever noticed that your car had a ground wire running from the valve cover to the chasis when you first got the car??? Go ahead and make a new one of those wires so that its the same size wire but try to make it shorter and clean/sand the spots of connectivity. EVER WONDER WHY HONDA decided to choose that spot for grounding...? Well basically think about it in two ways
Its the end to the "SPAGHETTI CIRCUIT" battery-chasis, then, battery to block/tranny, then no wire from the block to that valve cover ground WELL DUH!!! maybe its because the Tranny bolts to the block, and the block bolts to the head and then right after that the valve cover bolts on to the... you guessed it HEAD. Right after that the ground wire from the valve cover goes directly but closely to the chasis. Which inturn completes the circuit of grounds and Connects all VERY IMPORTANT PARTS just not directly which is the only reason the aftermarket kits came out. so even Honda uses the SPAGHETTI CIRCUIT which is actually a complete grounding circuit so now i can finally stop using that crappy term and tell all the people who are calling it that there wrong, as long as whoever did it, did it correctly.

4).Engine Block/Tranny- Don't make another ground cable and put it on the engine block you will kill your power this way also could kill battery. The cable that came stock; as long as you check and make sure its well connected, and metal on metal this cable is a very large cable and doesn't need anymore help especially if you plan to connect other grounds to other places, that huge wire can handle the bottom end of the car aswell as most the power handling in it self. DO NOT MAKE A LARGER GAUGE WIRE FOR THE BATTERY-ENGINE BLOCK CONNECTION THAN CAME STOCK.

5). Injector Resistor/Distributor/Cam Hold Down Bolts/Spark Plugs/- If your honda is ticking a lot in the valves but aren't bent or if you advanced your timing or maybe your injectors are just loud like most hondas are. I would reccomend running this connection to the second chasis point which I will explain later. Also if you want the ground connection you made for your throttle body, distributor, ignition coil, camshafts, spark plugs, whatever moves at the rate of the engines timing that you connected you better figure out how to connect all of them in a small wire usage circular circuit with only two chasis grounds one on each side of the engine.

6). Alternator - TORQUE Tighten one to this point and expect a torquier engine but expect your volts too hold very well as well. Basic Rule of thumb make sure the feeder is well fed and the feeder will keep everyone else fat!!! WHAT AM I SAYING YOU ASK?? Give the Alternator the power it desires from the ground and trust me it will replenish with power both mechanically (evan more if your circuit is really good and includes the majority of what is listed) and electronically because it feeds the heart of your car(engine) the power it needs to complete each and every one of its cycles of combustion. VERY IMPORTANT FOR RESULTS

INSTALLATION GUIDE AND HINTS:
What I Dit "Chasis To Battery(silver wire 8G)" "Battery To Block(copper wire 2G)" Battery To Distributor Cam Hold Down Inner Bolt(copper wire 8G)" "Distributor Cam Hold Down Inner Bolt To Ignitor Unit Cam Hold Down Inner Bolt(copper wire 8G)" "Ignitor Unit Cam Hold Down Inner Bolt To Middle Bolt On Top Piece Of Intake Manifold Pleneum(copper wire 8G)" Middle Bolt On Top Piece Of Intake Manifold Pleneum To Stock Valve Cover Ground Bolt(copper wire 8G)" "Stock Valve Cover Ground Bolt To Alternator(copper wire 8G)" "Stock Valve Cover Ground Bolt/Alternator Ground Bolt/Throttle Body Ground Bolt Then Went To The Chasis(silver wire 8G)" Then I Ran the Injector Resistor Ground Wire To That Chasis Ground Bolt(silver wire 8G). For All Wires Running To Chasis, as well as the wire running from the Alternator I ran 16 gauge wire of the same length as the 8 gauge wire to the chasis bolts in silver wiring type(reason is because the thin wire is good for high amperage, where as thicker wiring is good for voltage, and since the chasis's main reasoning is for running the electronics smoother and crisper amperage is the way those units are ran not voltage; end result a complete circuit that has everything directly connected for with the least amount of wiring used but still enough wiring used to where if I would have used a thicker gauge wire the current wouldnt be able to travel through the entire circuit in time because of all the "Negative Resistance" being placed on the Positive Terminal which is why you can lose power.

So There You Have it!!! Grounding Systems 101, but don't worry you won't get it perfect the first try but keep trying because it will make a difference in all the things you want it to. If anyone tries to tell you different well you can take it from a guy who has re-wired his entire car when Honda said they couldn't do it and on the first crank it instantaneously started or you can believe that other guy who probably couldnt change his own oil. HOPE THIS HELPS YA'LL I'm going to bed now, later

 

I just got a kit myself with a voltage stabilzer for my 5th Gen Prelude. I ended up having 7 cables, not sure if I need that much for it. Can someone show me how to connect it with the Voltage Stabilzer as well?

 

PoloBoy,

The postings states that you used 8 guage wire on every connection except the Battery To Block where you used 2 gauge. Then it states, "No bigger than 8 but really dont go any smaller than a 12" but 2 is bigger than 8

Then it states, " For All Wires Running To Chasis, as well as the wire running from the Alternator I ran 16 gauge wire" but it also states that you did not go smaller than 12.

I am confused.

Kevin

 

There are a lot of explanations at this link.

Search for "Grounding Mod"

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/search.php?do=process