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loctite or anti-seize on exhaust, spring kit?

Old Apr 19, 2003 | 08:06 AM
  #1  
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PHiZ
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From: NL CT
Default loctite or anti-seize on exhaust, spring kit?

Does anyone reccomend the use of either loctite or anti-seize on the exhaust.

I want to pull apart my header back setup, when I do the motor swap. So, I don't want the bolts seizing. But with all the vibration, and heat/cooling expansion/contraction, I don't want it coming apart either.

Final question, the spring kits between the header and the cat, are they mandatory? I believe it is a flex point, for the exhaust, to obviate problems.

-PHiZ
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Old Apr 19, 2003 | 08:30 PM
  #2  
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anti seize will do fine, as long as you use the recomended torque spec.s the nuts/bolts wont back out, you are recomended to re torque exh. studs after getting engine to op temp, the lock tite would be bad, due to the heating and cooling, like you stated, there going to be a pain to get off next time anyway, and on the spring bolts your right again, that is a flex point that compensates for the engine torqueing and twising, from cat back is suposed to remain relatively still but the header is distributing the torque to the cat and without those springs it could crack or break the header to cat flange. fyi.. i have an aftermarket high flow cat that is a little shorter than stock(1/8" shorter) and i had to tighten the crap out of it to pull the gap together which in turn collapsaed the springs, in turn while i was pulling my motor out for swap last week i found the rear braket for header(beside oil filter) was cracked, possibly from our little spring discusion
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Old Apr 20, 2003 | 07:49 AM
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PHiZ
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Hey thanks. We did the job last night, replace the cat, and installed a cat back.

the old cat was welded on, so we had to sawzall the pipe there off, and then grinder it down flat.

the spring kit just would NOT accomodate my after maket cat, so it is bolted on direct right now, after a couple of day, I'm going to get back under there, and install the "donut" thing, and the spring set, with some much longer stainless bolts.

I used high-temp RTV on all the flanges to suppliment the gaskets, and rtv on the bolts, which should prevent seizing, AND backing off.

I'd really like to see some pics of the joint between the cat and header... we just had to guess.

Thanks
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 06:24 PM
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Antiseize, high temp variety, definitely.

All of the Loctite stuff is cyanoacrylate (variants on what you will find in a superglue tube), and it breaks down above about 300F/130C. Simple chemistry.

Antiseize is a metal paste; some of it will stay viable at ten times the temp that kills threadlocker compounds.
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Old Apr 26, 2003 | 12:42 PM
  #5  
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hey, if you need longer bolts for the cat to the header part with the springs in between, let me know. i have a set of used ones from my friends car. PM me if you are interested.

Originally posted by PHiZ
Hey thanks. We did the job last night, replace the cat, and installed a cat back.

the old cat was welded on, so we had to sawzall the pipe there off, and then grinder it down flat.

the spring kit just would NOT accomodate my after maket cat, so it is bolted on direct right now, after a couple of day, I'm going to get back under there, and install the "donut" thing, and the spring set, with some much longer stainless bolts.

I used high-temp RTV on all the flanges to suppliment the gaskets, and rtv on the bolts, which should prevent seizing, AND backing off.

I'd really like to see some pics of the joint between the cat and header... we just had to guess.

Thanks
Reply



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