haha. yeah, i was just messing with ya. I'm pretty sure this writeup will never be finished. But the rest is pretty self-explanatory if you've done any LED installs before.

 

LoL
Man, why even bother postin a diy if your just going to stop half way and not finish.

 

What in the world...I thought I posted the whole thing. Sorry buys, I've been carried away with my military life and my two 240SX's and I am finally getting around this. I did finish posting this on every other sites that I posted it on..but i guess i lacked on this one. here is the rest. exact copy and paste from my other writeup's.

Step 7.

try not to touch the display area of the gauge, finger oil = no good. nasty looking.


Step 8.

the green blocks indicated on the picture is the amount of space we have for this project, and

agian, this varies for each application.


Step 9.

back of the speedo incase some of you are wondering..
To explain bit more on the shades behind the gauges...black/dark spots are where the bulbs lie

to light up your gauge.


Step 10.

More refenrence for your future work. as captioned on the picture, some empty portals for your

wires to go through, if you can't find any, drill a whole on side of the gauge cluster if you

aren't a wuss.


Step 11.

make your measuring...and cut the bord according to your measurements.


Step 12.

Yess.....

Step 13.

put out a piece of the PC bord to make a socket connection like you would have from your OEM

bulb. PC bord just happends to have about same thickness for this app, acclent.


Step 14.

Trim the little piece, and test fit it. it will be a tight fit, but that just means more secure

connection.


Step 15.

Making a connection..I hope my MS-Paint work explained it well enough.
basically, you are making a replica of your OEM bulb to make a connection


Step 16.

test fit it agian...this will be harder to fit into before you wired up the wires.
so you don't have to worry about "what if the wire connection gets loose" situation.


Step 17.

Fun of this DIY..soldering!
and agian, it's entirely up to you to make decision how to wire up your circutes.
just remember agian that each LED should have resistor for it's own. not sharing one resistor in

a serise. I used 3 leds, so I also used 3 resistors.


Step 18.

solder..solder..solder..ooh..solder..the smell of that rasin..ooh...yuck!

Step 19.

the wire legs from the resistor go from red box to pink box. thus making the resistor's legs

appear back on top of the circute bord.


Step 20.

the other side of resistor's legs went to the positive side of the LED to make a connection, and

that's what the green boxes represent. and the wires that are not soldered are the negative leg

from the LED's.


Step 21.

Top side of the circute bord completed.
Note: positive legs of LED should have it's own power, but the negative side, can all be joined

together. it's only a ground.


Step 22.

test it out! I used a phone charger[your ordinary house wireless phone charger, they are

usually 9v, but read the specs on the adapter to be sure.]. so the lights will be brighter once

it's hooked up to the cluster's 12V power source.

Step 23.

test fit your work. and mount the bord with hot glue. I LOVE HOT GLUE!!!!


Step 24.

Be amazed..not amazed, but proud of your work. Don't mind the blue-ish look, it's just how

cam's work, but the middle big white one should be a good reference.




ok, last step is to put everything back together just like you took it apart.
remember to test out your lights before making a final assembly. I do not know which side is

positive or negative, so you are going to have to figure that out on your own. it shouldn't

matter if it was your ordinary OEM helogen bulbs, but LED's only work when the current flow are

correct.

Ok, how was this DIY? Easy? Hard? rate it. 1 being worst, 10 being perfect.

Please give me feed back on this. and correct me if anything is wrong.



Happy DIY, mad-ass/hoyoung02