Clutch creaks when depressed (from outside) - Easy Fix?
Originally posted by Yell-OH ITR
dont think its losing pressure or fluid...just creaks.
ill check it out. that means rick will be needing his motiv bleeder out of the cabinet soon
dont think its losing pressure or fluid...just creaks.
ill check it out. that means rick will be needing his motiv bleeder out of the cabinet soon
__________________
'00 Dakar Bus CRS Edition
LCD Squad #0001
'00 Dakar Bus CRS Edition
LCD Squad #0001
Originally Posted by WiLL
...I really wanna get out and shoot people.
Originally posted by Nightshade
Well the slave comes through the firewall a little bit and there is a seal there that sometimes goes bad on it.....check for any leaking fluid in the passenger compartment side of the firewall where the clutch pedal is.
Its a first clue the seal may have given out or is beginning to give out and it is fairly easy to replace...couple bolts and a $1.00 part or so.
Also the plunger itself has rubber gaskets around it which may be getting worn.
Slave cylinders really arent that tough to rebuild as long as you have the Haynes manual and the right tools.
Well the slave comes through the firewall a little bit and there is a seal there that sometimes goes bad on it.....check for any leaking fluid in the passenger compartment side of the firewall where the clutch pedal is.
Its a first clue the seal may have given out or is beginning to give out and it is fairly easy to replace...couple bolts and a $1.00 part or so.
Also the plunger itself has rubber gaskets around it which may be getting worn.
Slave cylinders really arent that tough to rebuild as long as you have the Haynes manual and the right tools.
I've never had a noisy master cylinder either. Those usually only leak.
Forget rebuilding a slave cylinder, just replace it. They're under $30 at just about any auto parts store. $16 if you have a BAP-GEON near where you live. It's almost the only easily-serviceable part downstream of the master cylinder.
If the clutch fork is worn where the slave bolts up to actuate the fork, hit it with some 320 grit sandpaper sandpaper to clean it up, and lube it with silicone grease or that blue anti-squeal stuff for brakes.
If the part still squeaks, then you'll have to either...
A: pull the tranny to replace the pivot ball and fork
B: just learn to live with the squeak.
The fork and pivot ball are about $20, but getting to them isn't easy. They could last forever like that. They'll at least last you until your next clutch job. The pivot ball and fork are a lot easier and cheaper to replace during a clutch job.
Other clutch squeaks:
Another place that creaks is the clutch-master cylinder's actuator rod (connects to the clutch pedal assembly). There's a plastic bushing that eventually wears out and then it starts rubbing metal-metal. That's what squeaks inside the car. Usually this only happens to cars with upgraded clutch-pressure plates, or cars with a bazillion miles on them.
:rant: :rant: :rant: :rant:
Honda dealers here sell those plastic washers for about $60, and they can get them to you in only 3-4 weeks. I could weld a real bearing in there for less $ than that.
Thanks, Honda! :madfawk: Sure helps out us little guys...
Forget rebuilding a slave cylinder, just replace it. They're under $30 at just about any auto parts store. $16 if you have a BAP-GEON near where you live. It's almost the only easily-serviceable part downstream of the master cylinder.
If the clutch fork is worn where the slave bolts up to actuate the fork, hit it with some 320 grit sandpaper sandpaper to clean it up, and lube it with silicone grease or that blue anti-squeal stuff for brakes.
If the part still squeaks, then you'll have to either...
A: pull the tranny to replace the pivot ball and fork
B: just learn to live with the squeak.
The fork and pivot ball are about $20, but getting to them isn't easy. They could last forever like that. They'll at least last you until your next clutch job. The pivot ball and fork are a lot easier and cheaper to replace during a clutch job.
Other clutch squeaks:
Another place that creaks is the clutch-master cylinder's actuator rod (connects to the clutch pedal assembly). There's a plastic bushing that eventually wears out and then it starts rubbing metal-metal. That's what squeaks inside the car. Usually this only happens to cars with upgraded clutch-pressure plates, or cars with a bazillion miles on them.
:rant: :rant: :rant: :rant:
Honda dealers here sell those plastic washers for about $60, and they can get them to you in only 3-4 weeks. I could weld a real bearing in there for less $ than that.
Thanks, Honda! :madfawk: Sure helps out us little guys...
throwout bearing is bad. my car did the same. put a new clutch on and changed the throwout bearing and it stopped. then i was selling the car. so i put the old shit back on and it started again


