Darkshadow29

Hello,

I havea 90 CRX, and about 2 months ago, It started to act like the fuel pumps was going out. I would be driving along all was good, then when I came to a stop sign or light, it would try to die or would. So I changed the pump and fuel filter. it started to run fine for about 2 days, then started up again, and then it started to get to where it would run for about 25 miles then would die. and would have to restart it and it would run for 18 miles or so and do the same (this isnt exactly how far it would go). And it was getting shorter and shorter distance befoer dieing, and each time get harder and harder to start, until it would just not start.
So I changed the Plug & wires, cap and bug, and coil. Still nothing, got to the end of the block. So, pulled the tank out checked the Pump, it was still good. but the main relay was bad so changed it out. nothing, so cheched the wires from the pump to under the seat, not so go, so I ran new wire. Now, Bam it worked fine, that was for about 75 miles or so and then it started doing what it did before where it get shorter distance and harder to start.
I just dont know what else to look at. I have put 900 dollars into this and blindly hoped I could hit what was worng over the last 2 months. And I cant afford that anymore. I am on disablity. I need a car so my wife can get to work, and the only place that is in the area that will work on it wants 400 dollars just to run a car diag on it. Then to charge to work on it. I am scared that if I do that what ever it is will cost awhole lot, or still will not fix it. And its money I could be saving for a car.
If anyone could give me an idea or knows what it is, plz help me. I dont mind trying to fix it but would like to do it with out losing my shirt over( ). But if not I guess I will try to sell it for something, maybe someone will want it for scrap or to tinker with.

Thank you for your help and info.
Darkshadow29

Edit: Also it dies or almost dies when I do take it out and come to a stop now. It seems like its not getting enough gas or to much and its being flooded out. But I dont know if that is it. I am not car smart. I could work on a 74 but 90 and all the new stuff in it, just not sure.

ChrisS

On another thread, someone mentioned cleaning the thermostat grounding point (where the ECU grounds to the engine) as a possible fix. (it also never hurts to look at and clean all the engine grounds)

What ECU codes are displayed when this problem occurs?
(the ECU is under the carpet where your passenger's feet go, count the LED blinks)

Darkshadow29

Didnt know about the led on the passanger side, I will go later and find it. I will also look at the grounding area, Have to find where it is exactly.

As far as the led goes, do i start it up run it until it dies and watch the led to see how many times it blinks? Also is it more under the dash or is it more under the carpet where close to the seat?

Darkshadow29

ok just found it, and when i turn the key over it just blinks once! but i have had the - battary cable off awhile yesterday. but I took it out for a test drive and it died 8 or so time in 2 blocks. And the battery has been hooked up since. so Thats what I know as of now
Darkshadow29

ChrisS

Does the Check Engine Light come on when your problem occurs?
If it does, count the ECU LED blinks.
http://www.geocities.com/chipman_13/ecu.html

The initial check to make sure the ECU is working correctly:
-car is off
-turn key to "ON" (but, _not_ to Start)
Check Engine Light should come on then go out a few seconds latter.
If the Check Engine Light didn't light up, there could be a problem with the ECU.

Darkshadow29

The initial check to make sure the ECU is working correctly:
-car is off
-turn key to "ON" (but, _not_ to Start)
Check Engine Light should come on then go out a few seconds latter.
This is what happens when I just turn the key over but not start the car.

So, I took the car out again, when it died, the Check Engine light did not come on, just the oil and battary light came on. Just died after I ran it to the end of the block and put on the brake to come to a stop. ANd the ECU didnt blink at all. other then when I turn the car to the on but without starting, it blinked once. But this time after I got it to the end of the block and it died when I would put it in reverse it wouldnt want to stay running. Now, Am I off to think it could be bad fuel Injectors? ANd is there away to test them outside the car to see if they need to be replaced? Or is there something else I should be looking at?
Darkshadow29

Darkshadow29

Bump

A-series

When it dies, does it take longer than normal to start back up? Does it crank right over and start like normal, or does it crank longer before firing up?
If it only stalls when you come to a stop, never while driving w/ the revs above idle, than that should rule out the ignition switch.

The issue with it "almost stalling" when you come to a stop could be several things, especially if it's an auto trans. Sounds almost like your EACV (a.k.a. IACV) isn't working, as if it's unplugged. That may have nothing to do with it, but you'd get similar results with a low idle and inability to keep itself from stalling if you unplugged the EACV.

I'm no mechanic, but if I was in your situation, I'd try running some injector cleaner (I'll assume you've already made sure the air filter isn't insanely clogged) as it's cheap and couldn't hurt. Most products of that sort will also remove water from the gas if there was any in the tank.

Darkshadow29

YEah it turns right over once it dies. But if it keeps died over and over and over then it get harder sometimes. But if i start it and just leave it running in the drive way its fine, will set and idle for along time. but when I put it into drive and push the gas it takes off, but once I take my foot off the gas and hit the brake it dies. Now if I let it back down on its own and not hit the brakes it will stay running until I stop and the motor comes back to an idle. but then but it in nutrel or park and it fires right back up.

As far as the fuel injector cleaner, got some today and going to put it in and let it idle for awhile with it and shut it down let it cool, then start it up again and take it for a drive and see if it is fixed.

I will look at the other thing you talked about too, need to find it in the Chilton book, see where it is and if there is away to test it.

Thanks for all the help so far. if anyone has more info I would appreciate it.

ChrisS

Brakes use vacuum assist.
Look at vacuum hoses and sensors that use vacuum.
(usually on the intake manifold)

How do your brakes feel?

How did the engine grounding points checkout?
(this could be electrical, also check the transmission solenoid and its connection.)

What's the automatic transmission fluid level?