The rule of thumb is for each 1" of drop the Camber will go negative by 0.75 degrees from wherever it was originally. As to setting Camber at some value other than 0.0-most of the cars I have owned (including the 3 Hondas) were at -0.2 or more negative, but never as much as -1. This is not the best choice for daily or open road driving up front in particular. The rear can be closer to -1 (I'm around -0.6).

 

i have NEVER seen a car come off the lot with 0 camber in the rear.

 

Zero camber can lead to a lot of tire roll-over, which is not good for handling other than in a straight line [which is really just more rolling resistance].

4 wheel alignments can be done using nothing more than a good measuring method and a known centerline of the car [or measured since the unibody is nearly symmetrical anyways]. I'm not saying that this will give you the most exact results, BUT, it will get you close enough that unless you just want the computer print-out telling you exactly what your before and after setups are/were, then you won't be able to tell much difference.

I've been doing car setups for over half of my life, and not once have I worked with a team that had to break out a set of lasers to make an alignment change to suit a given track...

 

damn, i thought i was gonna be getting a lecture.

 

I rather pay $70 than have to do Math.

 

that sounds like an american...

 

haha agreed

so right now my tires ar both sittin toe in in the front so all i should have to do is tighten up the tie rods slightly on each side and i should be fine

thanx guys

 

well, youre going to **** up the tires if you "just" do anything with an alignment. you really should have it done, i just proposed you _could_ do it yourself, it takes a lot of patience.