theleprechaun

I just finished swapping my old broke down D16a6 for my newer D16a (longblock) in my 90 CRX-Si

Used Pieces
Exhaust, Complete Intake, M/T, Engine mounts, Radiator, Alternator, Distributor, and air filter from the old engine

Clutch Plate, Clutch Pressure Plate, Flywheel Cover, and Starter from old Transmission (I ordered a new clutch plate and pressure plate but recieved the wrong ones then spent 4 1/2 hours trying to align the engine with the transmission and nearly drove myself crazy till I dry fit them outside the compartment and found the issue)

New Pieces
O2 sensor, thermo sensor (side and back), thermostat and gasket, spark plug wires, spark plugs, radiator hoses (top and bottom, including heater hoses) Oil Filter, Flywheel, Alternator belt, +/- and Ground Cables, Cooling Fan Switch, Throw out bearing, Intake/Exhaust Gasket, and Fluids

Total Cost (With Engine Hoist rental (60.00)
790.00
-Long Block D16A (Block, Head, Timing Belt, H20 Pump, Oil Pan, Oil Pump)
-Clutch Kit (Throw Out Bearing, Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate, Flywheel Bearing, Alignment Tool)
-Shipping CA to AZ

360.00
-Sensors, Gaskets, Thermostat, Hoses, Plugs and Wires, Fluids Filters, Flywheel and bolts, Belts, Cables, Fluids and Hoist (All listed above)

1100.00
+100.00 (Honda Service tuning and diagnostic test, still got to do this)
1200.00 Rebuild

It starts, no codes or warning lights, but my Idle speed climbs to 2.8k RPM in about 5 secs after starting the engine...
Any Ideas? (Maybe Intake gasket leak???)

Also

The only Piece not on the car is the Crankshaft Pulley (Turns the alternator and A/C Belts) I couldn't get it off the old block b4 pulling it and now I found it too be too difficult to remove new one is 170.00, is it safe to start and move the car for testing with a fully charged battery or will that damage anything? I know without the alternator connected the car won't charge the battery. (Got it off and on again)

Also

I noticed a small amount of oil smoke by the exhaust manifold could this be a leak or just prints and grease burning off the outside? It happens after idleing (at 2.8k) for a minute or so. (just residue burning off, it stopped)

theleprechaun

Seeing as the old block ect. was burned up and had 270000 miles + I tore it apart by every means neccessery and removed the crankshaft with the pulley attached (tore off lower timing cover with pliers/brute force, pried free the outer plate right behind the crank pulley then pounded through the 2 pegs holding it together then removed every bolt and knocked the pistons out finally extracting the pulley/shaft) (not the best idea but it worked)

Finally placing the whole shaft in a large 40 year old farm vise and then hung off a 7 1/2 foot pry bar on the end of a 1/2 socket wrench

POP

boom one crankshaft pulley

Anyone have any ideas on my Idle Issues? I'm taking it into the dealership and having a tune up/ inspection done for 100.00 but I would prefer to have it at the correct idle b4 driving it the 7 miles to the shop.

theleprechaun

Maybe my...
TPS, Fast Idle Control, or my Evac? Also possible I have a leak around the intake gasket (my hope) Any Input is appreciated. I'm so dang close to gettin this car on the road again!

theleprechaun

Okay I had to reconnect a disconnected vacuum line off the back of the intake manifold which lowered the idle to 1.8k.
Then I had to turn my degrading idle adjustment screw clockwise which lowered the idle to 1.1k + or - .5k rpms (.6 - 1.6)

HOWEVER!!!!

5 hours later I parked at work and when I got done there 9 hours later (and 40 degrees colder) I attempted to start the car only to find it wouldn't fire over even though it will crank. I assume this is a fuel system issue, possibly a faulty fuel pump, or maybe the regulator. This is an issue that followed over from the previous engine. I also assume this means it is not a problem with the engine block or headgasket, ANY IDEAS NEONE???