Need turbo set up help
I have a 1989 Honda CRX HF. It has a d16a1 Acura integra dohc 1.6 j-spec (zc) engine. I want to turbo it.
The mods it already has are.....
Cold air intake
jun 4-1 header
mugen twin loop muffler
255lph walbro fuel pump
adjustable fuel pressure reg. up to 120psi
Ok this is my question..... If I put a stage 2 t3/t4 turbo with intercooler kit on and keep the stock injectors, fuel rail and unchipped pg7 ecu untill I can afford it Will it be ok? I mean it shouldn't hurt anything should it? untill I can afford the injectors, rail, and chip?
The mods it already has are.....
Cold air intake
jun 4-1 header
mugen twin loop muffler
255lph walbro fuel pump
adjustable fuel pressure reg. up to 120psi
Ok this is my question..... If I put a stage 2 t3/t4 turbo with intercooler kit on and keep the stock injectors, fuel rail and unchipped pg7 ecu untill I can afford it Will it be ok? I mean it shouldn't hurt anything should it? untill I can afford the injectors, rail, and chip?
bad idea, your stock injectors won't be able to handle the turbo they will be maxed out, save up enough to get real engine management, then go turbo, if you have shitty fuel management u A won't make much power, B. you have a much larger chance of blowing your motor... do it right or don't do it at alll.
and do a lot more research...
and do a lot more research...
This is how you do a turbo setup:
Buy the electronics for your engine management.
Build the block to accept boost (lower comp pistons, fuel system, ect.)
And last but not least, buy the manifold, gaskets, pipes, oil lines, ...
Dont buy the turbo first.
Also do more research.
Buy the electronics for your engine management.
Build the block to accept boost (lower comp pistons, fuel system, ect.)
And last but not least, buy the manifold, gaskets, pipes, oil lines, ...
Dont buy the turbo first.
Also do more research.
yay people can take turbo set ups from one extreme to another..either thinking they have to have a "bullet proof" motor or can just slap a turbo on their current set up...i have been looking into turbo setups for about a year and the most helpful source had been Geoff Raicer co-founder/co-owner of Full Race and for my 300whp/12 sec 1/4 mile goal this is what he recommended(for a b16a2):
The stage 1 a/c kit works incredibly well for almost every application,
particularly the B16A. This kit will easily make it into the deep 12 sec
range and be completely reliable.
You definitely do not need to sleeve the block, you should never use a block
guard, and you definitely do not need forged internals.
The setup I recommend is:
Full Race Stage 1 Prostreet A/C Kit which includes:
Includes:
-Full-Race AC Manifold
-Full-Race 3" 4-bolt Downpipe
-Full-Race Intercooler 22"x8"x3"
-Full-Race T3/T04E Turbo
-Tial 38mm Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Full-Race Custom 2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
-Full-Race Oil Line Kit
-Full-Race Vacuum Line Kit
-Full-Race Hardware Kit
-Full-Race Gasket Kit
-Full-Race Silicon Coupler Kit
-Full-Race Hose Clamp Kit

in addition this is what else he said i would need:
Hondata or Neptune tunning system
Walbro 255 high pressure intank pump
RC 750cc high impedance injectors
ITR cams and ITR intake manifold
Stock fuel rail, stock fuel pressure regulator, stock fuel filter
Stock distributor, stock ignition
Stock bottom end
Stock Honda Head gasket or Cometic Thick gasket to lower compression
ARP Head studs
Competition Clutch stage 4
he also told me in his opinion/experience you really dont NEED forged internals unless your making more than 350whp on pump gas or 400whp on race gas..so your making less than that stock internals should be sufficient w/ a proper setup and tune..he and so many others have made it VERY clear that the TUNE can MAKE OR BREAK your setup so get a good program and tuner
alot of people talk trash about Full Race cuz they are pricey but you get what you pay for..not only paying for the actual product but customer service and extensive product R&D...so i think its worth paying a little extra
The stage 1 a/c kit works incredibly well for almost every application,
particularly the B16A. This kit will easily make it into the deep 12 sec
range and be completely reliable.
You definitely do not need to sleeve the block, you should never use a block
guard, and you definitely do not need forged internals.
The setup I recommend is:
Full Race Stage 1 Prostreet A/C Kit which includes:
Includes:
-Full-Race AC Manifold
-Full-Race 3" 4-bolt Downpipe
-Full-Race Intercooler 22"x8"x3"
-Full-Race T3/T04E Turbo
-Tial 38mm Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Full-Race Custom 2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
-Full-Race Oil Line Kit
-Full-Race Vacuum Line Kit
-Full-Race Hardware Kit
-Full-Race Gasket Kit
-Full-Race Silicon Coupler Kit
-Full-Race Hose Clamp Kit

in addition this is what else he said i would need:
Hondata or Neptune tunning system
Walbro 255 high pressure intank pump
RC 750cc high impedance injectors
ITR cams and ITR intake manifold
Stock fuel rail, stock fuel pressure regulator, stock fuel filter
Stock distributor, stock ignition
Stock bottom end
Stock Honda Head gasket or Cometic Thick gasket to lower compression
ARP Head studs
Competition Clutch stage 4
he also told me in his opinion/experience you really dont NEED forged internals unless your making more than 350whp on pump gas or 400whp on race gas..so your making less than that stock internals should be sufficient w/ a proper setup and tune..he and so many others have made it VERY clear that the TUNE can MAKE OR BREAK your setup so get a good program and tuner
alot of people talk trash about Full Race cuz they are pricey but you get what you pay for..not only paying for the actual product but customer service and extensive product R&D...so i think its worth paying a little extra
yay people can take turbo set ups from one extreme to another..either thinking they have to have a "bullet proof" motor or can just slap a turbo on their current set up...i have been looking into turbo setups for about a year and the most helpful source had been Geoff Raicer co-founder/co-owner of Full Race and for my 300whp/12 sec 1/4 mile goal this is what he recommended(for a b16a2):
The stage 1 a/c kit works incredibly well for almost every application,
particularly the B16A. This kit will easily make it into the deep 12 sec
range and be completely reliable.
You definitely do not need to sleeve the block, you should never use a block
guard, and you definitely do not need forged internals.
The setup I recommend is:
Full Race Stage 1 Prostreet A/C Kit which includes:
Includes:
-Full-Race AC Manifold
-Full-Race 3" 4-bolt Downpipe
-Full-Race Intercooler 22"x8"x3"
-Full-Race T3/T04E Turbo
-Tial 38mm Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Full-Race Custom 2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
-Full-Race Oil Line Kit
-Full-Race Vacuum Line Kit
-Full-Race Hardware Kit
-Full-Race Gasket Kit
-Full-Race Silicon Coupler Kit
-Full-Race Hose Clamp Kit

in addition this is what else he said i would need:
Hondata or Neptune tunning system
Walbro 255 high pressure intank pump
RC 750cc high impedance injectors
ITR cams and ITR intake manifold
Stock fuel rail, stock fuel pressure regulator, stock fuel filter
Stock distributor, stock ignition
Stock bottom end
Stock Honda Head gasket or Cometic Thick gasket to lower compression
ARP Head studs
Competition Clutch stage 4
he also told me in his opinion/experience you really dont NEED forged internals unless your making more than 350whp on pump gas or 400whp on race gas..so your making less than that stock internals should be sufficient w/ a proper setup and tune..he and so many others have made it VERY clear that the TUNE can MAKE OR BREAK your setup so get a good program and tuner
alot of people talk trash about Full Race cuz they are pricey but you get what you pay for..not only paying for the actual product but customer service and extensive product R&D...so i think its worth paying a little extra
The stage 1 a/c kit works incredibly well for almost every application,
particularly the B16A. This kit will easily make it into the deep 12 sec
range and be completely reliable.
You definitely do not need to sleeve the block, you should never use a block
guard, and you definitely do not need forged internals.
The setup I recommend is:
Full Race Stage 1 Prostreet A/C Kit which includes:
Includes:
-Full-Race AC Manifold
-Full-Race 3" 4-bolt Downpipe
-Full-Race Intercooler 22"x8"x3"
-Full-Race T3/T04E Turbo
-Tial 38mm Wastegate
-Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve
-Full-Race Custom 2.5" Aluminum Intercooler Piping
-Full-Race Oil Line Kit
-Full-Race Vacuum Line Kit
-Full-Race Hardware Kit
-Full-Race Gasket Kit
-Full-Race Silicon Coupler Kit
-Full-Race Hose Clamp Kit

in addition this is what else he said i would need:
Hondata or Neptune tunning system
Walbro 255 high pressure intank pump
RC 750cc high impedance injectors
ITR cams and ITR intake manifold
Stock fuel rail, stock fuel pressure regulator, stock fuel filter
Stock distributor, stock ignition
Stock bottom end
Stock Honda Head gasket or Cometic Thick gasket to lower compression
ARP Head studs
Competition Clutch stage 4
he also told me in his opinion/experience you really dont NEED forged internals unless your making more than 350whp on pump gas or 400whp on race gas..so your making less than that stock internals should be sufficient w/ a proper setup and tune..he and so many others have made it VERY clear that the TUNE can MAKE OR BREAK your setup so get a good program and tuner
alot of people talk trash about Full Race cuz they are pricey but you get what you pay for..not only paying for the actual product but customer service and extensive product R&D...so i think its worth paying a little extra
im well aware of this thats why i said that he would need one for whatever motor he has whether it be a d/b/h/f/k series motor and full race has kits for all except f series motors..actually i guess that was another thread..but yay here is the link for the d series motor...and the d series motor is definately a underated motor and alot stronger than most think....i would keep a d series if i had it and boost it w/o question
www.full-race.com
www.full-race.com
Last edited by Mugenfreak; Nov 12, 2006 at 12:35 PM.
Ok so if I bought the kit pictured below.....
What else would I need to get to have a dependable, well tuned motor with stock internals? I know it may not be that dependable with stock internals.. But What would be a safe amount of boost for everyday drivin?
Let me know everything that this kit doesnt have that I will need and on the injectors what would be a good cc?

It comes with.......
Garrett T3/T4 TO4E Turbocharger
.50 STAGE iii WHEEL
GARRETT HYBRID
GARRETT INTERNALS
SUPER RACE TURBO MANIFOLD
STAINLESS 4 BOLT DOWNPIPE
Full set of TIG Welded Complete 2.5" charge piping.
WASTEGATE DUMPTUBE
SUPER 38MM WASTEGATE
SUPER RFL BOV
SUPER 680mm X 460mm X 180mm INTERCOOLER
And whatever else not mentioned seen in picture.
What else would I need to get to have a dependable, well tuned motor with stock internals? I know it may not be that dependable with stock internals.. But What would be a safe amount of boost for everyday drivin?
Let me know everything that this kit doesnt have that I will need and on the injectors what would be a good cc?

It comes with.......
Garrett T3/T4 TO4E Turbocharger
.50 STAGE iii WHEEL
GARRETT HYBRID
GARRETT INTERNALS
SUPER RACE TURBO MANIFOLD
STAINLESS 4 BOLT DOWNPIPE
Full set of TIG Welded Complete 2.5" charge piping.
WASTEGATE DUMPTUBE
SUPER 38MM WASTEGATE
SUPER RFL BOV
SUPER 680mm X 460mm X 180mm INTERCOOLER
And whatever else not mentioned seen in picture.
Last edited by THECRX; Nov 12, 2006 at 03:56 PM. Reason: This kit should be good for an extra 75-100 horsepower
oh dont buy the ebay special one. that stuff has bad reliability. ss auto, xs power, hxs,and those one arent as good as you might think. do some looking at what people have and if possibel buy all the parts seperatly and do some fabing


