Well, I am definitly running DRY timing, and it has been liek that for over a year now. SO.......

 

That's a lot of trouble. You'll then have to re bleed the whole brake system

dude you don't need to bleed the whole system. because you be pulling everything out.

 

Yeah... I had an '89 Civic (1500 with 4sp manual) and it's tight but it will come out the bottom driver's side. It helped me a lot to have the car up on jack stands and remove the driver's front wheel. This let the axle drop just enough to wiggle it out.

 

EXACTLY!:rockon:

 

I have to do this job this week! Maybe tomorrow! So, I'm very interested in this thread. I also wonder how it fits through the hole near the axle. What do you mean you 'let the axle drop just enough' to wiggle it out? So, you're pulling out the axle and then putting it back in again? Is there any way the alternator can fit through the gap/hole without pulling the axle out?

I've only looked at everything from the top but tomorrow I'll be taking a good look from underneath the car!

Btw, the car is a '90 Civic DX sedan.

 

no you do not have to pull the axle out you pull the wheel off and then the suspension will all drop along with axle nothing comes apart just goes down from the suspension extending. then just pull the alternator through the little hole should just come out

 

Exactly... it lets the lower control arm come down just enough to make it fit. Just don't get in a hurry....

This does bring back a bad memory though... when I tried to do mine.. I couldn't get the lower bolt off the alternator... finally got my cheater bar out and wound up rounding off the nut. Had to get my Dremel tool out and cut the thing off. In doing so, I nicked the AC belt so I had to replace that too... Wasn't exactly my favorite repair job on the Civic....

 

I also removed my brake cylinder. I had the alternator out in like 25 minutes without jacking my car up. You don't have to remove the lines from it, just carefully pull the master cylinder up and the lines will come with it, you might have to undo one off the clips off the firewall that hold the lines. This makes it extremely easy. Just unbolt the 2 12mm nuts that hold the master cylinder on the power booster and slide it forward to get it out of the power booster, then lift it up. Reach down and grab the alternator(which you shold have already taken loose) and pull it out.

 

As the original poster of the thread- I got it out. Took the master clyinder out. Should've tried just the mounting bolts, got to bleed the system. That included a new wheel cylinder since the bleeder valve was RUSTED and brokle right off. as well as the brake line dripped after touching it- rusted through too. JEEZE this northern climate sucks!

 

KD5dbl, are you talking about the alternator through bolt?!? The one at the bottom with the square head? Mine is so rusted that it won't come out. The other bolts and nuts came out but that one is stuck in there good. I will need a new one so I was wondering two things:
1) how to get the old one out
2) what the part # is. I will call the local honda dealer's parts dept. for that, I guess.

Does anyone know of any good website to obtain parts #s? The dealers use a Honda CD or something to obtain the info or "official" parts #s? Is there any way to know what the parts #s are? I was just curious. I can just call and ask for the actual part if I know the official name, I guess.